Big block A-body guy's

What headers are you running? I want to run the between the frame rail's style but don't see many options other than TTI or making them,,pic's and link's if you got them.

I have had the TTI headers - they fit - but man you need a box of band-aids and a 12 pack to install

I have heard the Pro-Parts fit - but hang low

Their was one other - but I cant recall - ProSport might know

I loved my Headman fender wells. shortish 2" tubes and long collector. I know that's not what you want but I think you should consider

Dont have them and never saw a set in real life but here is another option.

http://www.maddogheaders.net/products/mopar

We ran McCandles (Pro Parts) for years. I really liked them but, they do have 1 tube outside the frame on one side and 2 on the other.

We make them

thats not an issue as my Hedman smallblock header's have a single tube that is on the outside on each side.

I ran fenderwell supercomps for years and finally built a set of custom fenderwell headers in 2.250

You have a PM on this

Did you test to see the power diff?

http://www.bobmazzoliniracing.com/shop#!/A-Body/c/4308142/offset=0&sort=normal

link to headers

Picked up .15 in the 1/8

No way I'd have in chassis headers on a big block a body that still had torsion bars. Been real happy with hookers on a 470 with Indy heads. Easy to work on and easy to take off. However I would like to see a set of in chassis headers on a big block a body without torsion bars.

no torsion bars here, took them off a long time ago and switched to coilovers,no motormounts either have front plate, still have stock K member with Cap auto upper and lower controll arms but still have stock steering,,but thats another post.

Here's mine Bill .

which one are those?

Pro-parts don't remember if I had the hood off while we were at the track or not

Bill, in my opinion there's only one way to do it right since you don't have torsion bars or motor mounts and that is to have them custom made to fit your car. That's what I'll do next time for sure.
Another option would be to find a set of TTI 2 1/8" step headers to test fit in your car.

I've used TTI 2" underchassis headers, ProParts 2" and MadDog 2" and they were all just a huge pain with torsion bars and inner fenders.

The Hedman fenderwell headers that Sixpackgut mentioned are something that I always wanted to try as they made more power than anything else on several cars that I read about.

If you run the hedman fender well headers don't you also run into tire clearance issues where a taller tire will hit plus you can't make Sharp turns without them rubbing. I'm not sure just asking

If I remember right,,you don't have inner fender panels. The TTI's are CLOSE to just about anything. Not having inner fenders and no torsion bars would be a big +. You know my car,,all original front suspension/torsion bars/steering/inner fender wells/etc......it takes 4 hours to get the starter off and 4 hours to get it back on with the TTI's. Mine is an RB with Indy EZ-1 heads,,,your low block 'may' be better or worse. You ain't gonna' like the extra work/time involved with an A body/B/RB engine combination!! You'll enjoy the power, but the work required in routine maintenance is making me want to go back to a B body car.

Fenderwell here as well, and I think mine are old used up Headman headers...I have been looking for a nice new fenderwell set that are not TTI headers. I do not like the way they pinch together near the trans for an X-pipe...I like them aimed straight back.

We have a set of under chassis TTI's on our Hemi a-body....Bring band aids....

1000 dollars plus parts and a local Pittsburgh area guy can fix you right up Bill.

Pics, details....please

I have original ProParts on my Cuda and hate them. First off they are too small for my engine and are costing me power. Also, it is a PIA to work on anything near them. That said, I am running a 4 speed with Z-Bar, and engine is set back about 1". I am running a low deck 496 with 440-1 heads.

Got a box of bends and flanges ready to go. Will be making my own this time.

-Dave

Yes we have them on a Aussie A Body and they rub before you get to full lock, not real big problem on a part time street/drag car.

Headman

Man, does it look weird for me to see a steering column cover over the hole on the left side of the engine compartment where the steering culumn was designed to be, same thing on the brake master cylinder location Probally one of the many reasons the U.S. broke away from England and the British influences so many years ago

Pro Part chassis headers on the 67 Barracuda, had to dent 1 tube a little as the cross link hit. Also had to cut back the outer steering column tube to the firewall for clearance. This is a major issue as the tube end has a retainer that keeps the 2 piece steering shaft connected into the steering box coupler. Surprise after 10 years of 130MPH 1/4 mile passes I lost steering pulling into my pit area.

