Posted By: cesar perez
caltrac - 12/23/14 05:13 AM
to the caltrac gurus what is the best caltrac setup ? with sliders-floaters-stock caltrac setup-or with monoleaf with 4 link setup ?
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Someone mentioned that using the longer ft. segment(25")may not fit into the "Stock Location" rules but just what I read.
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Yes, I talked to John Calvert, and the Mono-leaf would work better, but I will try the SS springs since I do drive the car on the street once in a while.
The rules/inspections are a number issues with Hose clamps, grade 8 bolts and large washers for the battery box, fuel cell, and etc...
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Yes, I talked to John Calvert, and the Mono-leaf would work better, but I will try the SS springs since I do drive the car on the street once in a while.
The rules/inspections are a number issues with Hose clamps, grade 8 bolts and large washers for the battery box, fuel cell, and etc...
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Yes, I talked to John Calvert, and the Mono-leaf would work better, but I will try the SS springs since I do drive the car on the street once in a while.
The rules/inspections are a number issues with Hose clamps, grade 8 bolts and large washers for the battery box, fuel cell, and etc...
It`s 2014 people why would we even consider the multi-leaf crap is beyond me but it`s your deal. Caltracs at a minimum w/sliders will go a LONG way when tuned in for your car and I don`t know about you guys but I`m about progress NOT regress..............
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Yes, I talked to John Calvert, and the Mono-leaf would work better, but I will try the SS springs since I do drive the car on the street once in a while.
The rules/inspections are a number issues with Hose clamps, grade 8 bolts and large washers for the battery box, fuel cell, and etc...
It`s 2014 people why would we even consider the multi-leaf crap is beyond me but it`s your deal. Caltracs at a minimum w/sliders will go a LONG way when tuned in for your car and I don`t know about you guys but I`m about progress NOT regress..............
If people would be focused on helping people instead of trying to sell them a new car it would be more helpfull.
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Yes, I talked to John Calvert, and the Mono-leaf would work better, but I will try the SS springs since I do drive the car on the street once in a while.
The rules/inspections are a number issues with Hose clamps, grade 8 bolts and large washers for the battery box, fuel cell, and etc...
It`s 2014 people why would we even consider the multi-leaf crap is beyond me but it`s your deal. Caltracs at a minimum w/sliders will go a LONG way when tuned in for your car and I don`t know about you guys but I`m about progress NOT regress..............
If people would be focused on helping people instead of trying to sell them a new car it would be more helpfull.
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If people would be focused on helping people instead of trying to sell them a new car it would be more helpfull.
You`re kidding right? Sez the guy w/a blown car on crap springs goin WAY slower than he should........... Too funny.
I do what I can and that is my point about the OP.We can not get there all at once.
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Yes, I talked to John Calvert, and the Mono-leaf would work better, but I will try the SS springs since I do drive the car on the street once in a while.
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Yes, I talked to John Calvert, and the Mono-leaf would work better, but I will try the SS springs since I do drive the car on the street once in a while.
I've been running my split mono's with C-T Bars on the street for a few years now. No issues, don't know why there would be any; in fact, they work great because you can back the preload out of the bars and have a nice soft ride. The bars rely on the controlled flex of the split mono's, and transfer that flex into effective motion. I don't see where adding C-T bars to SS springs (which are just plain stiff) will have any effect. (??)
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Yes, I talked to John Calvert, and the Mono-leaf would work better, but I will try the SS springs since I do drive the car on the street once in a while.
I've been running my split mono's with C-T Bars on the street for a few years now. No issues, don't know why there would be any; in fact, they work great because you can back the preload out of the bars and have a nice soft ride. The bars rely on the controlled flex of the split mono's, and transfer that flex into effective motion. I don't see where adding C-T bars to SS springs (which are just plain stiff) will have any effect. (??)
I can bend my ss like a twizzler[20* pinion up untell the u jount binds],what would a mono do?By the way Calvert told me if I liked my ride height/spring rate I did not need to go to a mono.
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Yes, I talked to John Calvert, and the Mono-leaf would work better, but I will try the SS springs since I do drive the car on the street once in a while.
