STUSKA ENGINE DYNOMOMETERS???

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Anyone here..besides Randy Johnson(Dartin)ever had an engine on one?...what was your opinion of it,as far as accuracy goes? I'm just curious! Thanks in advance! Randy

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I have had motors on the local Studka as well as on several different DTS and a Superfow, there all measuring devices Make sure the dyno operator and the dyno are current on the mandatory software upgrades and are willing to calibrate the dyno for your motor, see if they use a flywheel or not on thiers The local one didn't use a flywheel until we did one of my motors on thier dyno with a 30 lb. flywheel on it, you have to add the flywheel weight into the software tables The flywheel helps the motor to not accelerate rapidily when the dyno operator opens the throttle quickly, it wll not control the acceleration as quickly as it will with the flywheel on, it will rev way past the preset bottom RPM start limits and it takes a short while for the Studka dynos to pull the motor back below the starting RPM. The DTS do a lot better job of controlling this I try to use the flywheel that will be on the motor so why not duplicate what it will be in the car Is this your first time dyno tetsing a motor? If so let us know what you think when done My pucker factors goes to the moon every time they start a pull Even after hundreds of pulls There are two methods to do the dyno test pulls, manually and automated, I like the automated They can set the acceleration rate also, from 100 RPM per second to 1000 RPM per second, I think these numbers are accurate on the Studka software settings I think the industry standard is either 300 RPM per second or 600 RPM per second Each pulls takes longer at 300 per versus 600 per Have them do two pulls with no changes other than using 300 per and 600 per second recording rate and look at both sheets to see what differences there are and then decide which rate you want to use

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The dyno in question uses no flywheel... it has its
own starter... he does use the auto mode for the
acceleration rate on the pulls... I'm sure I seen
600 as the rate when I was on it

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All of the dyno I've used have thier own starters on the dyno driveshafts or internally, none of them used the starter to operate the flywheel ring gear to start the motors I've used both the 300 per and the 600 per, not sure which one we ended up using OP, make sure that the dyno sheets show that the HP and torque are equal at 5250 RPM If not something is wrong with that dyno or the software set up on it I just remember another thing about the recording rate, it can capture and record information from 50 RPM increments up to whatever the upper levels are. I like 100 RPM increments, some people like 50 RPM increments I've had both, as I said I like and use the 100 RPM setting One last thing is the start and finish RPM, I like to start off the first pulls with 2500 or 3000 RPM for the lower limits and 5000 or 5500 RPM for the upper limit. If the motor is new it will take anywheres from 5 to 12 full pulls to seat the rings and quit gaining power on each pull Once it levels off(repeats within 1% ) we will look at the results and then decide to change the RPM settings, if it is a street motor with a 3000 RPM converter we may leave the lower RPM limit at 3000 RPM and raise the upper to 6000 RPM if the motor shows that it is still gaining HP at the old upper RPM limit. I try to use 500 RPM above the peak HP settings for the upper RPM stop settings, I have seen jetting make the peak HP setting RPM increase, go up from 5900 RPM to 6300 RPM I've also seen almost no change in power and torque from 6500 RPM to 7200 RPM on a race motor with high compression and a big cam I like to raise the upper RPM until I see a difenint(SP?) falling off of the motors peak HP RPM. Good luck, have fun

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Anyone here..besides Randy Johnson(Dartin)ever had an engine on one?...what was your opinion of it,as far as accuracy goes? I'm just curious! Thanks in advance! Randy

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Yes. I like it and will continue to do back to it/him. It is as much the operator as the equipment. The owner/operator I use is small time, and a Pontiac guy. He sells nothing but dyno time.

I dont know if it is accurate, but it was very, very consistent. My engine sat on the dyno for a week and I made a lot of changes (carbs, intakes, intake modifications, spacers, and lash) and a lot of pulls. About 1/3 of the pulls were duplicate runs just so I could convince myself that the results were repeatable, adding validity to the results observed for each change.

I run regularly with 3 other guys that have dyno results for their engines from nationally recognized shops. I have their dyno sheets in my possession, and their car weights. Based on their data, they should all be faster than me. None of them are.

But don't lose perspective on what a dyno is; a tool. If you are not going to use it as a tool, why spend the money, as the numbers mean little otherwise. The only numbers that have meaning you'll find on your time slip.

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Final numbers are nice to brag about but most people miss the point of using a dyno to tune a motor. It's the change you see from start to finish, finding out what the motor wants and what doesn't work. As long as the dyno is repeatable it doesn't matter which brand you use. Dave

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The Dyno is a tool, use it wisely.

The ultimate gauge of Hp is what it runs when installed in the car and run at the track. An engine could make 900HP on the dyno but a run at the track could show it only making 600 ... which do you believe ?

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how much is it for a day on st clair's dyno?

400? 500? 600?

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$500

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... From the responses I'm getting,sounds like the Stuska is slanted a bit toward the stingy side...which to me,is preferable.

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Thanks for sharing your experiences,Brad! Like I said earlier..my main concern for using the dyno is to make sure there are NO issues,BEFORE re-installing the engine back into the X. Setting up a good baseline tune is another reason. Horsepower and Torque data,and the RPM's the peaks are achieved..is just "icing on the cake"

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I have always considered them a measuring toool to get results from changes made on them, I hope the one your using has AFR on both sides If it does you can get the jetting and timing in the ball park but don't consider that the ultimate tune up,I always do the final tuning wth the motor in the car For the best ET and MPH look at the time slip and adjust from there What works best on the dyno isn't always the fastest at the track