48' W7's on a 59' R block?

Hello,

I was curious if anyone on this board has done this with good results? I know this can be done and I've read SDSS website about doing this, but is it worth it? I have a fully ported set of w5's ready to go but I've stumbled on these w7's and there taunting me! Lol

The heads are middle generation Chapman Craftsmen truck heads. 10 bolt. 598 intake etc. if I do go this route I'd like to have someone hand port these heads to get best power from them.

These will be on a full drag effort build. No street miles.

I know with having someone notch the intake runners and proper offset of the rockers they will work. But is it going to worth switching from my w5's? What else do I need to know about switching these heads over?

Custom pistons are required, I was planning on doing that for the w5's so nbd. I know these heads oil through the pushrods. What lifters and pushrods would I run? Would I have to install copper tubes in the oil lifter galleys? Is that the easiest option when running a big roller like I have?

If anyone could walk me through the steps with this I'd really appreciate it. I'm not really familiar with the W 7/8/9 stuff.

Also I've attached a couple photos. One being of my heads. What rockers style does this head run and can I even get a set? They will be custom I'm sure with requiring so much offset or does someone have a used set sitting around?

I thought I was set on the w5's but I can't stop thinking about these w7's sitting in our shop lol.

Thanks for all your help and patience, Mark

I wouldnt waste the time or money on that.. put
the W-5s on it... find a 48* block for a max effort
engine
EDIT
I might even have a set of TD rockers for the W-7s

That's what I've been thinking too is finding a 48' block. But as we all know that's a problem lol. I'd be interested in those rockers if you do have them and want to sell?

Thanks, Mark

One name comes to mine BRETT MILLER.

I'll have to look.. I know at one time I did have
a set.. not sure if I sold them or not

Sounds good. Thanks!

Wish I had those W-7s on my 48* short block. I never stumble over anything. Lol.

I'm thinking run the w5's, and start to accumulate parts and knowledge for a nice w7 motor in the future. Do the w7 motor right the first time👍🏻

I USUALLY don't either lol. I'm the guy who always misses a deal by a day.😅

Me too. If you decide to unload them keep me in mind. I have a 380" shortblock waiting.

I do but it usually results in me falling in a pile of $hit.

Check the valve angle on those. There are a lot of variations on W7's. Also check how much the pads have been milled, who knows what setup was on there.

Will do!👍🏻

I will do that sir!

Is that bore under 4 inch looks tiny

Yes, it's 3.9 and change I can't remember exactly. Pretty crazy it's sat untouched this many years.

Siamese block??

I had a twin to that block that I ran my w5s on. No oil holes to the deck from cam, a factory oil hole drilled to the water under the factory oil filter hole, not enough crank counter weight machining, so the crank won't even drop in the block and a slew of other stuff, IF it is truly a twin to my block lol!.

Non Siamese block. It's a early R block not R3

Was your block a R3 block or R block? Thanks

R

Interesting, any other issues you have that I should be aware of?

Thanks, Mark

There is more, missing water holes in the deck, seems like that about covers it lol, I am a machinist, so I was able to fix everything. Just need to know what to look for and where so u can make the fixes. Mine lived a long happy life, and made decent power for a w5 motor.

Thanks for the info I really appreciate it. My dad is a machinist as well so I'm sure we'll figure it out. Good to kmow to check for these issues!

Thanks

My early R3 block had the same crank rubbing issue..
a while with the die grinder took care of it.. and
about 10-15 times setting the crank in it

As mentioned check the oil passage 90° where the adapter bolt hole intersects the horizontal oil passage. On my R1 Brett Miller warned me to not trying cleaning it up. I wasn't smart enough to listen and after two very light cuts to blend the 90 I found water. It was very thin there but apparently had never leaked. Next time I'll listen.

I should have looked my old R1 over better, but it had been run before so I assume it didn't have these issues. So many little quirks to these things.

My block was new.. bought it at the Indy swap meet
cheap.. I was a bit concerned that I was spending
$700 for a anchor.. it was the 48* dry sump block
siamese 9.2.. it needed everything.. line bored on
both the can tunnel and crank.. clearanced around
the webbing on #2 main area and a couple of other
things.. but all in all it was a great buy.. one
of the few times I got a deal on something

I'll be going over this block with a fine tooth comb that's for sure!🤓

Isn't that a magnum race block? No shaft oiling and its machined for the factory roller cam dog-bones and retainer. Wish I could find a good deal on one of those, siamese would be even better.

From what I understand it's a 59' early R block? Didn't know they made the magnum blocks in the "R" platform. But I'm learning daily about this stuff! Can anyone else chime in?

Thanks!

You aren't even close to being alone there.
I panicked , but a quick call to Ryan J. gave me the details on what is apparently a common fix.
The mis-alignment of the drill bit paths was begging to be cleaned up and it didn't take much at all to break through.
I planned on using a remote filter anyway , so it was really no big deal..........except for the mini coronary I experiences when the burr punched through. lol

Thought I was the only one who did that.

We just checked and yep, no oil holes from the deck to the cam! Not to bad of a fix. But sure glad you mentioned it! Thanks again

No problem, I could see that it didn't in your pic.