Oil filters, remote adapters and oil coolers...step inside!

Hey everyone,

I'm looking into the cheapest/easiest but most effective way to run an engine oil cooler for my boosted 340 project. Since I'll be running half filled block on the street, even with the cool running E85, I definitely want something to keep the oil temps down on extended street cruises.

I really didn't want to run a remote oil filter, just more money and work to install. It seems like it may be the only way to go. I am guessing there is no sandwhich adapter out there that could go between a short style filter and the block with AN fittings for a cooler built into it that would clear most headers?

What do you guys recommend? In all likelihood I will probably going with TTI headers, but if I get cheap I may just weld W2 Econo style flanges onto my Hooker SuperComps to work with my single pattern W2 Econo heads.

https://www.amazon.com/Derale-15702-Ther...;tag=slk03b1-20

I would tap the block for NPT fittings and use a dual remote oil filter adapter to expose the oil filters to air flow using AN hoses to the remote adapter I wouldn't plumb a oil cooler unless you find out that you really need it. I would, and do, use 240 F as the cut off on the oil temps. for using a engine oil cooler on petroleum based oils

Justinp61, thanks for the link! Have you tried that with a short oil filter and headers? I can't remember what kind of clearance I had on my Ebody and hooker super comps (I ran a 90 degree adapter that I hated) and my motor is at the machine shop so I can't check to see if that would fit along with a short filter.

Cab, why don't you recommend going with an oil cooler? I was thinking that it may not be the best idea for cold starts or winter cruising, but with the thermostatic oil filter sandwich adapter I figured it wouldn't be too big of a deal.

I was thinking for a half fill block, iron heads and boost that I'd never have a problem with engine oil being too cold....but I will be running an 8qt pan and E85 is known for it's cool combustion temps so I guess there is a possibility that I won't have oil temp issues without a cooler.

I just hate having to find out the hard way, cruising with friends in the summer or what not and having to do the park and limp home.

I had a Cyberdyne digital temperture gauge on my old pump gas Duster with a three way switch on it so I could read the water temp, oil temp or tranny tempatures on one gauge. That motor made over 700 HP on pump gas, the highest oil temp I saw on it here in the summer was 210 F when the engine coolant temps where 230 F It had no extra oiling cooling features in it, stock 1970/71 Hemi 6 quart oil pan with the standard size Ford Mopar oil filter
I've seen many hot rodders over build many features like you want to do and the motors wouldn't get hot enough (above 160 F)to make the coolants and oils work properly Put a oil temperature gauge on it first and go from there

I haven't tried the part in the link. My block is drilled and tapped for a remote filter. I don't run a cooler though.

I mean340, i'm about to be building a 408 with 2/3 filled block for the street so am also a little concerned with temps, unfounded and untested but its in the back of my mind. I have a remote filter set up already. That said, Id like to know where is the best place to locate the oil temp sender, i'm guessing in the pan????, I will run it and see what I end up with before adding coolers etc. I will be running 98 pump gas EFI, 11.5 CR. iron W2 heads.
so, some say make sure your radiator is up to the task particularly your fan set up, we know the top of the block is hottest and we have water there. we also know that as we have less water in the block the duty cycle if you will of the water is quicker as there is not as much so it gets run through the radiator more often so possible cools better,,,,maybe,,,.
Anyway, it'll be interesting to see the outcome

Oh, also, I have an LA block, oil will go from the block to the filter then on the return line back it splits, one line goes back into the block at the old filter location, the other line enters the rear china wall and is taken to the front of the block to feed #1 main (similar to the race blocks), this may help me some with oil temps,,,,maybe! just guessing

If you drill and tap the block for the NPT fittings to use a remote oil filter adapter( much easier and less messy changing oil filters when the bottoms are pointed down instead of sideways ) You can always add the cooler later with that thermostatic adapter later

I use these oil adaptor plates. CNC'd and sold by a Moparts member.

Oil plate


All our Australian cars require a remote oil filter as the position of the steering box doesn't allow a filter to be mounted on the block.
These are the best plate Ive used to date.

Yeah I have had to run a engine oil cooler in my Barracuda 528 half filled engine, I had seen 260F in summer so that was my need. I purchased a cheap sandwich plate but drilled it out to -10 fittings and ported it out for max flow before I put it on, car now runs 230F max .

Pretty simple on a small block

Andy, what size lines are those?
I have one that came with -10, but I've seen others that use -12.
I would assume this is a case where size matters, and bigger is better?

I just ordered a remote set up(for the block) I will
be using #10an.... I had all the other stuff already

I used 10 also.

I always use #12 for the lines if it will fit. I have a dry sump set up with a #20 line from the tank to the pump.

Most plates(engine side) and the filter side are 1/2
NPT... the supply side on the block is 1/2" max..
closer to a large 3/8".. I drill the pipe fitting a bit
larger for less restriction... never had any issues doing
it that way.. I'm only putting on a remote on this engine
is its a PITA to get the filter past the header and its a
short filter