Slowing down for a index class...........

Ok , my best ET this year was a 6.21. I have been thinking about trying index racing at one of my local tracks. They have 6.0,7.0,8.0 and 9.0. I am too slow for 6.0 and wondering if I can slow down enough to run 7.00. I would think I need full throttle to cut a decent reaction time on the 4 tenths pro tree,I am foot braking. This Wednesday I am going to T&T and try to figure out if I can slow down enough to run 7.00. Is it possible to lower my shift point enough to run 7.00. I shift at 6800 rpm now and I have a 5800 rpm chip I am going to try. Does any body have any ideas?

http://www.colemanracing.com/Carburetor-Spacer-Adjustable-P3694.aspx

Thanks for the reply but I am not spending anywhere near that kind of money to slow down . I could put that money on going 6.0.

http://etgenie.com/

thinking if you get "creative".... you could make a restrictor that would put you in the ball park

Just move the throttle cable... Cheap and easy.

Foot braking on a 4 tenths tree is bringing a knife toa gun fight. Adding in slowing down that much just compounds the problem. I would probably find something else to do, or run a brake

7.0 is a very competitive class, so whatever you do it better be good.

Then again so is 6.0...

What I did to slow my car down from 9.0 to 10.0
was make a mech throttle stop(pic) and changed the
launch rpm and shift rpm.. was deadly on 10.0 if
I could catch the light.. this was on a trans brake

That's the right way to do it.
Or you could just fill the bed up with railroad ties. If anybody says anything just tell them you were using your truck to do some landscaping.

What were the conditions when you ran that BEST ??? if it was mineshaft type conditions I wouldn't use that as the gauge unless that is always the conditions .

Me ... I would add weight, held securely of course, and run it out the back door. You can always remove a little weight to go faster if needed, and lift a tad if you are ahead just before the stripe.

I did it my way because I was racing 2 classes and
needed to change over in short order... weight was to
much of a problem... I could change the throttle stop
in less than a minute.. then it was change the rpm points..
this also allowed for the car to pick up if needed.. just
hold the shift rpm a little higher... if you have weight and
your slow.. your screwed(if during competition)

Lowering the shift points won't help much. I am familiar with some of the tracks you are talking about. It is a stupid idea to ask a 7.0 car to cut a .400 tree. A 7.0 car cuts a .500 tree, anything else is unnatural and will cost the competitor a lot to comply which doesn't help drag racing. You can slow down with timing.

I used to reduce timing 6° and shift 1500 Rpm lower to go 10.0 racing. I would also add some extra weight.

Just what Dizuster said.
I just started index racing in footbrake only classes. I'm racing with a lot of guys that have it down to a science (mostly by adding weights) and they are real good at it. I started by trying to adjust my shift points and actually did fairly well but not good enough against the hardcore index guys. At my last race the car ran two identical numbers during test & tune but it was running too slow. Then I realized I had been working on the top of my motor and when I reassembled it I forgot to adjust the throttle linkage. I adjusted the linkage correctly but after the race was over it hit me, adjust the throttle linkage to the index.

Want to slow your race car down? Have me tune it.

I realize moving the throttle cable would be the easiest way. I thought that I would need full throttle to help cut a better light since I am foot braking on a .400 tree. If everybody thinks that would not make any difference I will try it. I may try a combination of all the suggestions. A couple of years ago I broke the gears that I was running. I put a mini spool in a truck center section with 3.50 gears that I had so I could race the next weekend. At the next race after I did a burnout I pulled up to the line and forgot to put it back in first. I made that pass starting off in 3rd gear and ran the whole 1/8 in high gear. It still ran a 6.94 and I am running 30in. tall tires. I have 4.56's under it now.
I think it is going to be hard to slow it down that much...

Undo the secondaries

Well I went to T&T tonight and did not accomplish much. The air was bad and my 60 ft. times were bad. I made 2 passes with every thing the same as usual and ran a 6.36 and 6.37 at 108 mph with the normal 6800 chip in the shifter. I stuck a 7200 chip in to see what it would do. I have never shifted that high before. It ran a 6.33 shifting at 7200. Then I put a 5800 in and for some reason it did not shift into high and ran a 6.51 at 98 mph. It was turning a lot of RPM down toward the finish line in 2nd, I kept pulling the shifter back but it did not shift. So I believe it would have ran faster than the 6.51 if it would of shifted. So I am going to have to move the throttle or back timing down to slow down if it even will slow down that much to run 7.00.

First of all put in it deep. That will slow it. Then move the cable. Dizuster was tuning my N/SS car this way when he was still in High school. We could make a car that could run 10.30's go 11.0 in 3 time runs. Adding a stop bolt for fine tuning is the ticket.It cuts the same R/T open or shut.
Doug

I have heard deep staging will slow your ET around a 10th. I am not sure it still is but deep staging use to be illegal. Back in the 90's when 6.0 and 7.0 first started nobody was running a transbrake and one guy would do a burnout past the starting line then back into the lights. That is as deep as you can get. That is when they banned deep staging.

With the set up I was running I ran 6 identical ETs
that day 10.006... ET based on the closest to 10.000 set your
line up position ... I ended up 2nd that day... I ended
up red lighting after the 5th round