Regular methanol to M5 methanol? (Results)

You might do a search over on the bullet. I bought a drum of it but havent really tried it yet. Seems like most carb guys were going about 5 steps. I believe it oxygenated with nitropropane. It sure smells like it.

Here is a copy and paste from VP. Read the M3 then look at the 5.

VP offers several types of methanol racing fuels, each of which offers top quality for applications ranging from drag racing, circle track and road racing to off road and powerboats. Among the most important features of VP’s methanol products is consistency in production and pack- aging. Much of the cheaper methanol on the market is reclaimed from industrial processes and far more likely to contain contaminants. VP doesn’t cut corners or ‘reclaim’ methanol. While that leads to slightly higher prices, our customers can trust our product and have much greater assurance they won’t have to deal with “bad fuel” issues.

Why offer three types of methanol?
VP has always emphasized giving our customers options. We try to make sure we always have the absolute best performing option available, making the most power possible given an application’s parameters. But there are other considerations—budget, fuel rules, or environment for example—that sometimes dictate the selection of a fuel other than one that makes the most power.

M1TM - M1 is the best straight methanol on the market. No frills, but consistently 99.85+% pure and always packaged in lined drums, as are all VP fuels. That means no contaminants and peace of mind from knowing you don’t have to deal with fuel issues. When fuel rules require the use of straight methanol with no additives, M1 is the best option.

M3TM - M3 contains combustion and lubrication additives that improve vaporization and increase burning speed. These factors, combined with a better seal of the rings due to the lubrication additive, make substantially more power than straight methanol—up to a 50 Hp gain in a 1030 Hp engine. The improvement in throttle response is also significant—up to a 5% increase in torque across a wider rpm range. On-track results indicate a .02-.03 improvement in ET in the 1/8 mile. The improved combustion also helps the thermal efficiency of the air/fuel mixture. This expands the range of ignition, contributes to better ‘startability’ and more consistency run to run, while lowering the exhaust temperature 40-100°. Not only will M3’s improved combustion make more power and offer better protection against detonation, it also inhibits the noxious fumes you typically get with standard methanol, so it’s much easier on your eyes and nose. A somewhat unexpected benefit of M3 is a 30% decrease in fuel consumption. That means if you typically use 40 gallons over a race weekend, you’ll only need about 25-30 gallons of M3. M3 also includes an anticorrosion package, so there’s no need to add anything else to address lubrication or corrosion issues.

To maintain the original properties and comply with Health and
Safety regulations, this fuel should be handled and stored in a cool
place and always maintained in tightly sealed drums.
Property/
Typical Values
M1
M3
M5 Test
Methods
Specific Gravity
@ 60F
.795
.784
.816
ASTM D 4052
Reid Vapor
Pressure
4.60
8.57
7.66
ASTM D 323
Color Clear Clear Clear

Since M3 is not pure methanol, it won’t pass a water test. But where permitted, it will substantially improve performance in 60-70% of all applications, requiring no jetting or timing changes—just pour it in and get up to 5% more Hp. However, not every vehicle will run quicker with M3. For example, in applications that typically run very rich, M3’s improved vaporization will lead to less volumetric efficiency, such that the car will run faster MPH, but stumble at the launch. In most of these instances, jetting changes will reverse that effect. In carbureted systems, smaller squirters and less aggressive pump cams will be required, while injection systems will require leaning out the idle system (not the main system). For customers who want more power but prefer not to deal with these adjustments, M5 will be the best option.

M5TM – M5 is simply the best performing methanol on the market. With its upgraded combustion additives, M5 will make more power than M3, while offering the same or better protection against detonation. Like M3, M5 offers a wider range for tuning, as reflected by the fact that the bracket racers who have helped us in testing have experienced no problems with tuning or tuning consistency. M5 also reduces noxious methanol fumes, although not as well as M3. That means that while M5 is the best choice for making the most power in unrestricted applications, M3 will still be the best option for some venues, notably enclosed stadiums. M5 is not pure methanol and won’t pass a water test.

M2TM Upper Lube – Designed for use in methanol-powered engines, M2 protects valves, guides, cylinder walls, fuel pumps and aluminum fuel systems, and extends pump life. Using electrochemical plating technology—a big improvement over just using oil—M2 leaves a thin film of lubrication to protect against corrosion between races. Recommended for use with M1 or any other standard methanol, while it’s not required with M3 or M5 due to their lubrication additives.

Technical questions on applications and tuning can be referred to VP’s Technical Department at 812-878-2026 or [Email]tech@vpracingfuels.com.[/Email] VP’s methanol products can be ordered via any of VP’s regional distribution centers, contact information for which is available on VP’s website at vpracingfuels.com. VP’s methanol products are available in 5-gallon pails and 54-gallon drums, as well as bulk.

We are using M5 in our Outlaw car. Yes you use more fuel but we started with M5 and have no basis for comparison. We use electronic fuel injection/BS3 on the hemi. The extra power is a plus but besides that it also has lube already in it and it really doesn't cost much more than M1. It is nasty to the eyes...FOR SURE.

Web site says start 15 percent richer! Greg that is back to what I was thinking at the start,but a man on YB told me to go 6-8 sizes bigger on the return pill,which would lean it out.Maybe he meant by bigger putting more fuel in it,which would be going smaller on the pill(jet)in the return line.
I hope my dyno guy knows a little more than me and between the 2 of us we can get it right.Its like Bob said not that much higher and I have seen people cars at the track be .50 faster in the 1/8 mile after switching to it.In my case I cannot afford to have to T&T 4-5 times to get it right.It just cost so much now days just to get to the track and if you don't make a little $$$ it becomes almost impossible.