Testing hydraulic lifters

Hunting a knock, pulling plug wires, no change, converter bolts look untouched and are tight.

I can get a few lifters out from the top through the heads,
how do I check for lifter operation, I seem to remember some type of compression tool??

Thanks Joe

You can use a phillips screw driver in a cup of oil

You may have varnish on the lifter and may not be able to pull it out easy like with using a magnet.

Engine is fairly new, 1500 mi. since rebuild.

Sent oil sample to Apex for analysis, OK

Lifters, 4 so far, came out easily and look great, so do the 4 cam lobes.
Fuel pump pushrod also pristine.

I have the pan off and next step I think will be to look at a few rod bearings.

Any other thoughts??

Thanks, Joe

PS so using the scewdriver method, am I looking for good spring resistance until oil pumps it solid?

Hydraulic lifters click when not working properly, they don't knock
Do you have adjustable rocker arms? If so what valve covers are you using now? If stock stamped steel covers look inside at the baffles above the rocker arms for witness marks on them
if the adjusters are hitting the baffles you can dent the baffles or use a small hole saw to remove the baffle material above the adjusters to clear them

Thanks Cab, mine are the finned cast MOPAR covers, no marks to be seen.

They are the Hughs Al. adjustable rockers and all fasteners on the shafts
and adjusters were tight.

Engine had no knock until the last ride and no undue stress at that time,
so I am hunting here. Thanks for the insight on a lifter tick.

I think my next job is to lie on my back underneath and see if the rod bearings give me a clue.

Thanks all, Joe

You really jumped into this head 1st taking things apart,oil sample test.Did the sound come from 1 side of the engine or get louder with rpm?Check all of the lifters,I have had some locked solid and had to take them apart and clean them,pump them with oil and install.Check for a bent pushrod by rolling it on a table or something flat and a quick check on the length.

Mike, I checked all the pushrods, they are straight and balls and cups are shiny and smooth.

Oil analysis is reasonable and comprehensive, the first one (after break-in, & two dyno sessions) showed elevated ppm on copper, lead, Al. and iron.

They did not consider this unusual on a new engine.
Last one after 500 additional miles (and the knock) showed levels approaching norms.

One reason I am apprehensive about the rods is we've been running the timing at the same settings as the dyno runs; 20*-40*

I meant to back it off a few degrees on the street but I forgot!!
Did not hear any signs of ping so it slipped my mind.

Anyhow....

Thanks, Joe

I hope you will get things running smooth without spending enough for another engine by chasing problems.I know you want to fix the knock.If you have a smart phone there is a 20$ 6mm bore scope that connects to your phone to look inside the engine.Check your rod bolt tq if you go in there.

Thanks for the input guys, I'll check rod and main torque before I take anything apart.

I'll let you know what I find...Joe

Well, after hunting for this knock in a few wrong directions,
I think we've hit on the culprit.

Everything recommended was checked; ie, lifters, bearings, fuel pump rod, pushrods and converter bolts.

I was looking in the wrong area, after talking to a knowledgeable engine builder, and mentioning how sooty the plugs were, especially towards the rear, where I thought the knock was, he thought we had some Carbon build-up in the combustion chamber that turned into something like a glow-plug and could definately cause the knock.

And, it wouldn't go away when pulling plug wires!!!

So whats the best way to de-Carbonize short of pulling everything apart on top?

Thank you for all the suggestions previously, Joe

PS, I leaned out the outboard carb's idle after seeing the plugs.

Steam cleaning... with the engine running pour
in water..you bring up the revs and pour in the
water.. the revs will drop but keep the engine
running(less water)... Ive done this on a few
engines... my dads Buick had a BAD knock sound
but I knew it wasnt a rod or anything like that..
I had been pulling a travel trailer for about 100
miles.. was running about 70-75 MPH ... when I got
to the camp site I heard it big time.. poured in a
couple of beers into the carb as said above.. cleaned
right up and sounded great.. I would pour in the water
(or beer..lol) and load it pretty hard on the throttle
and do it for a while.. took me about 10-15 minutes to
clean it out(do it while the engine is warmed up)

Thanks Mr P Body, would a spray bottle work?
I get a little nervous about hydraulic lock!

Joe

Spray bottle wont work.. you will end up pouring
in a good volume of water at a time.. you dont even
have to worry about hyd lock with a running engine..
the amount of water at any given time wouldnt even
come close.. but you are pouring in a decent volume
at a time... bring up the revs to like 2000 and start
pouring and try to increase to revs to like 3000 but
pour in enough water to hold it at 2000-2500.. you will
end up being close to or at WOT during this process...
but it will still be about 2000 or so rpm..
its pretty easy

OK thanks....Joe