Posted By: mac56
Powerglide user Question - 12/23/08 08:08 PM
I would like to change over to a glide this winter and was wondering what internal mods do you feel are necessary for 750hp. in a pull tractor.
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In a tractor not sure but I run a basically stock p/g with good band and clutches behind a 900 hp Hemi
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In a tractor not sure but I run a basically stock p/g with good band and clutches behind a 900 hp Hemi
Quote:Stock stuff will not last in a pull tractor. Those things are basically in a constant state of tire shake. It won't be the power that kills a trans here, it will be the constant hook-no hook of the tires. This will take a good trans. I suggest aftermarket case, straight cut gear set, vasco input and a 10 clutch drum at the min.Quote:Quote:
In a tractor not sure but I run a basically stock p/g with good band and clutches behind a 900 hp Hemi
Stock out and no straight cut gears? What ratio and does the ratio matter to strength?
stock gears
Quote:Anything can break Leon. I would not read much into the fact that you broke one. So far, out of all the trans that I have sold to guys, I have yet to sell one with a Vasco gear set. Just the standard, straight cut 9310 stuff and have not had a gear set break yet, even behind some blown motors. I have seen stock 1.76s hold up behind some real power, but you never know.
Fred I don't know how you get away with that.
I broke an aftermarket planetary with my 900HP small block that makes far less torque than your hemi.
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I have heard of way more aftermarket gear sets breaking than stock 1.76 believe it or not.
OK
Will this have a break?
If so depending on what type of break, diff mods needs to be done (dump holes drilled etc.)
This lets the pressure dump off the reverse piston, which makes for a much quicker leave.
Use the good clutches, I used the thin ones about .070 thick compared to .100, which enabled me to get more into the forward clutch drum without milling etc. Which was about 7 in my case, but really depends on the piston style/thickness. Shoot for .075-.100 total clutch pack clearance total in the front drum.
The factory clutch hub, needs to be replaced, the factory is thin pop metal, and isn't wide enough to allow additional clutches.
Also ditch the servo piston for a duel ring setup, I never had any luck with the nylon/Teflon type, I prefer the cast iron ring style.
Get as many clutches as possible in the reverse side when using a Brake (extra Holding) if not running a break, just replace the clutches with same number high quality clutches, its not like your going to be racing in reverse LOL.
Replace the input shaft for a 300M or hard unit, I prefer the 350 turbo spline, better... read more choices, and finding used ones etc.
There is some pump mods that can be done too.
I done some simple mods as these, and I have had good luck using stock 1.76 gear sets. I pulled 1.07 60ft in a heavy dragster (1800-1900+ lbs), although they are light, it still had to take those 6K brake launches.
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The stock 1.82 is junk, hold a 1.76 and 1.82 next to each other and you will see. On a glide the planetary is the output shaft. My first one was a ATI somewhat high dollar piece that lasted 75 passes before exploding on launch, after beating it out of the trans we rebuilt it at the track with a stock 1.76 someone had. I ran the stock one for another 175 passes at 8.50 in a 2450 lbs car (still good at teardown). I then upgraded to a Hughes killer billet one and have had it in since (8 years?).
Cores. There are two ways to ID a 1.76 or 1.82 planetary trans. The input shafts are different lengths by .25" (14 5/8 & 14 7/8 I think) and the O.D. of the output shafts are different. Sorry I don't remember what they are at the moment but can look it up.