ARP Main Studs- Do these look right?

Tr...I think you may have some "NOS" stock there...lol...sounds like an old set as well. They were all marked ARP however.The exception would be if they had them custom made for some reason, but not if it was a listed ARP set as was noted here already.

To the OP,ARP has/had changed the torque specs many times over on these studs. If they were an old set anyhow, then 100# would be correct.They have changed the tensile ratings on these over the last 5 or so years. Also, if the builder used standard ARP lube, and not the new ARP Ultra Lube, then it would be 110#. My guess is he went with 100#. They do NOT , appear to me, to be a new set, but could be a unused set he had laying around for a few years? More questions than answers on this one. I would be a bit leary of what else may have gone on there...

Good tips. I'm going to send some pictures yo ARP tomorrow and see if they are just and old (but new)pieced together set. Having both hex and 12-point nuts seems odd to me too.

Unfortunately this is just he tip of the iceberg. After pulling off their own timing cover I found that is was making contact with the chain (made by them too). Not a big deal as I found it before it was run. Also, the cam timing was set at 114 when I asked for 112 (again not a major issue) BUT I did notice there were A LOT of small chips already coming off the bronze gear and it was so tight in there it took both a screwdriver to unscrew it off the cam along with a lot of force from underneath using the handle end of another screwdriver. I n addition they cut my intake (fine) but there are a bunch of aluminum shavings in the lifter galley.

I pretty bummed right now because I know I'm going to have to take this thing all the way back down and pay more to have it checked out. Hopefully the shop will step up and fix the issues. They are considered a reputable shop and this motor could just be a fluke.

Again, I appreciate the input, I want to get all the info I can before I contact the shop so I don't make anything a bigger issue than it needs to be.

I need a beer....

I forgot to mention the new timing chain has 9/16" slop in it. My old chain had less. Is they way too much for a new chain. Obviously I'm a little rusty with engine building but trying to catch back up.

i think i would find another shop. from what u described on what u found, why go back there?? they don't seem to do quality work.

I agree,,,what he is finding in unacceptable, especially the shavings. It may be a good shop, but they didnt have their " good" guys working on it for sure. Tear it down now, it will be a lot easier than later.

Sorry for your trouble.

I am inclined to believe that the "new" studs that I bought were indeed special ordered by a major Nascar builder.

On another note, I dont believe that Milodon studs are broached.

i'm no F1 engine builder but finding trash in the engine and parts crashing into each other breaks rules # 1 & 2 in my book. my father summed up engine assembly cleanliness when i was just a kid...he said "you can't get an engine too clean".

i've never forgotten those words.

I'm pretty bummed right now but I agree with everyone it needs to come apart. Hopefully I can get something resolved with them. They are a well known operation, perhaps they will stand by their work.

What ever happened with the main stud issue? I had my machine shop line hone my engine and I went to studs. Low and behold I have the same strange setup of main studs! Six points on 1,2,3, and 4 and 12 points on number 5. What gives? And the thread engagement bothers me too. I don't want to touch the studs because I don't want to mess with it since its been line honed.

That's the way it used to be, the #5 has to be 12 point to clear the seal retainer. You may also have to shorten the studs slightly to clear the pan. I have never seen a set without the stud protruding completely through the nut, but I would not have much proble using a set like in the pics. I would not back up the studs in the block, the thread engagement there is more important if the block has been alignhoned and because of the material. The nuts will not let go if they are only a little short.

Never mind, somehow my mind played a trick on me once I saw this thread and I suddenly remembered a thread engagement issue with mine that did not exist. I have quite a bit sticking out past the nuts.

I put an oil pan on the block to catch the oil that I kept coating the bores with and haven't looked at the lower end for a while.

I do have the six point nuts though, with the 12 points on the 5th main, just in case anyone else gets this and wonders if they got an old set or something. Mine was purchased around April of 2012.