Spacing the K frame for hood clearance

I am looking for opinions on spacing the k-frame down on a 68 Charger in order to prevent the need for a hoodscoop. I believe that we would need to get about 1" of additional clearance and I have read about people spacing the K-frame but would like some opinions on it.

Thank you

1" isnt bad.. you can do it.. might end up
getting longer shocks

What does that do to steering geometry?
(If it's a strip-only car, you're probably not worried about corners)...

Check on the shocks, Thanks. I wonder how far is too far when spacing? Is there a point where things go bad? Don't want the thing looking like a gasser just wondering in case we need a little more than 1"

I too have heard of it being done but have never done it. I can see maybe an 1/8" or so but I can't see an 1". The torsion bars would be bowing down, and the steering column doesn't have near enough adjustment for something that far. Not to mention what it has done to the transmission angle and the trans mount being twisted nose down. I'd also imagine finding the correct thread of the K frame bolt an inch longer may be difficult. I think I would be looking for another alternative...

I'm a bit different.. I try to get my cars
lower most of the time.. and I lower the engine
so to me 1" looks like a fair amount... maybe
1 1/2" at max if this is a strip car

No one said that all he would have to do.. but
thats why I lower the engine and make sure the
trans is pointed right at the pinion

I would look at lowering the engine into the K frame instead of spacing the K frame

I've seen both done at the same time with moderation.

We've done it to clear the steering link to oil pan, I think about 3/4 inch. We had adjustable upper a arms so adjustability wasn't an issue.

Thank you guys for the help. The engine is a 6.2 hemi and the blower that goes on top is really tall. Don't want to cut the hood so we will look into both options for some more space.

Been piecing this engine together, we are not bucks-up, just doing some old time hot rodding.

Spacing the K-Frame causes the upper control arm to be pulled down the same distance as the thickness of the spacer. Most cars have been lowered in the front anyway which raises the upper control arm. Chances are if it was lowered the control arm won't be pulled out of the factory intended location as far. If the spacer is thick enough the control arm being pulled down will pull the upper ball joint inward not allowing enough positive camber adjustment. Offset bushings can help restore the adjustment range.
Doug

Your going to have to make custom engine mounts so your in total control on the engine height

Done this a bunch of times.

1" is a lot, but doable. I usually go 1/2" to 3/4". At 1/2", there is not a lot of other things to adjust. After 3/4", many more things become involved.

Between 1/2" and 3/4", the following usually need attention; The steering column will need to be moved down at the firewall. And the tranny will likely need the tail dropped. You can usually cut the mount down enough to work. And if you are running a radiator shroud, make sure you have the room there.

I like to use the later model spindles from the isolated suspension cars when I drop the "K". The later spindles are like 5/8" taller and offset the "K" drop very well.

5/8" drop on the "K", the later taller spindles along with it's bigger rotors and discs, and a cut and lowered tranny mount is the combo on my Cuda now.

You can get upper ball joints that have 1" longer studs to put the UCA right back where it needs to be from Howe and QA1 IIRC.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Howe-Racing-K772-and-K6024-Repl-Ball-Joint-Stud-1-Inch-Extended,69714.html

Not totally sure but isn't a 1 inch spacer used on the 68 Dart and Baracuda Hemi cars. With the new "tunnel rams" used on these cars it has to be as much as 2 inches for hood clearance. Maybe a SSAH guy could tell what is used.

Here is a working link to the Howe upper ball joint.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/HOWE-K772-BALL-JOINT-KIT,213056.html

Thank you gentlemen for taking the time to help and send links. I hope to be able to do this without too much trouble, we really want to keep the stock hood.

To ask a long unanswered question about Hudson Hornets compared to the Hudson Wasp, which one had the higher HP? Which one had the straight eight flathead with twin two barrel carbs?
Which one won the most NASCAR races back then?

Cab, TO answer your questions:

Hornet
Hornet
and
Hornet

The wasp was a step down from the Hornet line, and actually the 7x engine with twin H power was a six cylinder. That was the hot rod engine of the day.

Hornets were the first Nascar to be outlawed because of their dominance.

Thanks for asking!