sleeves in Hemi block

Not a Hemi, but a 426 wedge, I went .100 over, raced it for some time. Sonic check, see what your bore options are, then see what rings are available. If you have to spend a lot, you might as well get everything you can out of it by using the best rings (thinner?) for the job. You also may have the option of less than a full set of sleeves for a certain bore. No two cylinders will be exactly the same.

Sonic test first

Thanks for the input, but I have issues with this block. Some knuckle head went wild with a hand grinder and made a valve chamfer almost into the push rod hole on the deck, just trying to get some more meat for gasket sealing In that spot. Only thing I can think of doing other than welding that spot. My fault for over looking this when I bought it.

Lay a stock head gasket on the deck. See if the chamfer goes beyond the notch that is in the gasket. We used to sand out the top of the cylinder to match the gasket on a pro stock engine. It doesn't hurt anything on a street engine but would be illegal in stock or super stock.

Passenger side has 1/16 inch between chamfer and hole, driver side 1/8, thought about sleeving that hole too. Don't think the head gasket would keep from blowing the way it is.

I have a similar situation. My block is mildly filled, to the bottom of the freeze plugs and is o-ringed and 060 over.

Is it a big deal to sleeve and deck to remove the oring or fill the oring with epoxy and deck the block?

Sonic test first. Many can go .070 over.Back when I had my shop I saved a lot of used up Hemi blocks. Did them with a Kwik-Way bar.I used a very thick sleeve and had about.255 wall before honing .005 on the CK-10 to stock bore size.At that time I used Nylen sleeves but I never had any issues (I think they were some sort of iron mix).Procedure was do only one cyl at at time on each bank skipping over the ajoining cyl. So I would do #4 flip it do #5 flip it do #8 flip it do #1 etc.1/4 inch or more retainer groove at the bottom of each cyl and about 1/16 sticking out the top.Filed and stoned off excess continue to next cyl.Green Loctite sleeve retainer to seal off the water.Squared the block afterwards.Worked very well even on paper thin pro stock blocks.Lots of work and time.This procedure seemed best to prevent the block from twisting much and they were very easy to square up.BTW back then it was $400.00 incl sleeves.Should be much easier now the the modern equipment.

Would decking the blocks help the situation? I didn't see a photo of the notch. I'm thinking between boring and some decking it might help with the gasket seal. I've got some old SS Hemi blocks that have been decked around .100"-.120". It makes fitting the intake a pain, but hopefully you only need a little.