holley carb tuning ?

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It has 37 front and rear squirters in it.

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You could be going dog rich with 37s... drop them to
about 32-34

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I put a 31 in the front and that seems to help, the only other smaller one I have is a 28, should I throw that in the secondary?

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Try it for a test but it might be too small but you
should see a change

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What pump cams do you have in it and what # hole? You appear to not be getting enough initial squirt volume. 50cc pumps will simply prolong the length of the squirt with the same squirter size.

Try pink cam with the screw through the #2 hole in the arm and #3 hole in the nylon(?) cam I the primaries.

Secondaries the same, or green #2.

It takes some tinkering, but I try to get both squirt durations to finish squirting at the same time for drag racing only applications. You might need a slightly smaller cam. There are charts out there and pink & green are 2 of the biggest 30cc cams. #1 holes usually squirt less volume than #2/3.

Adjust for instant squirt with any throttle movement but keep about .015" additional compression at the pump housing lever when throttle is fully open.

I'll suggest going the other way on the squirters. If it still hesitates, consider .040"/.042"/.045".

I would suggest a power valve rated about 1.5 - 2 numbers above idle vacuum IN GEAR.

My theory is that your converter and gear isn't allowing the engine to rev up as fast as needed. The load requires more initial fuel until the rpm's and vacuum are high enough to get the main jets to take over.

(I normally use .037 - .040" squirters with pump cams as described with a low gear 904, 4.86 gears and a converter that flashes to 5100 - 5400 before starting to lock up.)

Can't guarantee it, but it's worth a try.

If, by chance, it goes when you flatfoot it, hesitates, then goes again, you may need bigger pump cams to extend the duration.

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Some good ideas except for the p/v at idle deal. That`s old skool bs and even if it`s open at idle, it doesn`t come into play unless your way in the transfer slot on to the enrichment circuit. The proper way to tune p/v is to cruise the car and get a vacuum reading then go from there. Some guys go further for economy and hit a grade measure the reading and p/v it accordingly. I have bet. 9-10 "`s at a steady state cruise and put a 5.5 in and what a difference compared to the "old" idle theory. It get`s way deeper than this but that`s my position on this fwiw.........

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Quote:

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What pump cams do you have in it and what # hole? You appear to not be getting enough initial squirt volume. 50cc pumps will simply prolong the length of the squirt with the same squirter size.

Try pink cam with the screw through the #2 hole in the arm and #3 hole in the nylon(?) cam I the primaries.

Secondaries the same, or green #2.

It takes some tinkering, but I try to get both squirt durations to finish squirting at the same time for drag racing only applications. You might need a slightly smaller cam. There are charts out there and pink & green are 2 of the biggest 30cc cams. #1 holes usually squirt less volume than #2/3.

Adjust for instant squirt with any throttle movement but keep about .015" additional compression at the pump housing lever when throttle is fully open.

I'll suggest going the other way on the squirters. If it still hesitates, consider .040"/.042"/.045".

I would suggest a power valve rated about 1.5 - 2 numbers above idle vacuum IN GEAR.

My theory is that your converter and gear isn't allowing the engine to rev up as fast as needed. The load requires more initial fuel until the rpm's and vacuum are high enough to get the main jets to take over.

(I normally use .037 - .040" squirters with pump cams as described with a low gear 904, 4.86 gears and a converter that flashes to 5100 - 5400 before starting to lock up.)

Can't guarantee it, but it's worth a try.

If, by chance, it goes when you flatfoot it, hesitates, then goes again, you may need bigger pump cams to extend the duration.

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Some good ideas except for the p/v at idle deal. That`s old skool bs and even if it`s open at idle, it doesn`t come into play unless your way in the transfer slot on to the enrichment circuit. The proper way to tune p/v is to cruise the car and get a vacuum reading then go from there. Some guys go further for economy and hit a grade measure the reading and p/v it accordingly. I have bet. 9-10 "`s at a steady state cruise and put a 5.5 in and what a difference compared to the "old" idle theory. It get`s way deeper than this but that`s my position on this fwiw.........

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thats the way you would do it for a street car but not drag only