TF904 Transmission disgusts

Man I don't know if it's just me or what, but, I've asked this question before about which transmission would be a better choice for my 68' Barracuda 480 hp w/ 525 tq. Many of you suggested the TF904 over the TF727 from past experience usage or currently running one now. You had good points why the 904 was better, but one thing that I am finding out now is, the shop where my tranny is now getting looked at is telling me that I need about $5300.00 to get a good transmission that would hold up to my engine specs. With my sticker shock, I got online and filled out a spec sheet from another reputable transmission shop, they quoted me $5200.00.. Man I may need to look at the 727 which will not be as expensive or do a turbo 350 adaptor kit. Can someone lead me in a not so expensive direction on a good unit? More thoughts, please. Thx

contact john at cope racing transmission,a whole lot cheaper and well built trannys.

Thanks hp340nos

Your tranny shop is full of crap.
The parts for my 904 from John Cope was 600.00 dollars.
After 9500 miles and 65 drag strip passes my trans looks like new inside, but then again my 3400lbs car only ran very low 11s.

At 480 hp w/ 525tq if you are having problems you are at the wrong shop!
Like it was said call Cope https://www.coperacingtrans.com/index.php?osCsid=7bab261d332939f1f23ec046f4df409e

Or Protrans http://www.protransracing.com/

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=256475&highlight=904+Recipe

Wow !!! He is a very happy fellow !!!

606hp in my 67 barracuda 553lbs tq

I got a spring pack, a kick douwn lever, steel planetary from an a-998,
5 disc clutch, and I've been running my 904 for 3 years now with no issues..
the whole thing with a valve body cost me around 1200$

Dan

Been running mine for decades with a tranzbrake with stock internals and except for the converter hub cracking twice (which I have now remedied) it's been trouble free.

I'll sell you the 727 out of my car for half that, and I'll freshen it up first. Those trans shops must not know how to build Mopar transmissions.

Yeah, like everyone is saying. A bone stock properly built 727 would take that power forever. Put a good drum in one and go cat go.Call Cope trans, 727 specialist, ect.

Or get a stock t400, an ultra bell, a crank adapter, and flywheel. Then if you ever break anything you'll have a hundred overnight parts options available, and a thousand builders nation wide to choose from.

A 904 would be my first choice, too, But would need a bit of extra attention to detail and a few better parts to give extended service with your engine. That would cost some more money.

A 727 would handle your power with just good stock parts and a shift kit, so it might be a bit cheaper. There are tons of local re-builders that can give you a quality re-build on these trannies. Our local guy will re-build them for $1,000 or so depending on parts.

I run a basically stock 727 and I think I am making abou 600 flywheel hp and I use Mopar clutches and steels since I worked at a Dodge dealer for 24 years I have a few Mopar clutch plates and steels in my stock. And they hold up fine in my trans as this 727 has been in my car since 2006. I added a manual V/B and a bolt in sprag along with a Dynamic conveter. I look at it like yes the 904 is faster but for my street car where I am not out to set a record I prefer the tuffness of the 727. Ron

x2

I built a 904 thinking it was all I would need, now I am here wishing I built a 727 for my heavy sb, nitrous car. I have to give a lot of attention to the 904, and I am crossing my fingers it lasts me this year. Then its either a 727 or a glide for me.

Run from Pro Trans...I called them when my car was still running mid 11's and they said I needed a $5000 904 to handle what I was doing...About $1000 worth of parts later and some of my own labour, I built a 904 that is holding up to more of a beating then what Pro Trans told me theres would, so take that for what its worth

mshred, I've been buying stuff from Dave Smith for years and have never had a issue with advise or parts purchased from him. Btw: All 904 stuff. A 904 is quicker/faster than a 727. I think its a trade off based on power. If you put 1000 laps a year on your at the track chasing points and money build a 727 and never take it out. Doesn't mean a 904 won't do the same thing or the 727 won't break. I think that power (big) and vehicle weight (heavy)should be the factors to consider if your going to stay with a Mopar trans. End of Rant.

I am not knocking protrans products or transmission, just stating what I was told when I spoke with Dave directly...like I said, my 2 cents.

