Starting on my 79 W150, could use some advice, ideas, help

I have taken a few years off from building mopars after retiring. Couldn't stand it, and bought a promising project.

It is a 318-2, Short bed, automatic and everything mechanical is in tact other than missing air cleaner and butchered carb swap.

It hasn't ran in years, all of the potting compound in the ecm, voltage regulators have melted and ran down the firewall and the wiring has been messed with.

Floorboards are on order. Someone had already grafted in some metal and used home expanding crack sealer for the gaps.

I have started taking this rig clear apart and am considering a Gen III Hemi swap.
Will it bolt up to the existing trans/transfer case set up? Has anyone done this?

The Gen III Hemi has the same bell housing bolt pattern as the LA small block.

Thank you very much, I thought I had read that somewhere.

I know there are lots of other issues to overcome as well.

Not sure I can afford it, but will see.

From what I've read, the 318 & 360 magnum engine swaps are cheaper than the Hemi swaps. The early (OBD-1) magnums are said to have the easiest wiring, if you want to keep the fuel injection. These engines can also be swapped to a carburetor if desired.

Thanks QuickDodge, I appreciate the input. I have thought about a 360, a lot. On my other swaps with small blocks I have always gone 340 but they are getting crazy prices.

The Gen III Hemis are getting more common in the salvage yards.

What years of 360s are the OBD-1 magnums? 95-98?

I had purchased a 91 360 a few years ago due to the roller lifters and shaft rocker combo, but never got around to building it prior to moving.

G3 swap has been done a few times,
Mounting it in is the easy part,hardest part is deciding on Carb Vs Fuel injection....stay away from the 545 trans too many issues better off with a 727 518/46RH or any manual trans
http://bouchillonperformance.com/inc/sdetail/669/742

A316/360 Magnum, is an easier swap

What choices are there for Auto/OD transmissions to swap in? If Doing a magnum swap can you just swap in the entire driveline it it s a 4wd?

EDIT: Sorry, I didn't mean to hijack the thread.
I just figured that it would be a logical question with the talk of swapping a gen3 Hemi or Magnum swap.

Easiest fuel injection and overdrive swap would be from 90-93 pickup or ramcharger. Dakota can be used but needs transfer case or front axle swap.
Next easiest is 94-97 but need more electrical interface work and either transfer case or front axle swap.

In any of the above you lose full time 4wd transfer case. Up to you if you want to swap the front axle for something with locking hubs which will necessitate a matching rear axle...

Thanks! Could I use the 727 that is already in the truck along with the converter?

Thank you! I really want to keep the current transfer case and front end if possible.

The problem with the NP203 case is it only fits the 727 auto or an NP435 manual. There are no overdrive transmission it fits (not without mucho dinero)

Just realized that the od response was to a hijacker not the op.

That said you certainly can put a Magnum engine in front of the 727/203 combo. Mostly bolt in but make sure you have the right converter and flexplate for proper balance. Electric will be the biggest hassle but still way easier than a hemi.

Best thing to do is find 1993 W150 or W250 360/518 4wd truck that is rotted out and cheap.Everything you will need is there.W250 will have Dana 60 which is a plus.

That is exactly what I did. Bought a totaled 93 Ramcharger and put the drivetrain in my 75 Trailduster

Id find a running rusty 91-93 truck. Use the engine, trans, transfer case and maybe driveshafts ,then swap 80-93 knuckles and eliminate the full time garbage.

Thanks so much, I am going to look into that angle.

Just to clear some things up:

Your targets for donors are 1992 trucks/RCs with 318 or 1993 trucks/RCs with 5.2 r 5.9, The years prior (1988-1991 for 5.2, 1989-1992 for 5.9) were TBI and those harnesses are quite difficult to transition to work on a magnum engine. If you want to keep the fuel injection, the fuel tank really should be acquired for that application- it will make things easier for you. Even the cab harness is different on 3 major wire locations comparing 1991-1992 for example. People used to use 1992-1995 dakota harnesses for this swap alot back in the day, but not as easy as full size harness. Summary- you need the engine, cab and chassis harness

Transmission options if overdrive is required range from 1990-1995. Most 5.2 a518/46RHs were lockup but (1992s were for sure in light duty trucks) but 5.9s are hit or miss til 1993 on lock up. 1994 -1995 will be lockup.

