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looks like he ran 2 straight lenghts from cross member bolts to the hoop. good idea. i'd say the thickness of the straight peices should be heavier gauge then the hoop because of their length. i might make one myself.
after studing his pic again, i think the drive shaft bangin around in the hoop would catch the bolts & rip everything out. one way to find out would to try it. hope that wouldn't happen to anyone.
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A driveshaft let go on one of the FAST RR's a while back. Broke the U joint at the front powershifting 1-2 on a 6"bias ply tire. Even with a properly installed, heavy duty loop(that did its job), it TORE UP the floors and crossmember and broke the transmission output shaft in two and shattered the tailhousing to pieces. You could probably hang 2500 pounds or more off a hardened 833 output shaft and not even bend it let alone break it...
MB
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A driveshaft let go on one of the FAST RR's a while back. Broke the U joint at the front powershifting 1-2 on a 6"bias ply tire. Even with a properly installed, heavy duty loop(that did its job), it TORE UP the floors and crossmember and broke the transmission output shaft in two and shattered the tailhousing to pieces. You could probably hang 2500 pounds or more off a hardened 833 output shaft and not even bend it let alone break it...
MB
So all that damage happened because of (after) the driveshaft hitting the driveshaft loop? Sounds like the yoke got caught on the bolts inside the loop and torqued everything and broke it. For the driveshaft loop to rip the floor up, something more than a driveshaft rattling around inside it has to happen.
You missed the point...
The loop didnt rip the floor up because it wasnt attached at the floor. The loop "contained" the shaft. Im sure it violently "danced" around inside the loop, but the shaft never fell. It bent up the the loop terribly, but it didnt break away. It was one of the US CARTOOL ones that bolts to the 4 bolts of the crossmember.
MB
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The loop didnt rip the floor up because it wasnt attached at the floor. The loop "contained" the shaft. Im sure it violently "danced" around inside the loop, but the shaft never fell. It bent up the the loop terribly, but it didnt break away. It was one of the US CARTOOL ones that bolts to the 4 bolts of the crossmember.
for admitting that.
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combined 12"? overhanging/swinging yoke and u-joint at say 100 mph just under your seat. The rotating twisted mess will rip those arms off in less then a second (6000 rpms, thats 100rpms/hits).
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combined 12"? overhanging/swinging yoke and u-joint at say 100 mph just under your seat. The rotating twisted mess will rip those arms off in less then a second (6000 rpms, thats 100rpms/hits).
Don't most u-joints are going to break at the initial hit, not at speed? I guess you could damage it and have it hold on for a while.
a ujoint can let go anytime & anywhere. i have mine bolted to the floor boards with plates. don't think it's going anywhere. cheap is the wrong way to on safety or ur car.
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I had the car on my lift I grabbed the end of the loop and it was able to hold myself(200lbs) off the ground... Never budged... I'll get Another pic up
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Don't most u-joints are going to break at the initial hit, not at speed? I guess you could damage it and have it hold on for a while.
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My english is not good enough to explain why the loop doesnt need to be super strong. If the shaft breaks and is kept close to centerline it wont do much damage, if that makes any sence
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Hanging 200lbs on it as a test is like checking your timing with a wet finger.
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The wet finger method has always done me right!
for setting timing of course
.jpg "7564229-Driveshaftloop018(Small).jpg")
.jpg "7564230-Driveshaftloop015(Small).jpg")
.jpg "7564236-Driveshaftloop032(Small).jpg")
.jpg "7564239-Driveshaftloop036(Small).jpg")
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Bolt it onto the crossmember with existing through bolts. Drop back of driveshaft and slide hoop up to bracket and bolt together.
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Been this way for 20 years
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No Raff,roll not directed at you.Recentley replaced the old one with a new one and just went into exsisting holes.The old loop was missing the top half and you have to get the whole kit so I just installed it complete.
Guess I could shorten it up a tad
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Here's a $54 one, no drilling required:
http://compare.ebay.com/like/330716703817?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar
Bolts to the crossmember. I always pass tech. Then again, the tech guy never looks under my car.
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Nice looking loops you guys built! I'd run either if I needed one.
Don't you like how this board looks at new ideas lol
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Satty,
Hold 5lbs in your hand.
Then grab one end of a 2 foot long piece of wood and put the 5 pounds on the other end... A bit harder to hold up.
Nothing wrong with your loops, just the suspended ring and the way it will lever against your attachment points. I'd find a way to solidly mount the ring so there is another attachment point than just the crossmember bolts.
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Satty,
Hold 5lbs in your hand.
Then grab one end of a 2 foot long piece of wood and put the 5 pounds on the other end... A bit harder to hold up.
Nothing wrong with your loops, just the suspended ring and the way it will lever against your attachment points. I'd find a way to solidly mount the ring so there is another attachment point than just the crossmember bolts.
Yep... like putting a bolt through the ring into the
floor pan with a reinforcement inside.... but that
takes drilling
is put away and this 
Quote:New ideas don't mean good ideas. Running a lever arm that long to support the loop is a BAD idea. It will just be more shrapnel heading your way with any kind of front yoke /cross failure - and possibly even with a rear failure. Loop support should be in line with the loop and bolted through the floor / frame with at least 4 bolts. JMO. I have experienced shaft failures from both ends. The can be very mild or extremely violent. You gotta build for the latter.
Nice looking loops you guys built! I'd run either if I needed one.
Don't you like how this board looks at new ideas lol
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Over the last 40 plus years of racing I have yet to break a front u joint, twisted off drive shafts,never broke a tail shaft , spread rear yokes, blew out lots of rear joints. That $20 dollar universal loop is all you need. NHRA says it must be mounted within 6" of the joint. Keep it centered at 6" from the Joint and the bolts won't catch and tear your stuff.