You don't absolutely need a lot for 600hp in a 727.
But 50 yr old parts can fail, so if you have the money a few extras are risk reduction.
Number 1 item is a good valve body (Griner, A&A, CRT, etc)
For safety the aftermarket front drum (resists explosion after a sprag failure).
A few small cost items for piece of mind:
- Reinforced front band strut ~$25
- All new bushings and washers for the 1st build (refresh maybe not)
- Babbit converter bushing in the trans pump housing
- If you don't spend for the hardened pump gears, at least put new ones in (cheap)
- Billet rear servo and HD retainer (mrRandyj) *won't crack*
- That '67 front clutch piston will only take 10 springs, so you might want to upgrade to a later piston for more springs if the valve body and builder recommend it for shift timing. But filling it with 10 new springs may be fine.
A 727 can do 600 hp with very little changes. But some
things are nice to have for additional piece of mind or to assure a good part.
Below are some other options:
If you are going to a trans brake, the trans must be modified for its use during the build, so now is the time to put it in.
For example, drilled oil pressure relief holes in the clutch, drilled case for the solenoid wire, relocated vent,
number of front clutch springs, etc.
I don't have any cook book list to give, but here is my 2-cents, consider all advice.
For the front band, don't use kevlar. I like the solid/ridgid band rather than the flex band. Red lining. The rear band isn't so critical, and the kevlar should last a life time if the trans works properly. Typically a trans brake likes 15 springs in the front clutch. Depending on the manual valve body selected, 12-15 springs.
- A good valve body (with a brake if applicable)
- Check everything for wear (pump rotors, drums, ring rubbing surfaces, etc.)
- Relocate the vent with a brake (plug the front vent)
- All new bushings (just do it now, any refresh maybe not)
- All new thrust washers (cheap insurance)
- Set clutch pack clearances for the application
ex/ 0.015" per front disc (0.060" for 4 discs, 0.075" for 5 discs)
ex/ 0.025"-0.035" rear with 4 discs
- Check sprag for wear, at a minimum new rollers and springs
- The best improvement would be with a 16 roller sprag like the A&A Ultimate or Coan Super Sprag
- 3.8 or 4.2 front band servo lever (see valve body instructions)
- Rigid/solid front band (IMO releases better than flex band)
- Reinforced front band strut (servo to band)
- Babbit converter bushing in the trans pump housing
- Pre-'71 "solid" front servo with 2 springs, or shim the newer oil cushioned servo so it is solid
- Shim the rear servo so the cushion spring is almost solid
- A billet rear servo with a stronger retainer and stiffer spring is good with low band apply. <see mrRandyj>
I like the oil passage enlargement mods (ported reaction shaft support between the rings, clutch retainer holes 5/32", 1/16" oil hole to the sprag).
-And an aluminum or aftermarket steel front drum is a safety consideration.