when is a torque strap necessary?

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i think a strap is always necessary whenever your not worried about the looks of the engine compartment. this is my design and its hidden pretty well by the battery and tray. now obviously it doesn't work with power steering but gives you an idea. I don't like mounting off the boss on the front of block as it "could" cause distortion in that cylinder, both of these cars have stock rubber mounts. been like this for 5-6 years now and no trouble



here it is in my 68 b-body

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Sorry, not trying to be Mr. Wizard here, but this needs to be said.
The quality of the parts and the installation is not possible to evaluate from here, let's agree that they were well chosen and have held up well.
What I find troubling is the position of the mounts.
The only resistance it offers to forward and back motion is the angle built into the Heim joints - and they're not designed to take any thrust that way. If you had significant motion (another mount fails, etc.) the Heims would go out of range and fail.
Vertical movement of the block is zero, since the 2 links form a triangle. If either link were removed, or both links mounted at different heights separately, the block could rise and fall with some side motion. It would resist rotation (torquing) but not efficiently.
Side to side movement of the block is zero. If it tried to go right, the links are in tension - good, no harm. If it tries to go left, at least 1 link is in compression and will bend.

The only block motion that is both controlled and safe now is an angle rotating the entire block around the fender mount. This is opposite the way the block will move under power.

In short, the hardware is fine, but the relationships are not helping you.
In order to resist engine rotation, the link must always be in tension (pulling down on the left side, or up on the right), never at 90° to the expected force.

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Sorry, not trying to be Mr. Wizard here, but this needs to be said.
The quality of the parts and the installation is not possible to evaluate from here, let's agree that they were well chosen and have held up well.
What I find troubling is the position of the mounts.
The only resistance it offers to forward and back motion is the angle built into the Heim joints - and they're not designed to take any thrust that way. If you had significant motion (another mount fails, etc.) the Heims would go out of range and fail.
Vertical movement of the block is zero, since the 2 links form a triangle. If either link were removed, or both links mounted at different heights separately, the block could rise and fall with some side motion. It would resist rotation (torquing) but not efficiently.
Side to side movement of the block is zero. If it tried to go right, the links are in tension - good, no harm. If it tries to go left, at least 1 link is in compression and will bend.

The only block motion that is both controlled and safe now is an angle rotating the entire block around the fender mount. This is opposite the way the block will move under power.

In short, the hardware is fine, but the relationships are not helping you.
In order to resist engine rotation, the link must always be in tension (pulling down on the left side, or up on the right), never at 90° to the expected force.

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This is the point where I mention that whenever some expert (and he must be an expert - he's got 790 hp) takes a technical comment as a personal insult, my interest in assisting anyone goes down 1 notch.

I've seen faster cars with less upside down, too.

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for years only a chain was attached whick allow a certain degree of movement and luxury of the rubber mounts . when the motor starts to move to far the chain stops it all.

that might be to simple for many here but it works 100%

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for years only a chain was attached whick allow a certain degree of movement and luxury of the rubber mounts . when the motor starts to move to far the chain stops it all.

that might be to simple for many here but it works 100%

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I cut a chain link in half, welded it to the K member, then run a turnbuckle up to the block from there. Simple design, easy to do, cheap.

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for years only a chain was attached whick allow a certain degree of movement and luxury of the rubber mounts . when the motor starts to move to far the chain stops it all.

that might be to simple for many here but it works 100%

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I cut a chain link in half, welded it to the K member, then run a turnbuckle up to the block from there. Simple design, easy to do, cheap.

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any pics?

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Good thing you asked for pics. Turns out I later welded an "ear" to the side of the motor mount tower on the Kmember. The cut chain is still welded there (there is a zip tie holding some cooler lines) but I see that I didn't like the fact that it was forward of the point where the turnbuckle mounted to the engine.

So the ear on the side of the motor mount tower makes more of a straight line to the motor and that's what I use.