I agree that power and weight play a HUGE role in selecting a trans. Dave told me I needed a top of the line 904 to run low 11's at my weight...im going quite a bit faster now, with less parts, same weight, and off a brake on nitrous...so far, so good...keep my fingers crossed my luck doesnt run out! LOL

Thanks fellas, I'm gonna call CRT.

Don't give up on 904s I've got guys running them and they hold up great. One buddy's duster low 6s in the 1/8 with 1.30s 60ft times and I kid him from time to time asking if he wants to switch to a 727? Says, No way... Lol And they don't cost a fortune to make them hold up. Good luck!

I build the 904 for a customers mid 10 second 3200 lb Dart (among other similar cars) and the most exotic part in them is billet servos. I use billet servos and good friction parts, but the drums and 2.74/1.55 planetary sets are bone stock - including the fiber thrust washers. A good valve body is a MUST to put big power through a 904 (I like the A&A reverse/LBA, although a T/A Cheetah works well, too), but it's the same for a 727. The billet servos are needed because of the increased apply pressure to the bands. The converter drive issue is as simple as having your converter made with an A500 pump drive, and using an A500 pump gear. I do kind of cherry pick the cores, using the H/D case (easy to spot with the tailshaft extension housing retainer plate on top). If I'm bored I lighten the sun shell. It gets freshened about every 3-4 years (500+/- passes) with about $100 of new friction parts, but we have never broke a hard part - (can you say exploded 727 clutch drum?). So I can't fathom why you need a $5000+ trans - or a 727, for that matter.

You know that's the kinda stuff I need to hear and understand before I get taken to the wood shed and get bent. Thanks for all the input.

The link 70AARCuda posted has a solid build that is going good behind a 600hp SB at 3400#.

The black magic that builders try to sell you is BS. Get a video and book and build them yourself. Easier to do than an engine! Most all the parts anyone sells are nothing but reboxed/packaged parts you can buy from anywhere. It's a blast when you pay 2-3x for a set of teflon seals and they come in a bag with the same part number you can buy elsewhere for a bunch less. Makco/bulkpart and WIT are good sources.

Anyone that tries to sell you an alum drum for a 904 because of explosion risk, run forest run

Shop smart!

It's not rocket science, the 727 book is a great help and the clearance suggested apply to A904 transmissions. I have used Griner and CRT Valve bodies, they work great.

Started doing my own 904's after a trans shop close by didn't even get me to the shed before they bent me over, so now I do my own and with help from John Cope and Rick Allison of A@A I now have no 904 issues. with the proper selection of part's and some oiling mods mine have given me good service life.. one thing about cheeta trans brake VB's is you need to up the line pressure from what they build them at and they will work good and give you a VB that won't burn your cluches up, found out the hard way.

Use the 727 and go slower so what I got sick of the 904s coming apart under power from Mild 360 in a pig heavy car There is a .15 diff in times I can tell you that but 22 years on a 727 and still runs like crazy. Normal maintenance and ATF 4 Mopar fluid. The 904s were good for 800 miles and 5 to 10 passes and then broken to point of nothing salvageable except valve body

.....that's my concern too Paul. That's why our Duster has a 727. With the completion of our W5 mill when my dad was wheeling the car, the last thing I wanted was for him to have to babysit a transmission.... so 727 it was. Kind of the same reason we chit canned the 8.75 for the D60. Just one more thing on the "set it.... and forget it" list.

The 904 we have was behind our 10.9/low 11 iron head 360. It was built by Chuck Lofgren and other than the Griner trans brake, nothing real extravagant. I think it would be interesting behind our current W8 mill, although an expensive test as I'd need a converter, driveshaft, and imho... a good input shaft. Maybe someday...

I ran 904's for years with great luck. Best move I made was going to a A-1 brake when I was running my 725 hp W7 motor. The T/A brake would every once in a while creep on me and the A-1 never did that. With the A-1 brake, we added a billet input shaft from A-1 and other than an additional clutch and good parts, it ran great This was in a 2650 Cuda running low nines. Also had the stock 2.45 gear set.