I'm on budget but still wanna have fun

I have a 72 Charger street/strip car, but I mostly use it for bracket racing. Mostly on 1/8 mile because of distance to track.

I have built it from swap meet finds and left over parts from other projects.
To keep it fun I want to stay on a budget, but until I have a wheelstander I am willing to spend some more

I'm considering a pair of Sidewinder heads and it would be interesting to hear from you experienced fellows:
1. how much faster would they make it?
2. if they are good as they come OOTB?
3. suggested compression ratio, gaskets and springs?

I don't know weight but it has fiberglass fenders and both bumpers including brackets, plastic grille, no back seat and lightweight bucket racing seats. No heater box or carpet.
Welded in subframe connectors, Comp Eng Slide-A-Link bars, 318 torsion bars, 90/10 front and race shocks in rear. Cold air T/A style scoop.

Block is a 440 bored .030, top decked, fully balanced steel crank with
JE custom flat top pistons flush with cyl deck,
Hughes solid cam HTL5256BS (610/614 w/1.6 rockers, 252/256deg, 108 deg lobe sep angle).
906 unported, just cleaned up and matched to intake, and milled down A LOT. With 200 psi Kevin on Hughes estimated my comp ratio to around 12.6:1... Race gas is no fun!
Harland Sharp 1.6 rockers,
M1 intake,
950 Holley DP,
tti 2" O.D. tubes with 3-1/2" collectors extended around 18",
I have modified an universal crank trigger ignition with dual coils, fully adjustable. 10 deg at start and a flat curve running, seems like it likes 36 deg best. Big difference compared to the MSD I ditched. No splutter, no missing, fires right up and steady readings.
Man valve Th 727 w/ unknown 10" converter,
4.30 sure grip
Best 1/8 run 7.32/95.3 mph, 1.662 60' on 9" slicks, slippery track.

Thankful for any input folks!

Those heads must have been milled a lot. Like .100" to get that kind of CR, if that's accurate.

IMO you are really cranking for unported 906s. Compression helps. But more headflow should really add power with everything else you've got going on, the heads are the weak point for sure. Stock valves or 2.14/1.81s?

Also, assuming you've got something like 6 cc valve notches I think 12.6:1 compression is a high estimate. You'd need a 65 CC combustion chamber which on a 906 would be milled until the step pad was gone, although people have done that.

You do the math: unported 906s flow max of 228cfm. Sidewinders are at least 270. 1cfm can make 2hp. 40# weight loss to boot.
Todd Marsh is supposed to be selling them ready to go.

But since the Sidewinders came out Trick Flow has dropped a new head into the market and that flows maybe 330 out of the box. I can't remember, but there are a lot of posts here about both sets of heads.

R.

Curious: What altitude is that track??

Generally speaking at 0 deck flat top piston with a 79.5 cc chamber is right at 11:1, depending on head gasket. That said, to be a 12.6 with milled 906's...is a very generous GUESS-timate.

2" headers seems a little extreme to me but im no expert

What is your goal? Do you want to spend some $$, and about how much? I would go with heads first, if it is in budget. Keep the compression up there though, or it will cost you a lot of what the heads gain. You can run the lash tighter, which may provide a decent return on investment! Try the intakes first. (.016?)
On the heads, the sidewinders by trick flow may offer some advantages over the other aluminum heads. Keep an eye out for some results , hopefully accurate back to back tests against other aluminum heads.
Finally, fine tuning everything in the car may pay some dividends as well. Leave no stone unturned, if you haven't already. Guys here love to help,,,,,

A rough guess is that around .100 has been milled off, the step pad is almost gone.
The valves are 2.14/1.81s.

I talked with Hughes after getting 200psi cylinder pressure and this is the answer:

I went ahead and did some calculations.

Based on the altitudes listed below (choose yours) here is what I estimate your compression ratio to be.

At sea level to 500ft above you would be approx. 12.5:1
750 to 1500 ft above sea level you would be approx. 13:1
2000 to 3000 ft above sea level you would be approx. 13.6:1
3500 to 4500 ft above sea level you would be approx. 14:1

Good luck,
Kevin

My elevation is 600 ft.
Cam is installed (and dialed in) centerline at zero, after Hughes instructions.

It might be a high estimate, but I know it's too high for pump gas.

I should have cc'd the heads and cylinders when it was out, but I had no time, the race was next morning. Anyway, that is not an issue, I want aluminum heads and I want most bang for the buck. Also, next time I will measure

Well, my goal is most bang for the bucks. I can spend a grand that Sidewinders cost, and maybe even two if the Trick Flow's are worth it. But I don't want have to buy new rockers or something else expensive.

