Moparts

"HELP"

Posted By: Fast Yeti

"HELP" - 05/22/12 01:51 PM

I ran my car the other night at the local 1/8 mi track. I was only able to get in one time trial before eliminations. During the first round , I oiled down the shut down. I had about 6500rpms thru the traps when I heard a pop and saw smoke in my rear view mirror. I shut the power off but the car remained in high gear. I don't know what the oil pressure was when it happened. I found out that the oil filter became loose. Out of 9 quarts, there were approx 3-4 quarts left. The oil appeared to be ok but I still need to cut open the filter.
What would be a reasonable to make sure the engine is not hurt.
Posted By: MR_P_BODY

Re: "HELP" - 05/22/12 02:02 PM

Fire it up with full oil and see what the pressure is...
if its the same as before... run it
Posted By: n20mstr

Re: "HELP" - 05/22/12 02:07 PM

3-4 QTS LEFT IN THE PAN ON SHUT DOWN?? THAT SHOULD BE FINE.

FILL IT UP, CORRECT THE PROB WHY THE FILTER BLEW OFF/LEAK? AND ITS PROB FINE
Posted By: pittsburghracer

Re: "HELP" - 05/22/12 03:31 PM

Standard or high volume oil pump?
Posted By: Fast Yeti

Re: "HELP" - 05/22/12 03:36 PM

Muscle Motors high volume pump
Posted By: MR_P_BODY

Re: "HELP" - 05/22/12 03:39 PM

Quote:

Muscle Motors high volume pump




Whats the oil pressure at higher RPMs... if its too
high you might only need a standard volume pump
Posted By: Challenger 1

Re: "HELP" - 05/22/12 03:48 PM

I would suggest using a racing oil filter, not one made for street cars.

I bet also your engine should be OK. Did you applogize to the track operator?
Posted By: pittsburghracer

Re: "HELP" - 05/22/12 03:49 PM

Quote:

Muscle Motors high volume pump




As the year goes on I think we are going to hear more and more stories about Mopar guys oiling down the track or hitting the wall. I and many other member have been having problem with high oil pressure using oil volume oil pumps. I don't know were or how these pump are built but there is a big problem brewing. My 408's oil pressure was going from 65# up to over 130# during a pass. The only reason I was able to catch it fast was by downloading the run's from my racepak to my computer and breaking down the run. I had an update post a week ago about switching from 20-50 VR1 to 10-30 Brad Penn and switching to a standard volume pump. The pressure is now rock steady at 65# during the run and the car picked up ET. I wish you and many others the best of luck.
Posted By: Evil Spirit

Re: "HELP" - 05/22/12 03:54 PM

Yeah, a standard volume pump, or if it's a BB one of the better adjustable pressure limit setups. Or both...
Posted By: 340B5

Re: "HELP" - 05/22/12 03:54 PM

That "pop" you heard was probably oil blowing past the filter seal. Sounds like a small shotgun going off. As stated above, reinstall oil filter and check pressure at a rev.
Posted By: pittsburghracer

Re: "HELP" - 05/22/12 03:59 PM

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Number=6664631

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...rue#Post7024153

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...rue#Post7207474
Posted By: Evil Spirit

Re: "HELP" - 05/22/12 03:59 PM

Pretty much any pump I install I pull out the pressure valve and spring and "blueprint" it, making sure it slides easily, chamferring the passages, etc. Even if the pressure valve opens, the oil has to have somewhere to go, and sometimes the relief passages are poorly cast and restrictive, causing high oil pressure.
Posted By: tubtar

Re: "HELP" - 05/22/12 04:00 PM

Quote:

Did you applogize to the track operator?




Never mind him........ it's the racers who had to wait who need an apology. Don't ask me how I know that.
I'd bet the motor's fine here and glad nothing else got roont.
Posted By: jamesc

Re: "HELP" - 05/22/12 04:13 PM

oil systems seem to cause a lot of confusion and they're not very complicated. i used to be of the "MORE OIL" mindset when in reality the smallest pump that will develop the desired pressure is the right pump.

personally i NEVER just take a pump out of the box and install it. you need to disassemble the pump, inspect, deburr and clean it paying close attention to the relief valve. these are a low tolerance fit and any small piece of debris can cause them to stick.

i wouldn't think any pumps are delivered from the manufacture with a discharge pressure higher than 80# especially the more common pumps. if you have a pump that's making over 100# either the relief valve is hanging or there's some issue with the relief spring.
Posted By: Cab_Burge

Re: "HELP" - 05/22/12 04:18 PM

Quote:


What would be a reasonable to make sure the engine is not hurt.


I would, and have, pull the oil pan and check all the rod bearings At 6500 RPM there is a lot of oil being slung around so it is possible that the 3 or 4 quarts that drain back into the oil pan after it sat for a while was not being use to oil the motor, besides it had no oil pressure while it was being driven by the trans and converter while you slowed down and stopped the motor from turning
Posted By: 23T Hemmee

Re: "HELP" - 05/22/12 04:47 PM

Quote:

Quote:

Did you applogize to the track operator?




Never mind him........ it's the racers who had to wait who need an apology.


The racers aren't the ones that provide us with a place to run, or have to clean the mess up.

All 4 quarts in the pan means is that 5 got pushed out wherever the filter let go and never made it to the crankshaft. Depending on how quick you caught it, you might be fine or you might have wiped some bearings. Believe I would do what Cab said to be sure.
Posted By: Fast Yeti

Re: "HELP" - 05/22/12 05:25 PM

Is checking the bottom of the bearings enough without removing the bearings on the top side of the rods?
Posted By: 23T Hemmee

Re: "HELP" - 05/22/12 06:26 PM

Since it sounds like you were under decel, if the bottom half and the crank look alright, the top half should be also, although it wouldn't take that much longer to check them too.....
Posted By: Cab_Burge

Re: "HELP" - 05/22/12 06:31 PM

Quote:

Is checking the bottom of the bearings enough without removing the bearings on the top side of the rods?


I would check both, push the rod up a little and push the tops out( push from the non bearing retainer tab side) to look at them, reverse the procedure to reinstall them. The tops are the one pushing on the crankshaft under power and compression If either one, top or bottom, has no bearing crush to hold them in the rods, replace them they should hold themselves in the rods, not fall out or drop out
Posted By: Dodgem

Re: "HELP" - 05/22/12 08:26 PM

I just love these get the volume you want without over pressuring not sure if anything is available for small blocks but you could use a stock spring in a high volume pump i guess?


http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/milbrbadregk.html
Posted By: firefighter3931

Re: "HELP" - 05/23/12 04:38 AM

If the pan is removed you might as well check the bearings.

As mentioned above you most likely didn't hurt anything but it never hurts to verify



Ron
Posted By: matt426

Re: "HELP" - 05/23/12 09:23 AM

Ive seen over the years on this forum over and over the same problem;20 years ago i had the same issues couldnt ajust the oil preasure correctly on my race hemi, millidon twin pick up adjustable relief valve trw pump.came to the conclusion the relief system cannot flow enought oil to maintain the preasure the spring is set at: I now port out the casting around the piston widows with a small round burr in a die grinder and smooth and massage the piston window with a small stone in the grinder, use the correct grade of oil, in my case 20 w 50 i use a accusump never had any problems since.
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