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340 / 318 Crank question

Posted By: Budsworth

340 / 318 Crank question - 04/01/15 01:48 PM

I recently picked up a 69 340 with a "Noise" in the bottom end, When I tore it down I found this.. (See Image) Looks like a Castcrank in an early block. I have a "Steel Crank" from a 68 318 that has been ground .010/.010 would this be a good replacement for a mild street application.

Attached picture 8477341-IMG_0296.JPG
Posted By: MR_P_BODY

Re: 340 / 318 Crank question - 04/01/15 01:51 PM

Sure.. just check the balance on it
EDIT
What you have now is externally balanced with the conv
and the front balancer so you need to get a internally
balanced balancer and knock the weight off the conv
but I would still have it balanced
Posted By: Budsworth

Re: 340 / 318 Crank question - 04/01/15 02:55 PM

Quote:

Sure.. just check the balance on it
EDIT
What you have now is externally balanced with the conv
and the front balancer so you need to get a internally
balanced balancer and knock the weight off the conv
but I would still have it balanced



What do I need to know and what is involved in rebalancing this rotating assembly. I have New in the box Damper from Pro Systems, as well I will be ordering a new vert for the 3.23:1 gears I plan on running.
Posted By: MR_P_BODY

Re: 340 / 318 Crank question - 04/01/15 03:14 PM

Quote:

Quote:

Sure.. just check the balance on it
EDIT
What you have now is externally balanced with the conv
and the front balancer so you need to get a internally
balanced balancer and knock the weight off the conv
but I would still have it balanced



What do I need to know and what is involved in rebalancing this rotating assembly. I have New in the box Damper from Pro Systems, as well I will be ordering a new vert for the 3.23:1 gears I plan on running.




You just want to have it zero balanced(internally
balanced)... so it would be just a normal 68 340
balance job.. you would take the parts into the company
thats doing the balance, pistons,rods, rings, bearings,
crank and the balancer.. let them zero all the rods
and pistons then figure the bob weight and correct
the crank... when you get your conv you would order
a 68 340 style conv with zero balance(like all the
older 340 were)
Posted By: Budsworth

Re: 340 / 318 Crank question - 04/01/15 03:23 PM

Thank you Mr P you are a Gentleman, appreciate your input as always.

Bud.
Posted By: dogdays

Re: 340 / 318 Crank question - 04/01/15 06:06 PM

I don't agree.
It's a forged crank.
Cast cranks have sharp edges and squarish counterweights. This crank has rounded "kidney shaped" counterweights that to my eye look forged.

R.
Posted By: B1MAXX

Re: 340 / 318 Crank question - 04/01/15 06:37 PM

1ST thing I thought too..... Balance job would be a mess with the heavier 340/360 rods. Lots of Mallory..$$
Posted By: moper

Re: 340 / 318 Crank question - 04/01/15 06:57 PM

Quote:

I don't agree.
It's a forged crank.
Cast cranks have sharp edges and squarish counterweights. This crank has rounded "kidney shaped" counterweights that to my eye look forged.

R.




I agree. Do you have another pic of the counterweights?
Posted By: MR_P_BODY

Re: 340 / 318 Crank question - 04/01/15 07:38 PM

Quote:

I don't agree.
It's a forged crank.
Cast cranks have sharp edges and squarish counterweights. This crank has rounded "kidney shaped" counterweights that to my eye look forged.

R.




A cast crank is usually smoother.. but I always look
at the separation line on the counter weight.. a wide
line is forged and a thin line is cast... I dont see
any line on that pic... but he said cast..
Posted By: Cab_Burge

Re: 340 / 318 Crank question - 04/01/15 07:41 PM

I know several drag racers of SB motors that looked for the forged steel crankshafts out of the 318-3 truck motors to use in there short stock stroke 340 motors, they had to have thin steel plates welded onto the counter weights to get them to balance correctly. This was before Mallory metal was used in balancing IHTHs
Posted By: Twostick

Re: 340 / 318 Crank question - 04/01/15 09:50 PM

Would a set of H-beams and a light forged piston/pin get you into the 318 balance ballpark?