With alu heads I guess I will be relatively safe with something like 11:1 on good gas?

Talking about lash I had to do some investigation, I don't have the papers that cam here right now. When I googled I found that Hughes specs .010/.012 for my cam, they call it "tight lash design cam series". I have to look in my papers, but I think they had a bigger number there. Thanks for the tip!

You might be correct, but I traded them for an old rusty pair of 1-3/4" Hooker Super Comp's

Track altitude is 700ft, my shop where I measured cyl pressure is 600ft.

Have no opinion on comp ratio, just referring to Hughes etimation...

I have not used a Moroso stick.
Someone dares to guess how much hp/tq my engine cranks out?

Buy my car.. it will wheel stand for ya... its
light and if you want you can buy it as a roller
or turn key... with your engine and trans in it,
it would be 2500# with you if your 200#.. then save
your car for the street

If the heads were cut .100", that's close to 20cc on 906's.
If you buy new heads, I would cc the old ones before deciding on exactly what to do with the new ones.
If you're really at 12:1+ now, I would be hesitant to lose much of that if added performance is the goal.
The 60' times are kinda soft for a 12:1 440 with a high TQ cam and 4.30 gears.
I suspect the "unknown" 10" converter may not be getting it done for you.
I've always been a believer in running as much stall as a combo can take( race car, not street car), and I'd be looking at like 4700-5000 with that combo....... But honestly, when I put new heads on I'd probably add about 10deg of duration and then up stall speed to 52-5300.

I admit that a lighter car with a professional chassie would make me faster, but I love my old school car and she can't help she's a b-body
I'm not a professional racer and will never be, my companies, other hobbies and family take too much time. All I want is to be a little faster with a fair amount of $$$ and elbow grease.
I'm pretty sure the heads holds her back, but some input from experienced racers can never be wrong
By the way, how did you know my weight?

I will, if I get new heads, cc them and try to find a good compromise in compression ratio before I bolt them on.

My carb is not fine tuned yet, I had a slight bog right of the starting line. Got the best 60' times when I had her at around 1,500 rpm's and just slowly pushed the pedal at starting line. It still bogs a little when the converter grips. Will have to spend some time to sort it out, but had new heads in my head ( ) already so I didn't care too much.

I have a 3.91 SG lying. Is my car too heavy or could it work with my torque cam?

Here she is

One more

Have you thought about doing some porting work on your own? If you ask on here, info on what to do for starters to get about 50 to 75 percent of possible flow gains can be done by the average guy taking his time. You could start by working with the valves you have, or upgrading the intakes to 2.14 size. Just doing the intakes will keep the cost down, and I am betting on good gains, even leaving the exhausts stock. Some of the other posters here can maybe chime in on that last suggestion.

If someone is willing to to the work, I'm all for doing some home porting.
I did it for the first time 30 years ago.

I have been thinking of doing some porting myself, I actually like that kind of work and have done a lot of 2-stroke porting, but the problem is lack of time... and iron heads will need long hours
The valves are 2.14/1.81s
Weight loss is another reason I've been looking at alu.

Sell the iron heads and apply that money towards a better set of new aluminum heads Buy the best you can afford at the time of purchase

I think that's what I wanna do
but I'm still curious what you guys think what it will do in hp and ET's

We have no idea. It's that simple. You can guess-timate based on head flow, but since we don't KNOW what yours flow...who knows? Any of the aluminum heads "should" produce an improvement but how much is a crap shoot.

You absolutely cannot bolt on any better flowing heads on without a tune up change to see the entire potential of that change, also.

A set of great flowing aluminum heads are going to put a real smile on your face. WAG, three tenths in the 1/4? I also agree on the need for a much looser converter. If you think your best shift point is 6,000 I wouldn't be afraid to go as loose as 5500 stall. A very high stall is softer on the initial hit, but pulls harder on average through the run.

I like your car.
My 73 might be slightly lighter than your 72 (I've lightened it a lot, but it still has steel bumpers and stock doors and glass. It weighs 3510 with me in it. It has a little less compression than yours (11.4), and a little less cam (.585 Ultradyne flat tappet)
It runs approximately the same as yours:

7.32 1/8
11.45 1/4
1.55 60 ft.

I think mine might 60 ft better because I have 10.5 x 29.5 slicks.

