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Mopar 225

Posted By: David Lee

Mopar 225 - 03/20/14 12:55 AM

I know its crazy but I want to build a good 225 to go bracket racing. What is the best year block of these engines. I assume the engines that came in the eighties were thinner wall castings.

thanks
Posted By: Dads426

Re: Mopar 225 - 03/20/14 04:06 AM

I would start here: SlantSix.org
Posted By: slantracer

Re: Mopar 225 - 03/22/14 09:16 PM

Forged crank '75 and older, up the compression.
Build a mild 60-62 Valiant or Lancer and run 12:50's all day and not work on it.
Get more involved, run 10:90's and work on it all the time.
Be different, not just another too many cylinder race car!
Posted By: cudaboy

Re: Mopar 225 - 03/22/14 10:30 PM

Quote:

Forged crank '75 and older, up the compression.
Build a mild 60-62 Valiant or Lancer and run 12:50's all day and not work on it.
Get more involved, run 10:90's and work on it all the time.
Be different, not just another too many cylinder race car!


What would it take to get one to run 11.50's? There are a couple of tracks that run that index and i think that is what i am shooting for.

Dennis
Posted By: jamesc

Re: Mopar 225 - 03/22/14 10:36 PM

Quote:

Quote:

Forged crank '75 and older, up the compression.
Build a mild 60-62 Valiant or Lancer and run 12:50's all day and not work on it.
Get more involved, run 10:90's and work on it all the time.
Be different, not just another too many cylinder race car!


What would it take to get one to run 11.50's? There are a couple of tracks that run that index and i think that is what i am shooting for.

Dennis




imho first thing i would want is a flyweight car to put it in

i had a nice /6 in parts that i sold years ago and wish i had kept it. was adapting one of the old buick turbos to it.
Posted By: MR_P_BODY

Re: Mopar 225 - 03/22/14 11:57 PM

Quote:

Quote:

Forged crank '75 and older, up the compression.
Build a mild 60-62 Valiant or Lancer and run 12:50's all day and not work on it.
Get more involved, run 10:90's and work on it all the time.
Be different, not just another too many cylinder race car!


What would it take to get one to run 11.50's? There are a couple of tracks that run that index and i think that is what i am shooting for.

Dennis




A super light car first thing... I dont recall how
the old 4 bbl manifolds worked... but thats something
to think about(if you can find them now days)
Posted By: slantzilla

Re: Mopar 225 - 03/23/14 06:43 AM

11:50's on motor is a tough nut to crack, especially when conditions are hot or humid.

Forged or cast crank don't really matter, one is just about as good as the other. Good piston/rod combos are easier to find for a forged crank though.

As with most any motor headwork is the key. A Slant is tricky, because it is very easy to overport the head and all that does is creates reversion problems. It is also easy to put too big of valves in it, The small bore really shrouds a big intake valve.

Compression needs to stay around 11.5ish or it will eat head gaskets like crazy.

Cam is pretty critical too. Too much and it's a pig, too little and you leave a lot of power on the table.

Alcohol is almost a must too.

A rollerized 904 is almost a must for that fast unless you run a stick. A stick can be worth almost 1/2 second, but consistency may suffer and breakage will visit often.

As everyone has already said, you need a LIGHT car. 2000-2100 would be ideal, but hard to get to without a tube chassis car or a 61-62 Valiant/Lancer.

Finding little things that will get you a couple hundredths here and there will become a passion. Your weather station will be your best friend and worst enemy on the same day.

Plan B is build a fairly stock motor and turbo it. Consistency will suck, but it will be rocket fast and relatively trouble free when you get it dialed in.

