Posted By: 70shaker
8 3/4 Back brace question - 12/19/08 04:28 PM
When adding a back brace do you guys completely weld or skip weld it. Also do you weld the ends of the brace to the axle tubes?
Thanks
Thanks
8 3/4 Back brace question
Posted By: MR_P_BODY
Re: 8 3/4 Back brace question - 12/19/08 05:06 PM
I welded the whole thing but I dont think you need
too. On the ends I left enough material that I could
fold it down on top of the bearing flange. I used
2X3 tubing
EDIT
Here is a pic
too. On the ends I left enough material that I could
fold it down on top of the bearing flange. I used
2X3 tubing
EDIT
Here is a pic
Posted By: KatFysh
Re: 8 3/4 Back brace question - 12/19/08 08:18 PM
I am going to be ordering a brace soon myself, finally. I plan on sticth welding it all the way around but will be continuous when I'm done. Like doing a body panel..Who has the best fitting one? Mancini?
Posted By: CrAzYMoPaRGuY
Re: 8 3/4 Back brace question - 12/19/08 08:36 PM
Mine is continuously welded as well, it's made from 2x4 tube.
Posted By: MR_P_BODY
Re: 8 3/4 Back brace question - 12/19/08 08:50 PM
Quote:
I am going to be ordering a brace soon myself, finally. I plan on sticth welding it all the way around but will be continuous when I'm done. Like doing a body panel..Who has the best fitting one? Mancini?
I dont know who offers the best, I made mine out
of the 2X3, but if yours is a longer housing then
you might be better off using the 2X4 stock like Crazy did,
it leaves you enough material at the ends for a wall
Posted By: Mr.Yuck
Re: 8 3/4 Back brace question - 12/19/08 09:04 PM
I was told to not run a continuous bead as it could warp the tube and...weld it with the axles in.
Posted By: MR_P_BODY
Re: 8 3/4 Back brace question - 12/19/08 09:13 PM
Quote:
I was told to not run a continuous bead as it could warp the tube and...weld it with the axles in.
If you stitch weld it(jumping all around) with 1" beads
and cool it, its not a problem but after doing a
few I really dont think its necessary for a full
weld JMO
Posted By: moparniac
Re: 8 3/4 Back brace question - 12/19/08 09:47 PM
mine was skip welded
Posted By: CrAzYMoPaRGuY
Re: 8 3/4 Back brace question - 12/19/08 09:50 PM
Quote:
you might be better off using the 2X4 stock like Crazy did,
I only started with 2x4 stock because I wanted a rear flat section for my load bolt provisions.
Posted By: GoDartGo
Re: 8 3/4 Back brace question - 12/19/08 09:54 PM
ugly, but it's what I had.
.jpg "4889351-dscn2328(3).jpg")
Posted By: moparniac
Re: 8 3/4 Back brace question - 12/19/08 10:08 PM
Posted By: MR_P_BODY
Re: 8 3/4 Back brace question - 12/19/08 10:50 PM
For a little more work I think its worth the time
and effort to go out to and on to the bearing flange
with the brace. I have seen where they bend at the
outter edge of the spring mount. All you have to do
is notch around the edge of the spring mount wall
and drill the holes through the brace but it picks
up alot of strength out at the ends.... JMO
and effort to go out to and on to the bearing flange
with the brace. I have seen where they bend at the
outter edge of the spring mount. All you have to do
is notch around the edge of the spring mount wall
and drill the holes through the brace but it picks
up alot of strength out at the ends.... JMO
Posted By: moparniac
Re: 8 3/4 Back brace question - 12/20/08 12:49 AM
the best thing I did to give my 8 3/4 life was sell the 8 3/4 and had a dana 60 built 
Posted By: Kevins493
Re: 8 3/4 Back brace question - 12/20/08 01:29 AM
On the 64 Plymouth we bolted the rear at the pumpkin to a long piece of "C" channel and shimed and clamped the housing ends to the channel, then skip welded the back brace. Nothing moved when we unclamped everything.
Posted By: CrAzYMoPaRGuY
Re: 8 3/4 Back brace question - 12/20/08 02:26 AM
Quote:
the best thing I did to give my 8 3/4 life was sell the 8 3/4 and had a dana 60 built
Thanks for that useful piece of information!
Posted By: MR_P_BODY
Re: 8 3/4 Back brace question - 12/20/08 02:38 AM
Quote:Quote:
the best thing I did to give my 8 3/4 life was sell the 8 3/4 and had a dana 60 built
Thanks for that useful piece of information!
LOL, thought Tony changed his name
Posted By: CrAzYMoPaRGuY
Re: 8 3/4 Back brace question - 12/20/08 03:15 AM
Quote:
For a little more work I think its worth the time
and effort to go out to and on to the bearing flange
with the brace. I have seen where they bend at the
outter edge of the spring mount. All you have to do
is notch around the edge of the spring mount wall
and drill the holes through the brace but it picks
up alot of strength out at the ends.... JMO
I tied mine into the bearing flange, but just the edge.
The diff that came out of the car wasn't quite as short, it wasn't backbraced, and it was easily identifiable as "BOW" shaped. Even from a distance...
This is the new diff, I'm wondering if I should have brought the backbrace out even further?
Posted By: MR_P_BODY
Re: 8 3/4 Back brace question - 12/20/08 03:35 AM
I tied mine into the bearing flange, but just the edge.
The diff that came out of the car wasn't quite as short, it wasn't backbraced, and it was easily identifiable as "BOW" shaped. Even from a distance...
This is the new diff, I'm wondering if I should have brought the backbrace out even further?
I dont know, it looks fairly short(the housing width)
so it would deflex less. I went out on to the flange
just short of the wall so I could weld there
The diff that came out of the car wasn't quite as short, it wasn't backbraced, and it was easily identifiable as "BOW" shaped. Even from a distance...
This is the new diff, I'm wondering if I should have brought the backbrace out even further?
I dont know, it looks fairly short(the housing width)
so it would deflex less. I went out on to the flange
just short of the wall so I could weld there
Posted By: 70shaker
Re: 8 3/4 Back brace question - 12/20/08 06:49 PM
Thanks for the input guys