Best Torsion bars for drag racing?

Planning on running 11:50-11:70 with my Demon.
It's an original "H" code 340 car with the heavier rate bars.
While I have the front end apart, would it be worthwhile to lighter rate bars in?
The slant 6 ones on standard a-bodies were the lightest I believe??
Does anyone have experience doing this change? Is it worthwhile?
What gains if any is there?

Thanks all,

Wally.

Bump
I'm wondering the same for my car. Mines a 408 pump gas dart that I'd like to get it to leave like a stocker.
Do the drag race bars make a big difference over v8 bars?

No IMO, using the slant 6 bars or even the lighter race bars makes the front end sloppy loose IMO. Use the standard bars you have and use adjustable front shocks. Much better option IMO. Take your front shocks completely off, and you will agree, no doubt.

Use the lightest spring you can to hold the car up.

Control the spring with the shocks.

I ran the stock A body 6 cylinder torsion on my pump gas BB stroker motor Duster, 1.42 60 ft. times on M/T ET Street 325x60x15 radial tires

I no you ask about a-body's , but I ran e-body's with the 8.50 bars with stock shocks ran 1.55-157 60'.

Now why in the heck would one take shocks off of a car???
I'm not the wisest when it comes to this game, that's why I ask questions such as which torsion bar is better, but I do know a good shock absorber is a must.

I run the 6 cylinder bars and let the shocks control the rate of extension. Been 1.240
Doug

I run the 6 cylinder bars and let the shocks control the rate of extension. Stock bump stops. Been 1.240
Doug

I run just a few tenths quicker. 11.30's in the heat and best of 11.19 with 1.54 60 ft. I use 6 cylinder bars with an RB and aluminum heads in an early B. I have a set of adjustables set to 90/10 and upper control arm bumper removed. The shock and bump stop removal made a world of difference!

6cyl bars do not make the front end feel sloppy. you are actually cranking them up tighter to achieve the same hight so they are storing more energy. the shock controls the sloppy feeling.

I could be wrong but I think the Mopar Performance torsion bars are even lighter than the six cylinder bars. I would agree with those that say to use the light bars and control with good shocks.
Bill

Firm Feel builds custom torsion bars for the NHRA guys so if you really want to experiment with bar rates just give them a call.

I ran the thinnest .810 iirc w/my 360 and they were good but add a BB and I went to the thicker .830 iirc w/great results...........1.33 60 foot brakin so far.............

I still have the factory 340 torsion bars in my cuda. Been 1.310 so far on drag radials footbraking running 8.90s.

I run the 318 bars but that's with an Aluminum headed big block.

I still use the factory bars on my 63 Sport Fury. It is an original 383 car with the 383 torsion bars still in it. I put the CE 90/10 front shocks on it up front and just use the longer MP shocks in the rear that have no adjustments with 3400 lb rated SS springs. All other suspension is stock and my best 60 is a 1.50. Ron

Having run A body stock eliminator cars for years, I ran the 6 cyl bars.83 in the beginning. When the .810 bars became available I ran those with a double adjustable shock. I am a many time NHRA record holder with 340 manual shift stockers running high 10's with a low compression 340. Use the smallest bar and a good shock. This works best if you have good rear suspension. Oh and remove or disconnect the sway bar at the track.