) ran a 1.394 60 ft and 10.01 at 132. MPH and another 1.401 with a 10.04 at 131.9 MPH this weekend with 1/4 Max ladder bars and Strange Engr. double adjustable coil overs with 150 lb springs, extension set at 5 clicks form dead soft and 4 clicks on the compression, 10.5x31x15W M/T ET drag slicks, there is more left in it, I need to test it some more and try the different settings on the shocks on a good track 
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What is the rest of your combo?
440 .055 over stock stroke
indy ez-1 heads and intake w/1050carb
660 lift cam 1.5 rockers
727 8in converter done by lenny 5400 stall
d60 4.56 gears 32 x 14x 15 tires
weight 3030 with me in it
best so far is 10.51 if i can get 60ft downs i be happy
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Id definitely go with the ladder bar and coil over setup. The 60's will be more consistent. I have a 2900 lb duster small block with 1.30 60 ft. My 60s vary about .004 in a day
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Competition engineering ladder link with qa1 coilovers.
My coil overs are 16.5 inches end to end extended with around seven inches of travel, mine is a street car so keep that in mind. Mine go through the trunk floor for the upper mounts and are mounted onto the roll bar down bars in the trunk, no bending or signs of stress to them so far, six yeas on the street and strip, 300 to 400 passes and 1300 street miles or so 
O I use to drive another Duster with single adjustable AVO brand coil over shocks that had three inches of travel 
it was a foot brake car and it would top the rear shocks out on the starting line when foot stalling it above 3000 RPM 
My message is to get coil over shocks with enough travel to use on your car I have 150 rate springs, some racers like 130 lb rate on there coil over cars, mine work fine for me, maybe they should be softer 
IHTHs
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i dont know jack sh%$ but the way i see your setup, it looks like an endless instant center. that is the same suspension pro stocks used in the 70s and it worked. i would lower the top bar a hole, maybe raise the spring eye a hole and work with what you have before spending the money on changing it. your car is not really that fast plus you have a huge tire on the back. i dont think ladders would pick you up that much
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If you ask me.. the stall on that converter is kind of high. 5400 for a big block car..
Quote:My current T/A 8 inch SS converter flashes to 5800 to 6000 RPM depending on the track elevation and weather, I shift it at or close to 7000 RPM and it drops back to 5800 to 6000 RPM according to the VDO Extreme playback tach. My old ten inch custom built converter flashed to 4400 RPM foot stalling and it would drop back more to around 4800 to 5200 RPM depending on the shift RPM, the 8 inch is .2 ET and 2 MPH faster than the ten inch was with no other changes
If you ask me.. the stall on that converter is kind of high. 5400 for a big block car..
I have a T/A 9 inch SS converter I will try next, test, test and test some more
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i dont know jack sh%$ but the way i see your setup, it looks like an endless instant center. that is the same suspension pro stocks used in the 70s and it worked. i would lower the top bar a hole, maybe raise the spring eye a hole and work with what you have before spending the money on changing it. your car is not really that fast plus you have a huge tire on the back. i dont think ladders would pick you up that much
Well I read the original post this AM and I was thinking the exact same thing!...EVERYTHING Sixpac said. You have some decent pieces in that motor and at 3000lbs with driver SOMETHING ELSE is wrong. If everything looks safe under the car e.g.- weld integrity etc...I would only put a good pair of shocks on it. Maybe D.A. Strange without the coilovers or even the adj Rancheros. That MPH reflects about flywheel 525 HP. I'd suggest some of the more frequent oversites;
1)Hoodscoop and/or sealing problem
2)Carb improperly adjusted
3)What sparkplugs and gap AND wires? AND ignition?
You'd be surprised how much ET/MPH you can loose from those 3 alone.
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i dont know jack sh%$ but the way i see your setup, it looks like an endless instant center. that is the same suspension pro stocks used in the 70s and it worked. i would lower the top bar a hole, maybe raise the spring eye a hole and work with what you have before spending the money on changing it. your car is not really that fast plus you have a huge tire on the back. i dont think ladders would pick you up that much
Quote:I would move both of your attachments down one hole
I'm looking at trying moving the bars around to see if it helps don't know if you can tell by the pics but 1 arm is at a different angle than the other so more t n t is definatly in my plans
Do you know the intersecting points(instant center maybe) of the current set up? If not look up how to compute the instant center of your set up and calculate it BTW, I seem to remember the reason the old Pro racers got away from the ladder link rear suspension was that they where breaking the main leaf at the front spring eyes Not good 
Is your leaf spring mounts to the rear end housing a floater? It doesn't look like it is the reason I'm asking, I'm not even sure if it should be or not
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Is your leaf spring mounts to the rear end housing a floater? It doesn't look like it is the reason I'm asking, I'm not even sure if it should be or not
No does not look like it
was going to take the car out but they are calling for rain so guess i have to wait beside i didn't get a chance to put the other set of slicks on
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My Duster has a leaf-link in it, but it differs a bit from what you have there. My upper housing bracket has 2 holes and the front is a modified stock framerail. The car doesn't have near the tire you do and 60'd in the 1.36-1.38 range at Norwalk, 1.40 everywhere else with a tired ole motor at 3150#.
As mentioned, I would address some other things before changing the suspension.
Good Luck
