Grinding gears - distributor gears that is...Help !

Well, I'm n my third bronze gear, just pulled it and it's sharp as a razor, plenty of bronze in the filter. The gear only has 8 passes on it. The cam is a comp, with a comp button and an Indy cover. I'm running VR-1 50 and using a Kieth Black pump.
Not sure how much of this I can stand... Anyone have some suggestions ?

With only 8 passes on it you have a major issue..
is it both sides of the gear or just one... what
spring pressure are you running and do you have a
collet on it(on the dist shaft).... what engine

It's a big block (megablock). I'm running about 525 open pressure, no collet - maybe need to educate me on that one... It's only wearing one side.

I will assume its the load side... what does
the cam gear look like.. any rough spots on it
EDIT
the collet is put on the dist shaft so it take out
the vertical lift of the dist and intermediate shaft
usually to keep the timing from moving.. is it worn
from top to bottom or just part of the gear... some
pumps take a different shaft length and your could be
long

Get a 1/2" i d collet from the hardware store, set it about .005 up from the intermediate shaft bushing. Collet will hold the bronze down in the block

No, smooth and sharp as a razor. The first gear was what came on the Pro Billet, these last two were Milodon I think.

Try some multi-grade oil( something like brad penn 10w40 or 15w40), and/or a different oil pump.
Make sure the gear is fully seated in the bushing and that it isn't being held upward some by the hex drive bottoming inside the pump.

Check your camshaft end play. Cams moving back and forth will chew up dizzy gears.

As said here... thick oil and or a tight oil
pump will cause a lot of drag/wear
EDIT
and the length if the shaft might be pushing
down hard on the oil pump.. more drag/wear

Good point.
I just took for granted the thrust clearance was set.... But it may not have been(or the timing cover bent and now it has excessive thrust clearance).

I just closely inspected all 3 gears, the wear pattern is high on the gear - would indicate to me that the shaft is sitting low ?
I've thought about going away from the 50 weight oil - hate to turn this into an oil thread but what's everyone using for a 14:1 big Stroker wedge ?
I will have the intake off this weekend, I'll have to do a check on the endplay while I have an opportunity.

I ran one Mopar brand bronze gear in my old pump gas street Duster for over 3000 miles and hundreds of both 1/8 and 1/4 passes using 5W20Wt Valvoline non synthetic engine oil. I had a Mellings high volume oil pump with the bypass spring cut back to allow 65 lbs pressure at 6500 RPM or below. I put a new Mopar brand oil pump drive bushing in the block when I first built it, I made sure the end play was no more than .005 on the camshaft and made sure the oil pump drive shaft was not bottomed out in the pump It had 225 lbs on the seats and 630 lbs opened on the first pair of heads I used on that motor and it ended up with 300 lbs on the seats with 680 lbs open on the last (3rd set)set of heads I had on it I shifted it at or above 7000 RPM on every run
I had freind who had the same thing happen on the dyno in less than 15 minutes running time on one of the motors he freshen with a wedge Mega block
Now comes the hard part, what is exactly causing your problems Good luck

I'm just thinking out loud here...Why not have a steel gear salt bath nitrated or one DLC coated?

Use the Crane gear.

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/crn-66970-1/overview/make/dodge

2000+ street/strip miles and no issues!

I use Brad Penn 10w40.

Nylon thrust button on stock timing cover.

what timing cover is being used?

It's an Indy aluminum

Whats your oil pressure like?

It's 85 at first fire and about 65 warmed up.

I run fairly loose clearances in my 470 and run thin 5w30 maybe 10w30 but that's as thick as I need even on the street in the desert summer heat. I have about 60-70 psi cold and 30-40 hot or lower idling in traffic in 100+ heat..........

I'm thinking the improper mesh pattern (height) is doing this. as said check cam end play & I would shim the dist lower shaft down to .005" axial end play. EDIT when installing the new intergear I would loosen the pump bolts first then install the gear then torque the pump bolts for dead on intergear shaft/pump hex alignment. is the intergear/cam gear (metal) types a good match?

I started with a used gear, now at 350 passes. Jessel with .010" endplay. Indymax pump. 5W30 synthetic with similar oil pressure. Is it set-up for a thrust washer below the gear? Maybe that's why the gear sets low?
Doug

doug, was that a used OEM gear or a used bronze gear ?

I'm having the same thought about it having been set up for a thrust bearing since the wear pattern is high. I went ahead and ordered a crane gear.

Used bronze gear.

I'm pretty sure the crane gear is not recommended for high volume oil pumps.

If that one wears, it will probably take out the gear on the cam with it.

You are correct. The instructions with the Crane gear state that it is not to be used with a high volume pump.

I didn't think it is supposed to be run on a used cam, either.

Ok, well if it's not recommended for a high volume, it sure as hell won't hold up to the Kieth black pump...I think it is largely due to being too low - I hope. Anyone know where to get the thrust bearings?

Go to bearing supply house and get some Torrington thrust washers.
Doug

Don`t have part #`s but there`s a 3-piece torrington kit that goes under the gear and I`ve been running it for a couple of years..........

The bottom line is, when the two gears are in proper proximity to each other, they will last way way longer than 8 passes.
There is a problem and it needs to be rectified, otherwise I don't think any type of gear will hold up.

When I ran a roller in my old 448 I just bought a bronze gear and pressed it onto my old oem shaft. Ran it for 3 seasons(a couple hundred passes, plus two dyno sessions), and it showed almost no wear on it when I pulled that motor apart.

That being said, I will say that over the last 8-10 years I have seen some roller cam cores that had some pretty sharp teeth on the gear.
When they are like that, I put a chamfer on the edges of the teeth as a little insurance.

Crap... now I guess I better pull the cam back outta the short block and check the bleepin' gear.