Kevin
Posted By: dogdays

Re: 340 / 318 Crank question - 04/01/15 10:09 PM

The big rod weighs 758 grams, the small rod weighs 726.
318s used the big rods from like 1973-on, and piston weight didn't change if one really weighs the items. The 318 cranks before and after this change point were the same old castings, no changes there.

The 318 piston weighs 591 grams plus the pin. My 30 over replacement piston comes in at 600 grams exactly, no pin.
Total weight is over 1500 grams with pin and rings..

It's mind-bogglingly heavy. The 340 piston adds another 130 grams. Small-block size with bigblock weight. No wonder taxi 318s ran forever.

You can get a decent rod that weighs around 650 grams and a decent 340 lightweight forging should come in at 500 grams plus pin.
There's no earthly reason to have to add weight to a 318 crankshaft to balance a modern rotating assembly. Well, I guess if you are building a 100% replica.

Back to the crank, the absence of a parting line doesn't tell me as much as the shape of the counterweights.

To the OP: Could you find the casting or forging number on the crankshaft and take a picture and post it? Let's put this issue to bed.

R.
Posted By: Hot 340

Re: 340 / 318 Crank question - 04/02/15 12:20 AM

Fix the crank you have if possible. Its steel. Check to see if the crankpins are drilled, if they are, its not a steel truck crank.
Posted By: cudaman1969

Re: 340 / 318 Crank question - 04/02/15 12:53 AM

The stocker guys actually use the cast crank because it is lighter. Using stock 318(lighter) rods and NHRA approved pistons of stock weight, they are not adding metal back to these cranks, which would defeat the purpose of using lighter cranks. These engines are buzzing 7500 or more all day. My buddy's 74 g- stock Duster low comp 340 with cast intake and J heads runs 7.0 eigth and 10.9 quarter with a cast crank. You will never hurt a cast crank on the street imo if you indeed have one.
Posted By: Budsworth

Re: 340 / 318 Crank question - 04/02/15 10:06 PM








I picked up this crank today for $125.00 bucks, it's a 340 "cast" crank. Turns out the crank in the block is a Steel crank according to the machinist. Going to send it out for repair. The local machine shop has had this crank on the rack since 1985.
Posted By: B1MAXX

Re: 340 / 318 Crank question - 04/03/15 06:35 PM

Are you going to try to use the cast crank? I had cast crank 360 internally balanced it took 2-3 slugs of Mallory as I recall and cost me over 350$ 15 years ago. I won't do that again. Just my
Posted By: dogdays

Re: 340 / 318 Crank question - 04/04/15 05:38 PM

First - on the forged crank, I told you so way back there.

Second, disregard any scare stories about 360 cranks because they don't apply. In your case, the crank would neutral balance if built as a 318, so any replacement piston that weighs 591 grams or less will balance up fine with no additional weight in the crank.

Look at the Number 1 and Number 4 crank throws. Are they bored out with a hole around 1" in diameter? 340 crank. Are they not bored out or a little hole like 3/8"? 318 crank.
The 318 and 340 used the same casting, so they will have the same casting number.

R.
Posted By: Budsworth

Re: 340 / 318 Crank question *DELETED* - 04/05/15 01:57 PM

Post deleted by Budsworth
Posted By: Budsworth

Re: 340 / 318 Crank question - 04/05/15 02:08 PM

Quote:

Ask and you shall receive, as they say. Thank your for your input Dogdays. In the original post I stated "Looks like" well I have learned quite a bit in regards to Mopar factory small block crankshafts this week. Yesterday I went searching on the local classifieds, I found and purchased a standard/standard Forged Steel crankshaft out of 1967 273. I checked the rear register with a digital caliper and it has the larger 1.8 vs the smaller 1.5 now I have a second option. And for $80.00 bucks.. That's cheaper than a slug of Mallory.




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