Sorry, I got so involved with uploading the picture I forgot to include some points that may help, what did and didn't improve performance:

2.14 & 1.81 valves: Heads pocket ported and ports cleaned up
950 Holly on M1 intake (I had a 800 dp Holley before- the 950 is faster)
Turbo Action "J" 5000 converter...works better than the 4000 Coan it used to have
4.30 spool (4.56 did not change performance)
Cal-Tracs helped the car hook and leave consistently

It seems to me your getting good performance from your car, but I know what you mean, it's time for a little more thrill.....

I'm not sure what the duration is on that UD cam, but if you have an honest 11.4cr, I'd be looking for it to be in the mid/upper 260's to go along with that 5000 stall.

As for the OP heads, I've never dyno tested unported 906's with stock valve sizes vs 2.14/1.81 installed. I'm sure someone has done it, or done some in car testing, but what I have seen is that the flow numbers don't really suggest that the 2.14/1.81 upgrade is the hot ticket unless at least "some" blending is done.

My first 11sec combo, circa 1986.
440 with pistons .055 down the hole, home pocket ported 906's(when I bought a flow bench years later I tested them and found they flowed just under 240), racer brown stx-19 on a 105(in at 103)bought it at a garage sale for $20, original torker, 850 Holley, hooker 2" headers, Fairbanks 9" converter($200 at a swap meet, it was new), 4.56's, ss springs, 5/16" fuel line & pick up(original), mech fuel pump, flat hood, crank driven w/p, full interior, wipers, heater.
Went 11.60's at 116.
Swapped the cam for a crower solid that was like 248/254-110, in at 106, ran much "nicer", went 11.50's, but lost 1mph...... Went 115.

If you have the money i would get better heads and a converter.

I say that because i had a all steel 1973 dodge dart that weighed 3520 with me in it and ran 6.80 in the 1/8 at 102 mph on 93 pump gas. the engine was pretty close to yours except i had a better set of heads. here is what the engine had in it.
my compression came out to 10.8 and i have 184 PSI cranking compression.

.030 over steel crank 440
wisco pro-true forged flat top pistons i think around .006 in the hole
eagle rods
Dewayne of porter racing heads did a awesome job of selecting me a solid roller cam to go with the stock port Indy EZ heads i got from him.the cam is a roller version of the mopar 590 solid cam

cam comp solid roller 264 at 0.050 and 590 lift
i ran crane gold 1.6 roller rockers
Stock port Indy EZ heads. I ran out of money so Dewayne checked the valve guides ,ground the valve seats and did a very ,very light bowl port on them.
2 inch tti headers
wieand tunnel-ram with 2 750 dp Holley's
dynamic 9.5 inch stall converter that stalled round 4200.which was the wrong one for the cam i had, but i dint have the money for a good one at the time.
4.10 and 4.30 gears
M/T ET street drag radials. in 275/60/15 which is about a 28x9 slick
I let me friend drive the car at the time that weighed 100 pounds less than i do and he ran 3 back to back 10.49 in the 1/4

well before i sold the dart i put in a 8 inch ATI converter that stalled around 5400 and a 3.5 inch exhaust so i could drive it on the street. Man the car was a hole different animal, on the street it was a whole different car and i think with some tuning the dart would of ran some low 10.40 or high 10.30 in the 1/4. also i never did get to do much tuning when i had the 9.5 converter in the car so who knows how much faster it would of been. well sorry for such a long post, i think your car would run a lot better with a better set of heads and a converter matched to your engine set up. mopar65

Nice Charger!
Looks like I need better traction

How can you all be so fast?

Here's manufacturers flow chart. A friend flowed them and compared to his Edelbrock RPM's they flowed a little more. His RPM's are just cleaned up a little. Don't have his chart.

Thanks for your detailed answer!
I thought my 10" was loose, but the more I read your inputs I realize it's not.
I have sent SMR Transmission a quote, will be interesting what they'll come up with. I'll keep you posted.

Now I'm a little confused. This is the answer from SMR:

Thanks for your interest in the premium quality transmission products of SMR Transmissions and Converters specializing only in Chrysler products. We take great pride in the design and/or building of every transmission and converter to meet the specific needs of your application to provide the ultimate in reliability, performance and efficiency.

Having reviewed your tech sheet and the information provided, I recommend that we provide a 9 inch custom built, torque converter for your 20% street/80% strip '72 446 cu. in. Charger. With an operating range of 3200-7000 rpm, our custom built Competition Eliminator 9" will provide maximum torque multiplication at a flash stall* of 4200 rpm. without loss of high r.p.m. efficiency to maximize e.t. potential. Your shift points should occur at approximately 6900 rpm.
*flash stall occurs from a dead stop, full throttle launch - without tire spin and can only be determined by reading a data recorder or playback tach.

