Intermediate shaft movement?

When using a spacer or a set screw collar to limit Intermediate shaft movement, I would think one would want some clearance. Who has done this and what kind of clearance did you end up with using? ( By clearance I mean the shaft can move up a little like .020 or something????????)

When I do it I put the collar on it just snug so it can just
move... then I put it in and clamp it down(the dist hold down)
then pull the dist out and measure the collar to the end of
the shaft.. move the collar so I have .015 clearance.. tighten
the collar and put the dist back in and set the timing

Mike where can I get a collar? I timed the Dart Friday and noticed a small amount of spark scatter...I'd like to see if I can eliminate it...

You might try the hardware store... or Graingers

I used a old dist/bushing and tapped it for a set screw and Loctite

Or McMaster-Carr

http://www.mcmaster.com/#shaft-collars/=x528wb

Tractor supply

does the collar go on the distributor shaft?and whats the procedure for properly installing it?is the collar eliminating most of the upward movement of the intermediate shaft and distributor shaft?and what are the benefits of the collar?sorry d just curious on this post is all.thanks

As the intermediate shaft lifts up(due to the angle on the gear) it
rotates and turns the dist shaft.. in turn changes the timing.. when
you put the collar on it you basically lift the dist shaft and clamp
it tight.. this eliminates the intermediate shaft from lifting and
turning the dist
EDIT
just a little info
as the engine is accelerating the intermediate shaft is pulled
down and you wont get the timing variation.. once its done
accelerating then the load is taken off the intermediate shaft
and will lift... same on decel.. the valve springs kick the cam
back and forth which jumps the shaft up and down changing the
timing

whats the proper way to install the collar then?

Read this post.. I wrote how I do it

ok mike just read the upper post.so it goes on the lower part of the distributor shaft.lightly snug collar, tighten dist down,pull out,add.015 to dim.and thats it?

You got it.. just that simple

Anybody got a part number for the collar? I'm not much for 'pokin and hopin' if I can help it.

Sorry.. no I dont.. never thought about writing the number down
I just get the 1/2" ID one.. then touch the faces on the belt
sander the shaft is just under 1/2" OD

Ace Hardware stores and tractor supply stores in my area stock them

i just saw this post after i posted in the general section. same issue. i'm putting together a prestolite dual point, and have .053 up and down movement. i could look for a locking collar, but what about just finding another washer to put between the collar and the existing washer?

You can get the collar from Tractor Supply for like $1.50. Or you can pay for a "specific" Mopar shaft collar off ebay for $16.88, lol.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Distributo...tr#ht_792wt_867

The problem is that the end of the distributor doesn't bottom out in the intermediate shaft slot. The intermediate shaft can still move up and down due to the clearance between the two parts. The shaft collar fixes that.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#6462k16/=x5fk2w this worked for me

You could also make one on the lathe.

All the sources listed above are for 1/2" ID collars. Mine are machined the correct ID for the Mopar shaft size. A 1/2" ID collar is not made to tighten to +/- .485 .

speedway mtrs (1 mile from me) has a kit of 1/2" ID washers of varying thicknesses for a few dollars (flat with no sharp edge on one side). You want to shim the collar with the roll pin so you are down to .005" axial play and peen the dist lower shaft tang so their is no rotational play in the rotor (lower shaft), check by twisting the rotor back & forth (before and after you add the collar) LIGHTLY just not enough to get into the springs & see how much you are dealing with. Also you can shim under the mini clip on top a bit so the slot will not come off of the pins which is helpfull when removeing the reluctor cuz having the slot plate and the flat plates and the rotor all coming out as an assy makes it much harder to then remove the reluctor with the assy out of the dist & it in your hand. If you dont press down on the top shaft when removing the reluctor & it comes off of the pins then you know what I mean. You need some clearance there so you can get the C clip in/out but you can reduce it. I ain't done it yet but adding a cup oiler on the side I think is a good idea & they are available seperately. last would be to mod the magnet & possibly the plate hole location for the can arm so there is minimal gap change as the can shifts the plate, Nacho got it down to .001" not sure exactly how he did it but its on my list.