Pics of flooded heads what would you do?

I was told I could be taking a large chance of the springs braking.
It does not look like they have a cup under the springs to keep them from diging into the aluminum head must be a washer?

I've never seen any Hughes springs come in here that had'nt lost alot of pressure, in fact I just had to replace all 16 valves in a set of E heads that were in such bad float from the Hughes 1111 springs dying. Also they make you run some goofy shim for the inner spring if you are not running on a stock style J/X head that has a spring step on it, those shims were wearing & pumping metal out. I'll leave it at that since I don't want to start a pissing match.

The 987 Comp's are a little light on the seat for my liking. I'd probably put a set of 978-16 Comp's in it installed at 1.80", ~145 on seat, ~360 open.....use a Comp 741-16 moly 10 degree retainer, & a set of 611-16 Comp locks. Fresh valve job, & install new spring shims or do it right & machine the spring pockets & add a seat locator/cup. I'd use a 4704-16 Comp OD cup if it was me....

When they do the VJ, have the seats intentionally sunk .030" for flow & will help give more room for the thicker .060" locator.

Factory E heads come with single springs with a damper around 110 on seat 280 open, 7 degree retainers & stamped steel 7 degree locks, no cup/loctaor, just some unhardened spring shims under them. Usually a .030" & a .015" depending on how head was machined.

looks like longer than 7 days!

They were in plastic bags that had holes in them. it was just 7 days. When I called eddlebrock
They said the stock spring as set up new are good to .580 lift.
I was going just go back with what I had before unless it is a bad idea thus me asking here.
I have someone who took the whole factory set off his brand new never run, that I can get from him at a good price.

Take'em apart Scotch Brite the parts, clean up everything, reassemble. As long as No real bad pitting can be seen

Mostly worried that I am doing the right thing staying with the stock springs that came with them.Sincle I can just change them out for another set just like them.
And the seats being rusted,just looking in the holes the rust looks like it would clean off with ared scotch brite pad and oil.

What brand is the cam, ie I need to know how fast the ramp profile is, if it is a Hughes or something with a .904" Chrysler fast lobe on it I would not run the stock E head springs on it, they're just not up to the task pressure wise. Just because a spring can "handle" .580" lift does not mean it has enough pressure to deal with fast ramp speed or heavy valvetrain.

Stop being CHEAP!! Just send them out and stimulate the economy...

if they were mine, like others said, i would if anything get new springs/ retainers, and just scotbrite all the rust off the valves, and seats etc.

theyll be good as new

I'd have Ryan set you up with the right springs/retainers/locks and install height. You don't want to mess around with that stuff. Those are critical valve train components. Failure there could be catastrophic.

I called engle and eddlebrock both said the stock stuff would be ok! I wanted to check incase I was told wrong when this was done the first time! They both said it would be fine with the same thing I had before.
But was also almost at limit but the factory stuff supplied would be fine.
Someone like Ryan who see them when the new wears off so to say, would Know if they will hold up to the test of time. As he stated about the 1111 huges ones don't.I wonder how the stock ones supplied with the heads hold up?
I was planing on changing the whole mess{springs,locks and retainers.
Under the springs looks to be a brass or copper colored washers not cuped shape that is not rust and looks nothing like the ones listed here Spring Cups
One head looks to have no damage at all.

Listen to Ryan, pay now or pay later. DAMHIK.