Done with Champion plugs

Use to run NGK's in my street and race car stuff years ago but went to Champion with my new stuff because that's what Edelbrock and 440 Source recommended for their heads but they just seem to foul way too easy!!
Both my combos run on pump gas and both around 11.0 comp. race motor is a 500 ci with CNC'd Eddy heads, roller cam and tunnel ram, street motor is 448 ci with ported Stealth's, solid cam and EFI.
What do you guys recommend besides Champion RC9YC and RC12YC.

Thanks

Went to Autolite after many years of NGK...

And after many conversations...


(Heard not so good things about NGK quality control...


Improved things about Autolite quality control...)


Champion out of the question...




First time ever running Autolite...


We'll see what happens...

I have run Autolites for years, even the one's made in mehico with excellent results, switched to NGK's a couple of years ago and have just as good of results with them, standard Champion's used to be a good plug but seem to have gone down hill a number of years ago, I ran the Champion racing plug for a while and had sucess with them too but they are harder to find around here, so I went back to Autolites.

Auto lite for last 10 yes on big blocks. Never an issue. Hated champions

using autolites in my edelbrock heads. cheap, easy to find and burn clean.

What ignition?

Well if you like NGK then use a NGK plug. Probably want a heat range of 7 in the race motor and 6 on the street engine.

I have had less than stellar luck with Champions and Autolites. On 2 different occasions I put a new set of Autolites in a car I'd owned and the engine had a miss immediately afterward. Put the old plugs in and it cleared up.

I've never had bad luck with NGK's, in everything from race cars to lawn equipment.

Champions have always seemed weak for me

Whenever I find Champion plugs in an engine/car I just bought, they always leave the area with a nice large parabolic curve.

autolites on both cars, one has indy heads, and other has 440 source heads. 0 issues and i run the cars rich as [censored].

I would correct the air fuel ratio first, jetting or fuel map, to stop the plug fouling first and go from there I've used all three brands of spark plugs with good results with all of them On your deal with Autolites on the street I would start with Auolite # 3924 resitor plugs or thier # 3911 non resitor race plugs IHTHs

Champions may or may not be better or worse than others. But in my mind; if you're fouling plugs, you have tune issues.

I run Denso plugs in my engine. I had my heads out on the bench at work and had a Tundra in my rack getting a tune up. So I screwed on of the Denso Iridium plugs from the Tundra into my Indy head and they looked good in the chamber. So I snagged a set out of parts just to break in my 493 and surprise!!! they are still in there after about 6 years. They don't foul and never miss a beat EVER!!!
I'll never use another brand plug in my engine.Been using Denso plugs in all my engines since I've been an import technician

Gus

Race car has MSD dist, MSD HVC II coil, MSD wires and MSD 7AL2, street car has MSD dist, Mallory coil, MSD wires and 6AL2.

Sounds like Autolites is what the majority are happy with. Can someone supply me with the part #'s I should use in my race car and street car please. If I don't have full part # for the kid behind the counter I might as well be asking for a fart can muffler for a tuner car!!...:o)

Ive never had any issues with the Champion Race cut back plugs, C59 CX I think? Most misfire problems are either too rich, or to cold of a plug for the conditions.

if memory serves, i run the autolite 3923, and 3924's, one car is 10.15 compression, other is 10.9, both are street/track cars, never foul plugs.

# 3924 for the street car, 3911 or maybe 3910 for the race car Try the 3911 first and go from there Summit stocks and sells them also

AC plugs, anyone for AC? They seemed on par with the Autolites, better than the Champions in my oil burner a couple years ago.

Iridium for my street car, I just took out a set with 115K on them. Replaced with NGK Iridium TT.

R.

i alternate between 3924's and 3926's for street driving. 3923's or 3921's would be a good starting point for racing.

$20 NGk's. Used all those expensive race plugs for as much as $50 a set.No better than the regular NGK's

looks rich, would hope that's not a top end shutoff?

Denso makes good plugs. Never used them in an old car though. Use ngk mostly. Used to go with autolites before they decided to import them. If im going to buy import anything, it will be good stuff.

NGK or Denso in my vehicles, only use champions in my lawn eqipment when I can't find NGK or Denso

I'm freshening my 572. It made its best passes ever at the end of the year. Went 9.02@151, 3350. I guess it'll get a new set of NGK's. The old ones have 300 passes.
Doug

actually, i don't get too lost in the name brands, look for something that has a tip that fits the combustion chamber, proper heat range, not too much resistance (i ohm check plugs), and go for it. i did do an ohms check on a champion rc12y vs an autolite 3924. the champion had 70,000 ohms resistance, the autolite had 7,000 ohms. i double checked, i tripled checked, couldn't believe it at first.

