Which distributor is everyone's preference

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Doubtful if the ECU gets enough cooling this way, but then again, they were supposed to operate good in an engine bay aswell.

I personally would like to create some 'forced' cooling with either an extra little fan blowing at it, or put it in a place where it gets fresh air, like the front of the radiator support.

I've ran a Mopar gold ECU once which lasted exactly 1 run. On the far end of the track the engine barely kept running and was just able to make it back to the pits.
It was however mounted high on the front of the rad. support frame.

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When I used to use the mopar boxes I always had two mounted in my Duster. One to get there and one to get home. I'm serious I always had two side by side just in case and the just in case came into play once in awhile.

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Has anybody used one of the inexpensive ones on the market now?

At $55 for a new distributor with good features, somebody must have tried them.
Ebay link - 440 Mopar Distributor

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• A billet of 6061 - T6 aluminum CNC is machined into a perfect housing for incredible strength, precision and looks.

• Sealed ball bearings, sintered bushing, 1/2 inch hardened steel shaft
• Extremely accurate magnetic pickup which never requires adjustment.
• Designed with a small base and cap to suit all makes and models.
• This is mainly used in high performance vehicles which have space limitations around the engine.

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yep, if you look back a page you'll even see my pic of my motor with one fitted. as I said in my post, it's a great dizzy but it's internal magnetic trigger is rubbish, but if you're using a crank trigger, these dizzys work well.

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When I first read your post I missed the connection to the ProComp distributor in the middle, I looked it over too quickly. I imagine most of these off brand ones are made in the same factory. Thanks for the feedback.
I used a stock distributor with the weights welded with my crank trigger for many years. But now I am waiting on a KB alumuminum block and their "low deck" still uses a RB distributor so I need to buy something. For $55 I could disable the mechanical advance for use with my crank trigger and MSD ignition box. New housing (CNC), new ball bearings, etc. and it clears the valve covers with Indy heads

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I like and use the stock Mopar magnetic pickup distributors with vacume and mecahical advance. I weld the slots up to limit the mechanical advance to 18 to 20 crankshaft degrees , 9 to 10 distributor degrees, so I can set the initial timing at or cloes to 14 to 16 BTDC I buy the Mr Gasket Chevy distributor spring advance kit and use both of those skinny little short rascals I think the Mr G part # is 25B, if not let me know and I'll go out in the shop tomorrow and verify the correct part number for you

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Factory stock elec dist. (most are free) with one tiny spring, all in when started, MSD 6 or 7 and right coil. Then worry about other things more important. All i used since 1974, still got the 7 box with the 5 pin hook up. So simple a cave man can use one.

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My MSD 404 C box quit at the MATS race three years ago, it was Sunday morning, I was the first car in the left lane for the first round of Pro and the box to a hike I had a spare MSD7C in the trailer that I could have swapped and bought back in but I figure it wasn't meant to be that day so I put in the trailer and towed it home 850 miles without a fisrt round win Nothing last forever, even the best parts die and wear out

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Add me to the list still using the old MP tach drive dizzy. Still using the old mechanical SW tach, too, left over from the old factory race days.....

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