Is there a better cam for this 505 with exhaust maifold

With a 2200 stall 3.23 gears and 28 inch tall tires why bother should work great the way it is don't think you could change much with that and manifolds + 2 1/2 exhaust. and still have it work right.


You need a wholesale change 3000 stall 3.7 gears 3" X pipe exhaust (and made headers) then something in a 242 to 246 @.050 intake and 246 to 250 @ .050 exhaust might be the ticket

right now 2300 cruising is going to be 60 MPH so right where you want to be with this stall.



If you don't have a H pipe or X pipe at least add the H pipe!

I'd think your convert (or lack thereof) and gear is hurting the car moreso than the cam.

a 230@.05 camshaft on a 505 stroker certainly does leave something on the table as far as HP and Torque. So if peak HP and Tq is all someone is concerned about, by all means change the cam.
A more realistic way in my mind is to look at the area under the curve and consider how the car will be used and what is the realistic expectation for performance as well as drivability. That combo will make a very reliable street combo that will absolutely roast the tires any time you want to. No, it's not a high rpm screamer and I suspect from your post that, that's not what it was intended to be.
Personally I probably would've spec'd something slightly different, but I bet the owner has a lot of fun with it just the way it is.

The real problem is the dyno operator. It's easy to say "you're leaving power on the table" but a dyno isn't a street car. If its blowing the tires off as it is, what will more power do?

R.

This is why I asked the questions.

It sound like most of the owner's criteria are met. And his gauge for more power will simply be his butt-meter. He has a low maintenance fun to drive car now. You might not want to mess with that. Answer this, was he happy with the power/performance before the dyno run?

A little more power would be had with the first two cams that Dwayne has for sale above. The third cam will make even more power.

One of the problems with the hydraulic roller in an exhaust manifold car is that the ramps are pretty lazy from the seat to 0.050". So seat timing is relatively large relative to the 0.050" numbers. The manifold car will respond very favorably to less advertised duration with more 0.050" duration.

That's not a bad choice but a little conservative for the 4.25" arm in that motor, something around 238/242 @.050 .585/570 lift and 112-113 spread in at ~107-108 would give you close to the same intake closing but get the valve up and open a little bit earlier and help extend the powerband another 400-500RPM. 230 is a little short for a 500" motor IMHO it just limits the breathing up high when the stroker piston speed starts churning at a comparatively low RPM.

I had a 252/258 @.050 on 112 Straightline HR in my old 508 (the same motor I sold to Paul PHJ426) and it was really mellow sounding with headers....made MAD power and torque everywhere but sounded suprisingly docile at idle. That motor had headers though so with manifolds you don't want to run a lot of exhaust duration. The 'trick' to running exhaust manifolds with a stroker is you have to find ways to make the intake and exhaust tracts work 'on their own' since you're taking away any benefits the overlap draw at a proportionally lower RPM. An agressive higher lift intake, wider centers and a slower exhaust ramp to hold on to as much cylinder pressure as possible (for as long as reasonable) to push through the restrictive manifold.

My 'rule of thumb' with a street stroker is I want to put as big an intake lobe on it as I can....up to the point where it is just about to start killing torque at the low end of the rpm range/powerband...compared to a stock stroke motor that's a bit bigger than a 230 @ .050. I'm sure it works very well, but to me that's kind of a broomstick for a 505.

Too much torque down low makes it tough to hook and then you run out of steam too early....kind of like the Olds 455 or a 428FE used to.

Being a roller I'm sure they could regrind another 10-12 degrees into it....just on a slightly smaller base circle....on a stroker the 238/242 I suggested could be worth 40-50hp and 500 rpm with no appreciable loss of torque off the bottom just on extending the powerband 238 @.050 is about the smallest I would ever put in a 4.25" stroke street motor, in fact I just speced a Bullet HR for a similar combo for a customer in Austrailia.

If he doesn't mind going to a solid one of Fast68Plymouths grinds might be just the ticket but the .612 F.A.S.T. racing oriented grind I suspect will have too agressive of a ramp for normal street use....check with him well worth looking into.

Also a tight 9 1/2" converter (maybe 3200 FB stall /4200-4400 flash) would feel very good on the street and cruise nice and feel almost stock-ish tight at 65mph with highway gears behind a 505 and really allow that thing to roll-on... if you 'get it right' a 500 (with a manual VB) will accelerate about as hard from 45 mph IN HIGH GEAR as a stout 440 will kicking down to passing gear from the same 45mph roll.

The duration adv. is 280in/282ex at .006 lift. These are the Comp Cams XFI lobes.
I will present the altenatives provided to the owner!
Thanks for all the helpfull imput everyone.