NGK has a real tech guy that answers on second ring --he will put you dead on with a plug part number all are about $19 a set off Egay with free shipping and if in a jam Advance Auto parts can get overnight for decent price.
Thing is with NGK the plating used on the threads makes good tuning aid--we run alky and when we get that plating burning off a couple threads up then we are dead on
NGK quality is second to none. I do like Autolite race plugs but for the money no way I will swap from NGK--I would not take a set of Champion junk plugs for free--usually hard to get 8 out of the box w/o one being fubar'd up with off center etc
NGK 5671A then select heat range number 7-8-9 etc and away you go Hands down best plugs year after year Japan made--awesome quality plug after plug

The China Autolite street plugs were awful--but they have switched back to Mexico and quality went way up--if buying Autolite street plugs do NOT accept any with China on the box--even the threads can be twisted and bad on those like they were hand done with worn out leftover WW 1 Russian dies

Most plugs for magneto applications should only be 5K ohms max. Most I get are in the 1.5k ~1.9K ohm range. Tim

I ran Autolite race plugs in my 12.5 440 street motor.It runs Stealths and Dominator on the street.They were decent but just didnt feel right.Went to NGKs like 4 or 5 years ago.Still the same set and runs great.idle seems to be better also.Rocky

Champion "R" plugs are resistor plugs. Thus the high resistance.
Doug

If you are fouling plugs........the ignition is weak, you have the wrong heat range plug, or the carbs are off

I use the Champion race plugs with the cut back ground strap in all of the "race" engines that I work on. I've never had an issue with any of the Champion race plugs. I can't buy them locally but Summit always has them in stock so I just keep an extra box in the drawer.

I'm running NGK plugs in my pump gas 470 engine. At the moment I'm trying the projected and the super projected plugs just to see if it makes a difference.

I agree that Champion Race plugs are fine except the price $4 a whack
NGK offers same kind of ground straps / non projected tips etc for $2 a whack

FWIW I understand that the projected tip plug was invented by Smokey Yunick
( as well as cross flow radiator and other gems we take for granted)

If I am remembering correctly, my NGK salesman told me they now make Autolites. Hope this is not misinformation...

Autolite or Auto-Lite is an American brand of spark plugs and ignition wire sets. Autolite products are sold in the United States, Canada and Mexico, and as of 2015 are now sold in Australia. Until 2011, the Autolite brand was a part of Honeywell's Automotive Consumer Products Group, along with Fram and Prestone. Since then, it has been manufactured and marketed by FRAM Group, LLC, which is a constituent company of Auckland, New Zealand-based investment firm Rank Group. Autolite has been the Official Spark Plug of NASCAR since April 2000.





UCI-FRAM AutoBrands is among North America's largest and most diversified companies servicing the vehicle replacement parts and car care market. Our industry leading businesses include Airtex Products, ASC Industries, Autolite, FRAM Filtration, Holts, and Prestone.

We supply a broad range of automotive products under well-known industry brands, including: Airtex® fuel delivery and cooling systems; ASC® water pumps, Autolite® spark plugs and wire sets; FRAM® and Luber-Finer® filters; and Prestone®.

I sure learned that the hard/long way,,,,,,

i just did an ohm check on a autolite ap3924; 5000 ohms. there's an autolite 5224 that has a longer projected tip. all down at wally world!

Champions lasted for 1 meet for me with MSD6A, rubbish, went to NGK 7's, never looked back, far superior.

You dont read a Champion like an NGK. The Champions are way easier to read, and the heat ranges make sense.

If you had an issue with a spark plug, it's YOU not the plug.

Also, cross reference charts are WORTHLESS. Use the book from the plug manufacturer you are going to use. Don't use a cross reference to select heat range.

Havn`t used Chumpeons for years and love NGK`s and they are easier to read. What comp are you at w/the 7`s cos I run those or 8`s at 12.1.1..........

I was only at 10:1 with the 440, ran better for me at around .032 gap with the MSD on both motors.

I ran the 7`s for my sig et and was goin lean up top due to a crappy tune on my part but the 7`s are nice and clean but have 8`s now to mess w/then off to Irwindale for some 1/8th mile fun.............

I have been using Autolite for years ,Autolite 86 A Hot Plug With good luck !!!!

NGK are good because you have a broad spread tolerance of actual heat range in 1 given heat range plug number.

There is supposedly 130* of tip temperature difference in each heat range on an NGK plug........about the same as any other maker.

Tip temperature is strictly based on the amount of insulation around electrode. Nothing more, nothing less. It's fairly easy to compare heat ranges between brands with your eyes, no cross reference chart needed.

And somebody said you don't read a Champion like an NGK.....really, how is that possible? Mixture is on the porcelain, timing is the strap and heat range is in the threads. How does that possibly change with brands?........answer, it doesn't

I think the NGK's are easier to read heat range because of the lighter color of the threaded body as opposed to the dark color of the autolites, at least it is with my old blind eye's because I pick up the contrast easier.

Well you may be correct on the 130* temp, but as I said they worked much better on the 10:1SCR 340/440 cars I ran, NGK 6's (340) and then 7's (440) always came out more or less looking right thats with a good mph tune, perhaps a few sizes over the top on the jets?, but thats how we used to run it back then, a bit on the rich side, the equivalent champs showed a lot different picture and going colder just made them foul on the same tune as with NGK's.

He is an example for you.

If you are using blown alcohol and Champions, I want to see the top of the case has 3/4 to all the way around from the ground wire buring off the coating. On an NGK, they want 3 THREADS DOWN. Do that ona Champion and it will back side pistons and all other bad stuff.

So the opposite is true. If you only take the top of the cad (or whatever plating the [censored] use) off the plug it will be too cold.

For N/A I like to see the top thread gone on a Champion. That's almost 4 on the NGK.

On top of that, the heat ranges are too wide, which some on here think is ideal. I do not.