60 ft calculation

What does the car weight? What is your 1/8th mile ET and mph? What stall converter?

There could be a lot of reasons why a 60 ft, mph and ET are not "in line" with each other.

3375 w/driver
103.5 mph @ 1/8
8"flash stall @5100
convertor Is what I suspect? still sorting out as
timing change from , jet change, ,shift point resulted same 1/4 only a .005 et difference
mph stays 130.15
weird eh?

weight of car , a lighter car will 60 better

What are the rest of the numbers??

what car cubic inch and shift points MPH gain from 1/8 to 1/4 looks good maybe your short shifting.

With a 446 inch those heads and 276 roller you would probably keep picking up all the way to a 8200 shift point.

and it will want lots of total timing?? How much is timing rolling back when you hit the throttle?

not sure if I understand " how much timing is rolling back when I hit the throttle"
ignition timing is locked out

I disagree that 1.38 equates to 10.20.. .... Way to many variables involved to make that statement.
My old car(3350 race weight) most often went 1.36-38 60 foots on 9 sec passes.
As another example I know 340 Ricks gen3 Challenger goes mid/ high 1.3xx while running 9.60's.
Compression, suspension, weight, and other factors contribute as well.
At 3375 pounds, that 1.38 would absolutely not hinder a much better time slip.

first outing with this combo

I will recheck the timing for good measure (gear drive). I have only whacked the throttle up to say 2000 rpm in setting the timing.
Whats strange is the car saw no time slip change with short shifting at 6700 or 6000, jet change, only timing change from 42 down to 36 netted me a minus .5 mile an hour
Gonna be looking at the burn at the ground strap on the plugs next if there hot enough

My junk runs 130 mph at the stripe - and I can only dream of 1.3X 60's at 4200#.
I'm running 10.50s. LOL

Good luck with it - I'm sure you'll get that ET wittled down in no time!

I set my timing at 43 but if you whack the throttle good you can see it backs up to 39 ish.

You need lots of advance on that cam and lots of rpms I ran a 272/282 .700 lift 110 LSA in my 452 installed at 100 and it loved 7600 to 7800 shifts.

Same combo now with 255/263 .700 lift 108 LSA installed at 103 runs same times with 7200 shifts.

Last pass of the nite, just pass the 1/8 I think i saw my fuel pressure dropped to 3-4 pounds . Oops fuel delivery I am suspicious issues found.cell non vented,
return line pressure isolated today discovered is registering 3 pound i guess pretty bad for a mallory 4309 regulAtor and hoping to get rid of some fittings in return line.. install the fuel return on the side of the fuel cell to rid restrictions if its compliant with the rule books??
My secondary power valve was installed not blocked off
And my 02 sensor went dead on me as I got to the track lol
will fix what I have found to be suspect
Conan cOnvertor tech thinks my convertor works good up to this point unless proven wrong with logged data
thanks guys

46 degrees advance?
your fuel is which octane gas plus the methyl hydrate?

So what you will find is you can set your timing at 43 46 but under load it will back up. sometimes a lot. I have personally seen from 2 (pretty good) to 8 thats bad.

I too run a gear drive

A few years back when I decided to figure out how a shaft collar works and why I found my timing was backing up 7/8 degrees under load so when I thought I had 39 I had 31/32 going down the track. the shaft collar limited that to 2/3 degrees and so setting at 39 still I ran almost 2 tenths quicker now it was 36/37 under load. later that year I went all the way up to 42 which seemed to back up to 38/39 and ran quicker yet. This was with 11.85 to 1 compression Sunoco 94 which I tested last year and is 10% ethanol.

This year mine seems to be backing up 5 6 under load (I think the brass gear has some wear again) so last time out set it at 43 and have it at 45 for next time out.

Was explaining this timing roll back to a friend and next time I seen him he told me they checked the timing on his dads 500 and when they thought they had 36 they had 33 under load so they went up to 39 and now have 36 and picked up a tenth.

So this came up when I picked my balancing up for my 574 and he said oh yea we have found this even on locked out dizzy's not sure if it is all slack being taken out or some right in the electronics as rpms come up but they now like to set timing as they run on the dyno to see where it really goes and set accordingly. They said one customer they have with locked out timing they showed him by 6000 his was back 12 degree. when they put it up it gained about 40 hp.

They made an ingenious rig to run motors on their chassis dyno. rear end with slicks, short drive shaft, tranny (5 speed i think) and then set up that any motor can be bolted into the rig powering through the clutch.