If you're like most of us Slant racers you will follow plan A, and then wonder "Why in the hell did I ever do this when a smallblock would have been easier and cheaper?".
Posted By: slantracer

Re: Mopar 225 - 03/23/14 02:43 PM

I don't think Slantzilla is right about most slant guys wished they had gone V8.
He thinks that because his stuff is not running!
It's fun not to take the easy way out.
We have broken one engine in 23 years of racing and they aren't any more expensive than any other engine to build. Just don't get stupid with your money.
Posted By: cudaboy

Re: Mopar 225 - 03/23/14 03:18 PM

Quote:

61-62 Valiant/Lancer


Well, that's what I am looking for, so I guess I'm heading in the right direction. It also wouldn't have to be n/a, I could spray it a bit as long as it didn't hurt consistency.

It probably just another one of my pipe dreams though, who knows.

Dennis
Posted By: cudaboy

Re: Mopar 225 - 03/23/14 03:37 PM

Quote:

Plan B is build a fairly stock motor and turbo it.


I recently came across an old friend that I haven't seen or heard from in 21 years on FABO. That is what he did with his Valiant. I don't think his is a race only car though. I am looking forward to seeing it this spring.

Dennis
Posted By: slantzilla

Re: Mopar 225 - 03/23/14 09:33 PM

Quote:

I don't think Slantzilla is right about most slant guys wished they had gone V8.
He thinks that because his stuff is not running!
It's fun not to take the easy way out.
We have broken one engine in 23 years of racing and they aren't any more expensive than any other engine to build. Just don't get stupid with your money.




That's because I don't have deep pockets like you Southern boys.

You guys still have the Valiant? That would be a great car for this guy.
Posted By: dogdays

Re: Mopar 225 - 03/24/14 07:58 PM

To the OP:

Your assumption that later slant six blocks would have thinner walls isn't correct. There seems to be no best year for blocks, if you are going to spend major bucks on a block I'd sonic check it first. And because Slants are bore-limited, I'd look for one that could be bored out more if your are going NA.

BUT, from my point of view, the easiest way to get a Slanty into the 11s is with a turbocharger. And that will work with stock displacement. Looking at the engine's layout, it seems made for a turbo, plenty of room for everything.

There is a lot of info on the Web, just start doing searches and you'll come up with plenty.

R.
Posted By: B5 Bee

Re: Mopar 225 - 03/27/14 12:34 AM

Quote:

To the OP:

Your assumption that later slant six blocks would have thinner walls isn't correct. There seems to be no best year for blocks, if you are going to spend major bucks on a block I'd sonic check it first. And because Slants are bore-limited, I'd look for one that could be bored out more if your are going NA.

R.




Bore limited? How much? All blocks are bore limited.

Just about any slant block will go +.100. I know of one that went +.190 without hardblock.
Posted By: slantzilla

Re: Mopar 225 - 03/27/14 08:41 AM

Quote:

Quote:

To the OP:

Your assumption that later slant six blocks would have thinner walls isn't correct. There seems to be no best year for blocks, if you are going to spend major bucks on a block I'd sonic check it first. And because Slants are bore-limited, I'd look for one that could be bored out more if your are going NA.

R.




Bore limited? How much? All blocks are bore limited.

Just about any slant block will go +.100. I know of one that went +.190 without hardblock.




The +.190 block is still running. It's in a buddy's Dakota truck.

I have seen quite a few go +.135". Anything over +.100" should be sonic checked.
Posted By: dogdays

Re: Mopar 225 - 03/27/14 05:37 PM

By bore limited I meant it has an awfully small bore. I didn't think that would be so hard to understand.

On most engines the bore is not the major area to gain cubic inches, the stroke is. So you add stroke.
On the 225 the stroke is already quite long, it had to be that way in order to make any cubic inches at all, because the bores are so small Kind of like the 5.4 ford modular engine.

In that case, it becomes much more important to be able to increase the bore by a lot to gain size. That's why I suggested sonic checking blocks to find one that could take a substantial overbore.

It's good to hear that cylinder walls are generally thick and a significant overbore is possible. Should make it easier to get more power out of a naturally aspirated engine.

The turbo, however, will cover a lack of displacement quite well.

R.
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