I have some of the early MadDog BB a body headers, supposedly for a low deck. I had eddy heads and couldn't make them work on a 383 in a '67 Dart, smashed up one of the tubes in one spot.. maybe someone with more experience could. I'm not ever going to use these so if someone is interested they can shoot me a PM.

those the heddman header 4 a small block give u steering problems to

Biggest problem i found with a BB in an A body was the top of the shock mount was in the way for making nice flowing headers & plug access was an a$$. move the shock mount & everything became easy to build my own but i have torsion bars so i make fenderless exits.

Up until this last weekend...I had only run Hooker fenderwell headers on both race cars and street cars with BBs installed. Jumped off the deep end last week and installed a set of TTIs under chassis headers on a low deck in a 74 stock suspension Duster. Positives: things are a work of art, fit perfectly, did not have to dent one tube, good access to header bolts and ok access to Eddy headed angle plugs, are they tight...oh yeah...putting them on was a symphony of things that had to all happen at once, in order, install trans and converter, lay headers in engine comp, lower eng, lay starter on headers, lower engine some more, arrange headers and starter to fit between steering/suspension/engine/inner fenders as you continue to lower engine, bolt up trans and converter, install starter nose in trans, snug headers to heads, bolt up starter, bolt up headers... Perfect...lol, oh yeah, mini starter is quite trapped, starter change, if needed will be an adventure but honestly isn't that true with most headers? Since it is a full time street car we wanted "cleaner" looking exhaust...so we'll see how it goes.

Just curious... how close are the Hedman
headers to being equal length primary tubes..
with their design I would think they could
make them right on for equal length

Very, very close to equal @ 36" length and IMO way better than the Hooker's with 43" primary length. All around quality is much better also.

look good Al, are these one's you guy's made?

A few years ago..In DC so do not have access to many pics here. Just lots of time to surf the net BTW those are all in the frame. The drivers side looks like it goes over rail but does not. It has two donuts to turn it out and then directly back in and under inside the frame rail

Nice, thanks!

On my sons 72 Dart with a 400 we use the 2" CPPA chassis headers which I bought in 1996 before TTI was out but I believe TTI are the same. His are not a problem as only one plug is a little tight which is not bad as I can change the plugs in 15 minutes as long as the eng is cold. His is all stock with the torsion bars. We installed them by dropping the K-frame and putting them on the eng while the eng and trans were bolted in the K-frame and then lowered the car down over it. Really the only tight problem is the starter. Its never gone bad but if it does I think we would have to loosen the header on that side to get it out. Ron

I'm using the Pro Parts headers. This is my second set in about 30+ years. Original set we got thru Herb McCandless,new set thru Bob Mazzolini. The new Pro Parts style are made for Bob by TTI. They are very nice quality and better tubing.

My buddy's car had a set just like those on his dart back in the late 70s, called, Headers by Ed, fit better than the hookers and more tire clearance. Changed plugs from underneath

FWIW I have used Pro Parts and TTI BB A body headers and IMO they both leave a lot to be desired. IMO it is worth they expense of getting headers built.

You want stainless or steel? lol

Hey he is going Big so go stainless - he has a budget (an unlimited budget)

sorry to be a pain in the azz i know this topic is about big blocks in a bodies but has any one used headman headers in a body but small block does the pipe that comes out the frame rail does it interfear with the steering thanks

What I have tested, the Hookers are good for tq but limit peak power somewhat, the primaries are extremely long. TTI's are a pain, there really isn't room for underchassis headers, never used the Hedmans, have built my own fenderwells. The shock towers can be chopped and the top ends of the shocks moved outside for a little more room, and pushing the firewall a little back behind the wheels gives you enough room not to limit the tire size.

no, not with a 26" tire. I am going to a 28" so I will see.

I heard this story before!

can u send me a pic of the headers installed

Yes you have ---- where do you think I got it from

Where the heck you guy's getting your info from!!

I've got that kit to build 2" headers, Bill. I don't know if they'd be any good but we can try something. You want them between the frame rails, all the same length tubes, good clearance for easy spark plug removal and easy to get the bolts out...in an A Body? Sounds easy.

sound's about right,,,oh and don't forget easy installation with no loss of knuckle meat.LOL

Piece of cake!

I have to remove my engine plate to get the headers off in my new small tire car. Those STOCK firewall rules make things tough. LOL At least he was able to weld the collectors on so I don't have to buy those silly cable systems.

We usually have to make a wrench for the plugs but otherwise they are somewhat pain free. Slip on collectors and install and removal is easy