aluminum world block question. And Lash/results hot

We torqued my indy heads on to my world aluminum block the other night and my machinist was wondering if there was any thing we should know. always been to iron blocks.

So 1105 composition gasket and ARP studs think he went 30/50/80 what he used when torque plating it. (12.5 to 1 compression)

Any observations would be appreciated. guess vale lash has to be tight cold as well?? .005?

Thanks in advance.

On my Indy heads to Indy block I went 30/50/70.

Valve lash I went 14 tight when cold....

IMO 70 or 80 ft-lbs is fine, I would prefer 80 with a composition head gasket, as they tend to need retorque after a heat cycle.

For valve lash with the aluminum block and aluminum heads combined, I suggest at least 0.010" tighter cold (75F) and as much as 0.015" for a starting point is reasonable. Hopefully your cam is designed for enough hot lash so it is OK on cold start being tighter.
e.g. 0.028" hot lash might be around 0.015" cold (75F)

i do as the others have done. 40/60/75 & set my 0.028 hot lash @ 0.016 cold.

Thanks have heard guys go as tight as .005 with aluminum Block and Indy heads guess I'll try .005/.010 or .008/.013 Cam card says .018/.022 hot lash.

Guess at least once warm up and pull valve cover and check 2 aluminum starts to shrink real quick

Thanks again.

check heads cold to hot twice with these heads and stock iron block , had cover ready to come off shut off pull cover did right away and intake opened .010 and exhaust .008 .

Decided to go .005 intake and .008 exhaust at 72 degrees so I'll see how much the aluminum block and heads outgrow the pushrods hot soon enough.
Thanks again.

My KB block/MP head hemi's lash grows .013" cold to hot.

Thanks if mine only grows .013 I'll be spot on hot Indy heads may be a tad taller so more grow??

Well mine opened up .020 72 F to 185 F running. set it .005 intake and .008 exhaust and after hot had valve cover ready to pull quick. got back to 185 and it was .025 intake and .028 exhaust i can live with that.

three full power runs 9.98 @ 133.7 next going right let up then 3rd run 9.93 @ 134.65 on pump gas then installed throttle stop 10.59 @ 126 6.76 1/8 for my nostalgia class which is 6.75 to 7.69 1/8 and 10.5 to 11.99 1/4. running 1/8 last and next week end.
12.5 to 1 on 94 ultra jetted up on wheel dyno as leaning past 6500 got to work on getting old 9375 2 circuit to lean out bottom end and richen up top end.

won my class sunday 6.78 on 6.77 dial. :-)

It is amazing how much things grow. And since your cam was designed with a fairly tight lash (0.018/0.022), you don't have much room to tighten it up before you hit zero lash when cold.

I didn't see that much on my low deck KB block and 440-1 heads, but getting the oil hot as well as the water and then doing the check quickly can make a difference.

Those old dommys need a bunch of help and I can hook you up if you`d like and rich low lean up top are typical issues.

I can tell you that my B1/KB deal we had basically no lash cold, and if it was really cold out starting it was no bueno. We had a race in Salt Lake a couple of years ago in late September and it was in the high 30's in the morning and there was no way my car was starting. We had to jerry rig a halogen worklight under the car and wrap the motor in blankets to get it warm enough in the trailer to start the car.

Thats why I use block heater in alum blocks!

I just can't understand why there is this ongoing search for the cold lash formula--Warm it up set the lash and when it is cold well...There is the cold number--which BTW is NOT a promise it will be right when warm--Race engines need the lash set when hot--Period! It is overrated--as long as it has enough so the valve closes then you don't have an issue--too tight and car runs great only a few tenths off---don't give me all that bull about lobe ramps etc --it comes down to enough to get the valve shut and not so much it rattles and bangs parts together--you guys put way too much faith into what cam makers "claim"

I don't agree. I believe hot is inaccurate. Temp change moves around to much while adjusting. Lash them cold, check them hot, get a number. Then recheck cold. Now you have a baseline. Make incremental changes cold until you produce the best results. Whether it be a little tighter or looser than the called out specs will make little difference. At least all 8 intakes and all 8 exhaust will be at the same number.
Doug

Agreed.............I use to watch guys hustle at the track chasing valves after warming the engine then fly through em while the engine is cooling down. Then warm again to do the other side. Simple, set em cold, warm the motor up to the operating range you drive/race in, check em hot and there`s your two averages and I`ve NEVER lost a cam. In my case iron block alum. heads .014 cold gets me .020 hot give or take .001 which don`t mean squat.......

That is a good reason to select a cam with ramps designed for enough lash so that a cold engine (aluminum block and heads) still is not zero lash.

A cam designed for 0.016/0.018 hot lash is fine for an iron block, but I like more hot lash for a combo with aluminum block and heads. I wondered why some cams were designed for "tons" of lash, 0.024/0.028, and now that I run an aluminum block I am happy to have one.

Thanks guys cold setting is much nicer and relaxing. :-) I just wanted a ball park and check well warmed to see where they went cold to race ready. would like tighter lash but it can get cold up here!! Who with a shaft rocker system does the lash at the track??

I did that full valve lift rotate 360 crank and set one 90 deg 8 90 4 intake then same on exhaust that is slick and less confusing checked with all the other methods and it was bang on. did notice roller cams are wide open a long time. ( AMC guy suggestion in weird lash result post?)

Will have to learn how to adjust the rich low and lean high myself as up hear in Canada sending things and getting back $$$ makes you sit funny. Thank god Summit and Jegs have landed costs Fed X as UPS robs you for broker fees and sky hi shipping!

Hope to do a couple full throttle 1/4's friday night and full throttle 1/8 racing sat sunday as past two weeks had to throttle stop it to 6.75 1/8 (10.50 when we run 1/4) as that's as fast as i can go in my nostalgia class and I think I'm now leading points with one race to go.

My world aluminum block lash I set at .006 cold and it grows to .018 where the cam calls for.

I prefer tight lash cams. We don't race very often when it is cold, generally quite the opposite in fact. I will continue to just use my halogen light warmer if needed. We do heat the oil but it does nothing to change the lash settings in the motor when the water is cold. Not a big deal to me. I don't need to start the car that cold very often. Of course where it is now it may be a much bigger issue.