This custom built converter, is constructed with a special competition stator, the super duty forged steel drive hub (input shaft spline), inner and outer sprag races, heavy duty sprag, alloy drive tube, triple Torrington bearings, full furnace brazing, internal and external balancing, a Billet Steel front cover, pilot and mounting pads and much more, to provide maximum e.t. potential and superb reliability under the extreme that you will be subjecting it to.

With your current investment in quality components, this premium quality converter will allow you to obtain the maximum performance potential from your Charger while obtaining satisfactory street driving and allow you the enjoyment of having un-matched reliability.



Your Cost

SMR COMPETITION ELIMINATOR M/T 9 " Custom Built Race Converter as described $1,379.70



All prices are in U.S. currency, shipping charges extra.

Regards,

Pat Storey
SMR TRANSMISSIONS and CONVERTERS

Holy crap...no way that combo needs an almost $1400 converter!!!!!!!!

The one in my street/strip 1,000+ hp 8 sec car cost a little over half that.
Give Ultimate Converters a call.

I agree Lenny redid my 8 inch ATI in the 73 dart

I better buy three before they raise the price!

I'm waiting for a reply from Ultimate.

Okay, it seems like I have to keep my converter for a while...
This is what I got from Ultimate:

Hi Ulf, I would recommend our Billet 9.5 TF727 race converter for your application, approx. stall to be 38-4200. Great street manners also, it will drive very well on the street with no heat issues at all, but at WOT it will flash to the recommended stall speed, very quick and durable. This converter has a one piece billet front cover, furnace brazed and brazed on all the fin tips, triple bearing s, antiballooning flange on pump cover and alum stator with 8 element sprag. I also build these with billet stator and 10 strut Mechanical diodes. They come with a one year guarantee and one free stall adjustment , if needed. I build each converter myself per application, assuring you the right converter the first time, very important when going overseas. Your cost on the converter is $925, with the Mech diode set up, it is $1295 plus shipping. Thank you for your interest in Ultimate.

Thank You,
Lenny Croteau
Ultimate Converter Concepts
Phone: 704-892-6837

Check with PTC. They were extremely reasonable on the 9.5 I bought from them.

Have just filled in their spec sheet, thanks

Uumm, on your other thread the converter in the pics is an 8" munsinger.
Is that what was in the car?

Yes it is in my car... I thought I had a 10" in it... Sorry, too many things going on maybe
What stall could I have with it?

well to save some money call and talk to Lenny about redoing the one you have now. I sent him my 8 inch ATI and i think it around 300+ maybe shipping to have him go through mine. he checked it over to make sure it wasn't damaged etc and changed the stall speed for me. I bought the ATI used and in my car was stalling way to much.Lenny fixed it to wear should of been in my car. well it sounds like two of them are recommending the stall speeds around 3800-4200.
also what does the one you have stall now? i ask becasue i traded for a supposedly built 8 inch 5500 converter for my 65 Big block Plymouth II B-body. well that converter was junk it felt like you was pulling a stump all the time. The best the car would run at Gateway that time was a 11.19 at 119 mph in the 1/4. So a few weeks latter i traded a friend of mine out of a 8 inch Turbo-action converter.all i did was change converters and my 65 went from low elevens in the 1/4 to 10.56 at 125 in the 1/4. Now i am not saying that the same thing wont happen to you, it might but you wont know till you try. was just trying to show you how a bad converter can make a car act.Best of luck to you Bobby

I feel like a high dollar billet race converter w/ a mechanical diode is overkill for this particular car.

The heads has arrived! I haven't had any time for a closer look but after a quick look they look fine. Will try to upload some pics later.
I need advice for spring selection. I don't know much about this topic. Anyone know about any good article?

Which heads did you go with?

I think they are called Sidewinders in the US. I got them from a company here in Sweden who gets them directly from the manufacturer. There's no name on the box or on the heads.

One more

Manufacturers specs

Finally got the time to get those 906's off and do the measurements.
I'll take it from start so you don't have to go back:
440” bored .030
JE (5cc valve relief) pistons .012 under deck
alu .022 compressed head gasket
906 heads measured yesterday to 79cc
That gives me 10.94:1 static compression. Correct me if I’m wrong.
No signs of pingin on piston tops or in combustion chambers.