I've been running my split mono's with C-T Bars on the street for a few years now. No issues, don't know why there would be any; in fact, they work great because you can back the preload out of the bars and have a nice soft ride. The bars rely on the controlled flex of the split mono's, and transfer that flex into effective motion. I don't see where adding C-T bars to SS springs (which are just plain stiff) will have any effect. (??)
I can bend my ss like a twizzler[20* pinion up untell the u jount binds],what would a mono do?By the way Calvert told me if I liked my ride height/spring rate I did not need to go to a mono.
Fightin this all the way.............. Just look at the c-trac design and your q`s will be answered.
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Yes, I talked to John Calvert, and the Mono-leaf would work better, but I will try the SS springs since I do drive the car on the street once in a while.
I've been running my split mono's with C-T Bars on the street for a few years now. No issues, don't know why there would be any; in fact, they work great because you can back the preload out of the bars and have a nice soft ride. The bars rely on the controlled flex of the split mono's, and transfer that flex into effective motion. I don't see where adding C-T bars to SS springs (which are just plain stiff) will have any effect. (??)
I can bend my ss like a twizzler[20* pinion up untell the u jount binds],what would a mono do?By the way Calvert told me if I liked my ride height/spring rate I did not need to go to a mono.
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The sliders are nice.. just keep them clean.. what
MOST people forget is the rubber bushings on old cars
are hard and tend to bind up.. if you run shackles
the old bushings can cause issues.. they can bind
then snap free.. chassis's dont like to be upset..
thats part of the reasons that people really like
the sliders.. they put a new item on the car that
isnt binding... plus the sliders lower the back of
the car and in most cases that helps on traction
(gets the CG down a little more so its easier to get
the front over the CG point)... but if people would
just lube the rubber points now and then it would help
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The sliders are nice.. just keep them clean.. what
MOST people forget is the rubber bushings on old cars
are hard and tend to bind up.. if you run shackles
the old bushings can cause issues.. they can bind
then snap free.. chassis's dont like to be upset..
thats part of the reasons that people really like
the sliders.. they put a new item on the car that
isnt binding... plus the sliders lower the back of
the car and in most cases that helps on traction
(gets the CG down a little more so its easier to get
the front over the CG point)... but if people would
just lube the rubber points now and then it would help
P-Body dude... I have Caltracs and Caltrack mono-leafs. I have brand new rubber bushings in my shackles. What would changing to sliders do for me? How much maintenance will I have to do on them to keep them working?
-Michael
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the sliders usually lower the back of the car about
1 1/2"/quote]
Depends where you put them. I mounted mine on a plate right next to the frame rail. Exact same ride height. If you had an inboard spring kit, they would actually raise the car slightly.
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the sliders usually lower the back of the car about
1 1/2"/quote]
Depends where you put them. I mounted mine on a plate right next to the frame rail. Exact same ride height. If you had an inboard spring kit, they would actually raise the car slightly.
My ride height didn`t change much ether since I lowered the rear shackles years ago when I moved the springs in and tubbed it.
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The arrow on the Calvert sliders points forward, with the car at rest, spring bolt should be a little more than half way to the rear of the slot.
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Johnnycuda, Thank you, and I have mine mounted correctly...big relief!
I will try my SS Springs first, and if they don't work out, then I will get the Mono-leafs...I was worried that the Monos would be too stiff for the street, but then again, I don't really drive the car on the street that much.
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If you keep the rubber bushings lube they are fine..
the sliders usually lower the back of the car about
1 1/2"... that can help the launch... keeping them
clean is just that.. spray them down with lube once
in a while... by the way I dont care to be called dude..
its just a thing
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Dizuster,
I am looking at the direction of your Calvert spring slider, and I have mine where the "Arrow" that is cut into the top of the slider mount is pointing forward...did I install mine backward?
Thanks for the help.
Mark
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I tried 002, and 003 SS springs with Caltracs in 1999. Didn't work. The bump valving needs to be pretty stiff, or it will wheelhop like you won't believe. I remember thinking "my overrunning clutch is dieing", as the yoke pounded the floor pan. That was with QA1's set below 50%. That was running 1.45 60's, with 5800 flash.
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Well, I am now sold on the Mono-leafs, and will order them next week, and will not even try to get the SS springs to work.
Thank you for all of the advice!
Mark