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Iam reassembling my 383 had heads plained ( not very much) rockers seem to be very tight on valves when valves are closed stock shaft and rockers, rockers are riding valve tips ok. push rods are tight on closed vales. Should I install shims and how much? Push rods should be able to turn on a closed valve? Thanks Bob
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Iam reassembling my 383 had heads plained ( not very much) rockers seem to be very tight on valves when valves are closed stock shaft and rockers, rockers are riding valve tips ok. push rods are tight on closed vales. Should I install shims and how much? Push rods should be able to turn on a closed valve? Thanks Bob
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Iam reassembling my 383 had heads plained ( not very much) rockers seem to be very tight on valves when valves are closed stock shaft and rockers, rockers are riding valve tips ok. push rods are tight on closed vales. Should I install shims and how much? Push rods should be able to turn on a closed valve? Thanks Bob
No , you do not install shims , shims are for correcting valve tip to rocker arm geometry , not making up for head/block milling.
It's a hyd. lifter not solid , the lifter should be compressed some and under that pressure the pushrod will not spin freely .
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You didn't step up to a bigger cam did you?Best cure is to put adjustable rockers on it along with some lash caps.
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I keep thinking this: it's a hydraulic cam, right? There is supposed to be no lash in the system when the valve is closed, that's what the hydraulic lifters do.
There's a spring inside the lifter that pushes the cup up. If you had slop in the closed condition the pushrods would be too short.
The question is, what kind of preload are you getting on the lifters. In other words, how far down in the lifter is the pushrod pushing the cup?
R.
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Iam reassembling my 383 had heads plained ( not very much) rockers seem to be very tight on valves when valves are closed stock shaft and rockers, rockers are riding valve tips ok. push rods are tight on closed vales. Should I install shims and how much? Push rods should be able to turn on a closed valve? Thanks Bob
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The reason for adjustable rockers Mike is to step up to the 20th century already.............
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I get it BUT Isky iron or a cheaper version takes the guess work out and you can even play w/preload like we used to at Pettis on the stockers.............
One more thing; if the stem heights are all over like some I`ve seen at least you can even things out w/an adj. rocker............. 
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You`re stuck in your ways and me in mine. ANYTIME a head is milled or valves sunk from valve jobs, the pre load`s out of wack period and shimming makes the already sucky small block`s sweep worse so adjustable rockers are the only LOGICAL solution...........I`m gonna go work out now..............
about which rockers to run and what rocker geometry is best 
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Not trying to be right but "been there done that" many, many times and I stand behind my "opinion" %100000000................I don`t EVER guess on ANYTHING car related but also understand I`m a nobody and that`s cool by me...........
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Not trying to be right but "been there done that" many, many times and I stand behind my "opinion" %100000000................I don`t EVER guess on ANYTHING car related but also understand I`m a nobody and that`s cool by me...........
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Why not remove the intake and measure the preload? Bend a couple pieces of thin wire 90* at the end, various thickness. Use them as a go/no go gauge between the retaining ring and lifter piston. For what its worth I've shimmed plenty of shafts due to milling. Have 3 cars running around right now. Big block with a small .460" hydraulic a 7000 rpm small block with a .540"/.570" @ 245* solid. For that matter my rocker stands for my T&Ds are shimmed .125" cause I was to cheap to buy another $400 set of pushrods. No issue with that one either. I actually mapped out the geometry change, we're talking about .010" difference in sweep across the valve at .800" lift.
Doug
) once you get that done then put the drivers side rocker arm shaft and rocker arms with the two pushrods in place for that cylinder, torque them down to no more than 23 Ft. LBs Then you can look at the lifter to see how much the pushrod seat is down from the top of the retaining ring or clip. See if you can use a small paper clip and a large paper clip to make a L gauge out of to see if one of them will fit betwenn the pushrod cup in the lifter and the retainer, snap ring , keeper or what ever you want to call it . If a small paper clip will fit and large one won't your golden, if a large fits real loosely in between them you may need help in resolving the issue 
Maybe not 
If the large one fits you can try using different diameters of gas welding rod to measure with to find out exactly how much preload you have on those two lifters Don't you love working on motors that have been modified I do 
Good luck, let us know what you do and find out please
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Why not remove the intake and measure the preload? Bend a couple pieces of thin wire 90* at the end, various thickness. Use them as a go/no go gauge between the retaining ring and lifter piston. For what its worth I've shimmed plenty of shafts due to milling. Have 3 cars running around right now. Big block with a small .460" hydraulic a 7000 rpm small block with a .540"/.570" @ 245* solid. For that matter my rocker stands for my T&Ds are shimmed .125" cause I was to cheap to buy another $400 set of pushrods. No issue with that one either. I actually mapped out the geometry change, we're talking about .010" difference in sweep across the valve at .800" lift.
Doug
Shimming rocker stands is one thing, shimming shafts is another. The rocker shaft is made to fit into the shaft mount, putting shims under the shaft will make the bottom of the shaft bigger therefore upon tightening spreads the shaft mount and splitting it.
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If he is on this Site in the Race forums his engine/car means more to him than just a Daily driver and although it may never hit the Track I am sure he wants his "Pride & Joy" to be right.Adjustable Rocker arms is the only way to make it 100%right.
That would be a horrible waste of money to know EXACTLY where each and every valve is lashed and to have the ability to tighten or loosen to your liking. Plus it sucks to put a nice new roller rocker(another waste of money)w/perfect geometry and less guide wear..............I mean why would anyone want to "step up" into the 20th century when you can guess and wonder................ 
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I want to thank everybody for the info. I jump the gun on this
I finally got back to the engine, I was going to try the paper-
clip and I notice that the cups are not into the body the intake is
not on the engine yet so I rotated engine again and re-check the
valves they are not to deep, adjustment seems good so everything
should be good. Thanks again for all the help to everybody. Bob
Do you know the name "Mr Murphy"? As in Murphy law You've met him now
At least now we can stop 
and start. 
.