Tool for cutting braided stainless steel hose?

I am pretty sure It is time to change the braided lines on my injection system. What is the life span of this stuff? It is Earls regular braided stainless steel hose. I am also looking for a cutting tool that will last, any suggestions?

I use my 10-12" abrasive chop saw on all sizes of braided lines, after I tape them with the correct tape. Then clean out the inside with a parts washer with mineral spirits before I assemble the ends.

Made over 50 lines easy that way. Makes a super clean straight cut and I use a tool I already own.

I replaced all my braided lines every 2 seasons, methanol is hard on lines.

One plugged nozzle caused me a torched block, piston and head not to mention everything behind the engine burned up. IE wiring, Data cables, trans blanket and much more$
I raced with methanol for 15 years, 8 with a TAD.

No front brakes and no throttle/rpm limiter.

4-6" cut-off wheel in my 4" angle grinder with gorilla tape.

This works much nicer than a chop saw or cut off wheel since it compresses the end at the same time it cuts. Makes it easier to assemble the ends.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900040

Like the idea of not having to clean out the inside of the hose with that tool.

That's what I use, looks to be same as a large diameter electricians cable cutter for like 4/0+, but needs to be sharp.

Yep, the big electrical cable cutters. Go to a real commercial electrical supply house and get a big, good quality set. You can keep them sharp with a fine round file, or tootsie roll. Cuts like butter, no dust, or frayed ends. No need to tape, and they actually make it easier to get the outer part of the fitting on since they kind of radially compress the cut edge. You'll never want to cut them any other way again.

On any fuel lines I like to use the TFE (teflon)lined stainless hoses. It last a lot longer than neopreme or viton line SS covered hoses, high temp. rated, high pressure and much better cororieve(SP?) resistance It used extensivelally in combat aircraft as well as other combat military applications

^^^^^^^^While all that is true.......it is also true that Teflon lined hose is heavy, not very flexible and both the hose and ends are expensive.

I haven't weighed a foot of each type hose of the same sizez with aluminum ends on them so I don't really know about the weights of each, the TFE is usually a lot smaller O.D. than the non TFE hoses of the same size and your correct on the flexability of them, not good for sharp corners so I try to use 90 degree elbows ends for those applications.

Personally, I only use TFE for brake, clutch or nitrous lines.

I have also gotten away from the steel braided stuff period and gone to the black nylon outer braided hose. It's much lighter, has the same core and as an added bonus, you don't bleed after assembling ends on it..........LOL!!!

^ x 1000

Thanks, guys. I won't say how long it has been since my lines were changed, but they are waaaaaay over due. The cutter is the way I will go, because like Challenger I also plugged a couple of nozzles trying to use a chop saw. Even after a good cleaning with a bore brush and solvent, something stayed behind.

Yea I can't see having steel fittings on all my lines, would weigh too much, plus they only make it up to #6, what do you do on dry sumps and larger fuel lines.

My problem came from a corroded fitting, not the hose or when the hose was made. Fittings and hose need to replaced after some time. The white stuff stuck in your nozzle is fitting not hose.

I tried a shear years ago to cut hose, like said above it has to be really sharp, if not then your better off with a chop saw IMO.

Only thing I use now!! Little tough on AN-12

I use a sharp knife and a hammer. Put the hose on a piece of lead for the knife when it cuts through. I have my own tool for sharpening knifes with fixture for angles and leather polishing.

I have done it with a fine blade hack saw, pulling the blade backwards.

DITTO...........Plus I cut mine w/scissors or pvc cutters w/ease.......I now use the Earls lightweight hose and fittings $$$$$$

I know LOTS of people still like and use the braided line with the red/blue ends and I myself, have totes full of lines like that. But these days, I don't know, I guess it just strikes me as very 80s on the look, plus the stuff is heavy and harder to work with. Especially if you have a car with LOTS of plumbing, that look is just very "busy" to me now. While I still do at times use a colored fitting now, it is usually black ends on black hose

BTW,with that black nylon hose, you can use the same fittings that you were using on the braided line, and price wise its almost the same.

I have the lined nylon hoses an it bends very easy! Have a shop press the fittings on, it will never leak or come apart. Fittings come in polished, black and red/blue. And no punctured fingertips!

I have been wraping the lines with electrical tape and using the small cutoff wheels on a Dremel tool. The hose cutter looks like it would be alot quicker. With the nylon covered hose, I just use a razor blade.

The Teflon lined stuff is expensive and does not flex.

I cut all stainless hose with this:
Summit Hose Cutter
Bought it 10 years ago and never missed a beat. Also the cleanest way you can cut them.

If I was building from scratch I would definitely use lighter nylon braided hose. I just have too much braided stainless and red/blue fittings change to something more modern.

I use these to assemble braided lines.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/kts-416/overview/
I don't stick my fingers anymore. Well worth the price.

Digger73 (Mike)

This is what I use too. Easiest and cleanest way to do it IMO.

Good to know. Thanks.

I don't like mine, gets dull real easy.

By far the easiest and cleanest way is to use the method shown on the Earl's website. They use a large sharp masonry chisel, a 5 lbs maul and a small flat block of brass.

One good hit is all it takes to cleanly and instantly cut any braided line.

I was shocked when I watched how easy it is to do on their video. They cut all of their lines this way. It leaves the hose clean and the ends perfectly formed with no taping required.

A sharp chisel and a block of wood. Works very well. Clean cut and no burrs.

I first saw it done this way over 35 years ago. I can't imagine doing it any other way.

I won't be of much help in this thread since these days I use the black hose. But back in the day when I did use steel braided hose I had the local hose shop make up the lines for me. They have some nice equipment for building hoses since that is what they do all day long. It only costs a few bucks per hose for assembly and pressure check.

I did have some issues with "white scum" but that was later. I went to Klotz fuel lube and haven't had any maintenance issues since, which is maybe fifteen years ago. The plugged nozzles were plugged with black bits of rubber from cutting the hose.

The method that provided a good quick and clean cut at my old shop was a circular knife. Depending on the number of assemblies you need to build...it might be worth buying such a blade and putting it in your table saw. Cuts like butter.

That tool is akin to cheating. I wrap some masking tape around where the cut is to be made and usually leave the tape there as I put on the fitting, which eliminates any of the wires coming loose. Don't forget to oil the part that goes into the tube.

I use an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel. I've found that if you get real aggressive you'll have wires sticking out, but if you go slow there is less chance of wires sticking out. Any wires are ground off with just a LIGHT touch of the wheel. I would buy the tool if I did it often.