I have been running expensive alkylate 100 octane gas just because the cylinder pressure was close to 200 psi after I put the cam in.
(I lost my notes and I couldn't remember the compression ratio)

Before I removed the heads I redid a compression test and again got 190-205 psi (cold engine) on all cylinders. Intake and headers removed, all plugs out, "hi torque" cheapo mini starter.

How can I get such a high cyl pressure with Hughes cam HTL5256BS installed at zero?

That sounds about right to me.
My 383, 10.75cr, 256/262-106 cam in at 102....... Around 190-200 psi.

Todd @ Moparts sells the Sidewinders . Put a set of max wedge ones on a friends 440 . Going good so far . Have not dynoed or raced it yet .

Tex

After chatting with Dave @ Hughes it stands clear that I must have screwed up and installed the cam advanced. Cam has 4 deg "built in" the grinding and I probably forgot at some point when I degreed it. I have also been running with too much lash from looking at wrong spec sheet.
What an idiot huh!

Now when I'm going with aluminum heads 200 psi would be a good number, but with the combo I have an advanced cam will slow my car down.

Let me hear you experienced racers and engine builders opinions on cam choice. Just set my cam at zero, or get a bigger cam?

I'll repeat the specs below. The only thing that's unknown is the cars weight. Someone here might be able to estimate it?


1972 Charger
Fenders and both bumpers including brackets fiberglass, plastic 72 grille, 71 R/T rear lights, no back seat, carpet or heater box. Lightweight plastic racing seats, original front door panels and original dash is all that's in there.
Lights, wipers and everything works. All original glass.

Add the weight from some bars since I will have to install some now.

Welded in subframe connectors, Comp Eng Slide-A-Link bars, 318 torsion bars, Comp Eng 90/10 front and race shocks in rear. Front disc brakes. Power brakes with vacuum pump. Cold air T/A style scoop.

440 .030 over, top decked, fully balanced steel crank with
JE custom flat top pistons .012 under cyl deck,
Hughes solid cam HTL5256BS (610/614 w/1.6 rockers, 252/256deg, 108 deg lobe sep angle).
Sidewinder heads, 2.14/1.81 valves. Comparable to ported Edelbrock RPM's in flow numbers. 84cc but will probably have to mill them down a little when I know what cam to use.
Harland Sharp 1.6 rockers
M1 intake
950 Holley DP
tti 2" O.D. tubes with 3-1/2" collectors extended around 18",
I have modified an universal crank trigger ignition with dual coils, fully adjustable. 10 deg at start and a flat curve running, seems like it likes 36 deg best. Big difference compared to the MSD I ditched. No splutter, no missing, fires right up and steady readings!
Man valve Th 727, 8" Munsinger converter
4.30 Sure Grip
Best 1/8 ET 7.32/95.3 mph, 1.662 60' on 9" slicks, slippery track.

Well I can tell you that my '69 cuda 446ci at approx 10:1CR went from 11.3@118 with stock 906's to 10.7@125 with no other mods than fitting TP 2.14/1.81 906's that I bet didn't flow much more than 260cfm, and I only ran it the once before hitting it with spray, reckon it could've gone in the 10.5's with some tweaking. I did run a .650/290@.050 solid FT cam and because of that I bet nowhere near your 200psi CP, I probably would've made more power with a cam with less dur. and an earlier closing intake valve, comp is not all of the story. That would 99.9% be a Chinese made Head, those 294cfm numbers are rather happy numbers if they are OOTB, Eddys don't flow that much, probably where Jegs get their heads from. Even if they manage 275cfm its gonna make you fly.

You dont state the stall on the conv.. but if
you dont advance that cam you will be slower...
you need all the help you can down low in the RPM
and your headers are big for it... whats your max RPM
when you cross the line.. and what gear are you in..
if your in high gear I expect you have low RPM

I'm an amateur porter with now flow bench but I'm doing my very best to make the heads look better by blending bowls and matching to intake, has also back cut intake valves and will do a 3- or 4-deg seat job. They are Eddy copies from China, correct
See pics above in this thread. Will upload some after porting when I'm done.
I'm really looking forward to see if they can make me fly!

You dont state the stall on the conv.. but if
you dont advance that cam you will be slower...
you need all the help you can down low in the RPM
and your headers are big for it... whats your max RPM
when you cross the line.. and what gear are you in..
if your in high gear I expect you have low RPM
[/quote]

I didn't state stall because I don't know for sure. If I'd guess I'd say around 4,200 but that's just my guess.
Maybe I should aim for 78-79cc when I mill the heads and leave the cam as it is (probably 4 deg advanced) and stay with 200 psi?
With a tighter lash things will change a little in both ends.

