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80s truck hydraulic clutch questions

Posted By: volaredon

80s truck hydraulic clutch questions - 02/12/23 06:31 PM

I am working on converting an 85 d150 from a 727 to an 833od.
I have just about everything I am gonna need to get it done. Waiting to do the job til I do have it all
Including the z bar and linkage. The bell housing I have had provisions for the factory hydraulic clutch. I even have a brand new master/slave assy. I have the bracket that the master clips into "in the works".
Is there a difference in the clutch pedal used with mechanical linkage vs the one used with hydro setup?
Or are they the same? I'm thinking the difference would be in the placement of the pin that the master cylinder pushrod would come off the pedal vs where the mechanical linkage would tie in. Or is this the same for both?
Posted By: Hugh Jorgan

Re: 80s truck hydraulic clutch questions - 02/13/23 12:22 AM

The pedals are different. The hydraulic pedal has an offset piece welded to it.


Old style for mechanical linkage...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/204208029320


Hydraulic pedal assy.....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/282020535528



Posted By: poorboy

Re: 80s truck hydraulic clutch questions - 02/13/23 02:35 AM

There is no "Z" bar or Z bar linkage with the hydraulic clutch.

The hydraulic system replaces the Z bar and its linkage with the master cylinder attached to the plastic tubing that goes to the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder bolts to the bell. The only mechanical connections in a hydraulic clutch is the rod from the pedal to the master cylinder and the rod from the slave to the clutch fork inside of the bell. The fork connects directly to the throw out bearing, as it would with a complete mechanical linkage.
Posted By: volaredon

Re: 80s truck hydraulic clutch questions - 02/13/23 03:41 AM

Originally Posted by poorboy
There is no "Z" bar or Z bar linkage with the hydraulic clutch.

The hydraulic system replaces the Z bar and its linkage with the master cylinder attached to the plastic tubing that goes to the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder bolts to the bell. The only mechanical connections in a hydraulic clutch is the rod from the pedal to the master cylinder and the rod from the slave to the clutch fork inside of the bell. The fork connects directly to the throw out bearing, as it would with a complete mechanical linkage.


Yes I'm aware of all of this. I have the mechanical linkage that goes with it, I was wanting to eliminate that and switch it over. I wasn't sure I wanted to use the factory hydraulic setup to accomplish that or not. I have "most" of that as well. Just lacking the bracket that holds the master at the firewall and maybe the right clutch fork. Looking at the reply above yours, that showed links to the pedal for mechanical linkage and the one for the factory hydraulic, I can modify my pedal to look like the one he shows as being for the hydraulic clutch "no problem" I just didn't know there was a difference between pedals used with either setup.
Posted By: Guitar Jones

Re: 80s truck hydraulic clutch questions - 02/17/23 12:41 AM

The earlier trucks before the hydraulic clutch was in production don't have the holes drilled into the steering column/dash brace to mount the bracket. I did my 74 with a Kobalt cordless drill and a unibit, but I had the dash, steering column and wiring harnesses out of the truck. You will also need to relocate the bulkhead connector.
Posted By: volaredon

Re: 80s truck hydraulic clutch questions - 02/17/23 12:49 AM

I'm hoping not to have to relocate the bulkhead being as how mine's an 85 and that was the first year of that setup... Mines also a June 85 build, real late in the model year. I saw a post about the difference in clutch pedal between hydro and mechanical, I definitely have the mechanical clutch pedal (and all the associated linkage) but I just got a brand new master and slave combo for "that" setup that I'm hoping to be able to incorporate without too much issue. I can modify the clutch pedal I have now easily enough while it's out,
And my dash is coming out all the way to the firewall as well as I am also adding factory air conditioning while I'm at it, and want to check for a water leak down the extreme corner of the driver side cowl/A pillar/floor pan that I discovered back when I first got the truck. It's overall very solid.
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