Anyways according to him the best way to get a true rock solid timing is to go to a crank pick up. Then your locked out dizzy is only aiming the spark and your timing chain (timing gears) cam walk, distributor drive (wear) are all taken out of the equation.

so this is on my wish list
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/msd-8636/overview/make/chrysler

They said if you have advanced till you got your best ET's you will not run any faster but timing is rock solid and not moving all over so easier to dial in.


PS the reason the shaft collar works is the pump/distributor drive gear can move up and down thus advancing and retarding the distributor as we know you turn it CW to get it to go down in and CCW to get it to come out or opposite directions big block to small. the shaft collar helps to limit this. A LOT in some cases. (think it is how deep you dizzy shaft tang is compared to depth of gear slot???)

Where did you get that shaft collar?

talked to Mallory today and their recommendation is a -10 fuel feed line , -12 return line with my 4309 bypass regulator and comp 250 that I have been using. My existing comp 250 pump -8 feed and -10 return which Mallory states is good for 200 gph which is about 500 hp , unless fuel line size is enlarged.
Braided line and fuel fittings expense will drive me up the wall now. lol
I may go dead head with my existing -10 for a feed to save a few bucks on this fuel delivery experiment to extinguish the suspect gremlin.
get me one of those distributor collars installed fuel cell vent and on the way back to the track one day

Régular gas

I had a post a while back about this very thing...........timing retarding as I rev the motor but only 2-3 degrees so now I just consider it a built in retard now and will run with it.

Mine's retarded too…. but maybe not actually the timing itself. LOL

I made mine but TSC Tractor supply or any electric motor shop carry them thin Tractor supply you get a package of 2.

http://www.amazon.com/b?node=16411911

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/countylinereg%3B-set-collar-1-2-in-dia-pack-of-2

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/pow...08501%20Collars,%20Couplings%209and%20Components"%7C~%20~%7Ccategoryl3:"603515%20Shaft%20Collars"%7C~

I would tap in an extra locking set screw and red lock tight them after positioning.

25 HSB
94 PRI
103 SEC
e-85 1000 main body which quickfuel claims 90 pri, 99 sec is the 26 HSB baseline for the main body
New battery
run -10 feed line deadheaded to a magnafuel regulator 35 degrees and if my tach is correct at the end of today shifted at 7000 netted me a 10.00 @ 131.84 mph
the wideband still shows about 13.3 afr during the run.
1.345 60
6.363 1/8 @ 106.43
10.0 1/4 @ 131.84
New best

the 1.38 a couple weeks ago wasn't jiving me
A new best a 440 .060 went 9.95 NA

Congrats that`s what you wanted...........

Thanks for your support also

No problem man.............

Glad to see ya back Mike..............

glad to see ya Mr P body

hope to go for an outing at the strip next weekend with the changes made to the fuell system.

That is all true. But IMO, for typical cars 2800-3400 lbs, 9.0-12.0 ET, normally aspirated, no power adders, etc. This equation is a good "target" for the sixty foot. If a car has worse sixty, a converter or gear change may be in order (or other things). Some chassis actually do better, but it may be a case of lots of torque but not enough top end HP (mph). Some bracket racers are not setup to 60ft well, but to just hook up easily and they shoe polish the ET.

Target Sixty Ft = ET x 0.12 + 0.17
9.0 -> 1.25
9.5 -> 1.31
10.2 ->1.39
10.5 ->1.43
11.0 ->1.49
12.0 ->1.61

Wallace is about the same at the mid-lower ET, and slower Sixty ft at the higher ET.

I still use the 60' X 1.56

Mr.P, I've used the 1.56 many times to calculate 1/4 miles times from the 1/8 mile time, I don't know of a calculation from the 60' time? But I don't think 1.56 will work?

No you don't... That's the 1/8 mile to 1/4 mile conversion number "1.56". No problem there brother though.

My error.... was thinking 1/8....... but yet I still wrote
down 60... brain dead

Use the 330. 60ft could be anywhere depending on many factors. Converter, SLR, carb, intake plenum, cam. Heck I've run 9.1X @ 1.32 and 9.2X @ 1.37. The thing mine will catch most cars with a similar ET by 330. Then the numbers line up after that, 330,660,1000,1320.
Doug

Is this a "real" e-85 carb w/proper sized passages and main wells or a conversion.....

this was a conversion holley blocks in addition a unstable fuel supply.

pump , regulator and recipe changes have been made.

Now I understand.............