I'm just an amateur with a very bad memory so I don't remember rpm crossing finish line... :s but I'm in 3:rd gear and rps are at least at 5,500 or even higher if I recall correctly...

The cam timing should be checked. Thinking it's "advanced" because you may used a different position on the timing set doesn't tell you anything.

Rechecking the intake centerline is the only way to know where it really is, and then make an educated decision on whether to leave it where it is or move it.

Assuming the cam has a 108lsa, If it's in at 104-106 I'd leave it.

That is a 1971 Charger, not a 1972

Haha, no my car is a 72 canopy top, but I wanted it to look like a 71 so I put 71 side markers and tail lights on. If you look close you can see that they're not flush with the fenders Couldn't find R/T doors so I can't say it's a 71 R/T clone.
Like the 72 grille better and kept the wide moldings under the side glass.

Well to do a bit bench racing for you, your 7.32@95.3 1/8th is approx an 11.6@118 1/4. I am having to guess the weight of your car at 3800 with you in it? so that gives you currently 511fly hp with those 906 heads.

Bolting on those sidewinders at 84cc will drop your comp a bit if you don't mill them to 79cc but no matter, if they really flow 290cfm I would think conservatively you would get around an 80hp increase over stock 906's which should give you 590 fly hp, that in a 3800lb car should run around 6.80@100mph in the 1/8th, or 10.84@124 in the 1/4. Only numbers but the Wallace Calc has been pretty accurate for my cars against my 1/4 mile timeslips. Good luck with it.

I'm still impressed with how well it ran with stock 906s

Actually, he said they were "cleaned up a bit", and have 2.14/1.81 valves....... So, not "stock".

I think I'll stay with the cam and mill the heads a little to get them down to 78cc (similar to my 906's) so it will be very interesting to see how much just the heads do.
I have talked to a friends friend with a flow bench and he's interested to see how much we can improve the heads with some work. I have already ported one head on the exhaust side but we can compare it with the unported. My problem is to find the time to go there since he is three hours away...
Thanks for your help!

I would stay with the cam in it, mill the heads a few CC smaller than the 906s and let it eat. With aluminum heads and tight quench it will be fine on 93 or so octane. If you need more later than send the converter out for a little more stall. With the much better flowing heads you will need to bump up the shift point but you shouldn't lose much if any down low. 50# off the front will help the 60 FT.

I don't have any idea what the motor made before, but something around 500hp certainly seems about right for that combo.
Sidewinders don't flow 290cfm ootb, but can pretty easily without too much work.
Although, even with them flowing 290, that combo on our dyno would be very hard pressed to make 590hp.
I've built and dynoed several stock stroke 440's over the years that approached(or exceeded) the 600hp mark, and they all had quite a bit more duration than the OP's cam.
Depending on just how good the heads end up being, and what the final CR is, I'd say more like the 560hp range is more realistic.
Which....... If the car was set up properly, would get it into the 10's.

As usual I end up working with my cars some months too late...
Finally I am in the process of shaving the heads to get the CR up. After reading your comments I think getting close to 76cc would be safe.
My question is if the first .010 you shave off the volume decreases with appr. 2.5cc, how much does the next .010 affect cc?
Help, I need the formula

Roughly, .006" removed per cc

I followed your advice, stayed with the cam and milled the new heads to 11,55:1
Made a few 1/8 passes yesterday and engine runs like a dream BUT now the converter stalls 5,600 rpms!
Could not shift fast enough, was hitting rev stop so I raised it from 6,300 to 6,800 (stock rods) but was a half second slower, no traction (1,9-ish 60-ft) but same speed. Was confused... Stopped, put in third gear, foot hard on brake and then gas pedal down while I looked on tach. Couldn't hold the car still, front runners was sliding. Did it four times and same result, tach did stop at 5,600 every time.
How is this possible?
Do I need a new converter? Or can it be modified? What should I look for?

If it's an 8" converter(which is what I think you said it was), then that's about where it would stall.
It can be tightened up, but I think in the long run you'd be better off leaving it as is and installing a longer duration cam( and aftermarket rods).

The 8" behind my 383 stalled 5400...... And it worked great!!

I'd start working on sorting out the 60' issue...... Less stall won't really "fix" whatever the problem is there.

I guess you're right. It's time to look over and go through the 440 anyway. It deserves better rods and by then a hotter cam would be interesting.