Don't forget that all that extra fuel is washing down your cylinder walls and fouling your oil. Pull your dipstick, I bet your oil is black as diesel oil after only a little drive time. Not good!
Without a wide band, a good reference book and a little experience the real fix will be a bit of a problem.
You will need small drill bits for the PVCRs. Something in the .060 range +/-. If you over drill them, inserting wires can get you back close.
But the balance between the mains and the PVCRs are just part of the issue. The transition slots are way fat as are all the metering block metering holes. This is a race carb and is metered as such.
All these things can be changed/adjusted, but it is too much hassle for most people.
Every carb I have messed with has needed at least tweaked to the particular engine. And some are not even remotely close. The WOT is usually not too bad. It is the idle, transitions and cruise that typically need the most attention.
Some of the changes can be made seat of the pants. But cruise and some of that really needs to be done with a wide band. And a good Holley book. It takes time and experiments.
The cruise should end up in the 14.7 range +/-. But most of the other adjustments are not so clear cut.
I do not mean to make this sound difficult, but there is a lot going on with the carb from idle to cruise. And all the circuits overlap which makes targeting the issue that much more problematic.
It is too small for your application, but believe it or not, the carb that consistently needs the least amount of mods to get really close to most engines I have messed with is the good old 3310 (750). From 340s to mild 400s, it is one of the best street and street/strip carbs I have seen.