OBD 2 started in 1996 and things get more complicated after that from a wiring standpoint.

Axles can be anything from a 4x4 from 81-93 and for rear axle, from a 2wd from 1985 up. Beware of the 9 1/4 HD. Used on light duty 3/4 ton trucks and everyone calls it a dana 60- people dont bother to look, nor do they care when selling them

Cam and a 4 barrel will make a 5.9 magnum act like a 5.7 hemi. Best years for 5.9 magnum are 1999-2003. The camshaft was changed to the 1998 Grand cherokee 5.9 limited cam. There is no best years for 5.2, thought the 1992-1993 5.2 exhaust manifolds had the 2 1/8 outlets and are thought to flow better

doing a 5.9 magnum should be cheaperthan 5.7. I cannot get a 5.7 in Maine for less than 1900, while I can get a 5.9 for 700 with less than 100k if patient. But the 5.7 needs a special aftermarket ECM harness if going that way that is at least 1000 extra, plus oil pan, motor mounts, oil filter adapter. 5.7 has much more potential but at what cost?

Wow, that is a lot of information, thanks so much for going to the trouble. I am leaning heavy to the 360, there seems to be a lot of them available around here.

This truck is just going to be a toy, without daily use, so I am hoping to avoid changing the trans/transfer case/axles/converter if possible.

My current wiring harness is a total mess, as is the gas tank, so it makes sense to change the harness/engine/gas tank to the 92 as you mention.
I hope I am understanding that right, forgive me if I am not. Please correct me if so, you mentioned that the 5.9 was hit or miss in that year. **edit** sorry, that was in reference to the trans, so if I keep the same one with the proper flex plate/converter, I should be ok?

I have never driven this truck, only trailered it home. Is the full time 4wd that bad?

Yes, hit or miss whether it was lock-up. Balance is uniqur to 5.9 magnum if I understand, so you need the flexplate/balancer for your year engine. To make it more complicated, sometime during the engine run from 1993-2003, they stopped putting weights on the flexplate and put them on the convertor (or vice versa, it gets confusing). Bottom line is get everything you can with your donor engine and know what year it is

thanks!

That is exactly the reason on all of my builds to date I have gone with an internally balanced engine and never a 360 as they are all externally balanced from Mother Mopar.

I just have to do this! The 360 makes so much sense.

Lots of people trash talk the NP203 case but other than weight it's not a bad unit. However it does only fit a couple transmission which in your case is not a problem.

What is more of a problem with the 70's full time trucks is the front wheel bearings. Trouble prone and a pain to work on. Swapping to 80-93 knuckles is the preferred method BUT, they are a different lug pattern so new wheels and rear shafts go along with the swap.

You don't have to change things just keep this in mind.

If you change the wheel bearings(if bad) in a full time axle and grease them per IOM they will last forever.Check the slack in the chain of the 203...strong TC except for chain play.

Full time "garbage"??

[quote=Mr onetwo]If you change the wheel bearings(if bad) in a full time axle and grease them per IOM they will last forever.Check the slack in the chain of the 203...strong TC except for chain play.

I have a '79 4x4 Roundup Powerwagon that we purchased new in Nov.'78, now has 110,xxx miles on it, no problems thus far, but, the bearings have been greased religiously. I pump grease in until the old grease starts oozing out the backside. The transfer case chain has some stretch, but not enough for a tear down for that only...

Each to their own. I've driven full time trucks for 17 years. Never had a wheel bearing problem. Never had a transfer case problem. A Ramcharger I had ran 37" tires too. Maybe I'm jinxing myself by saying that, but I do the maintenance, and they're fine.
I had a '92 for a short time. Would have the front end of my truck bang + bounce in the air when under load, in 4x4. The tiny little plastic tabs on the CAD fork were gone. Wouldn't engage all the way... That's garbage...
My project truck right now has a D60. It has drive flanges. No CAD or hubs for me!

Alot of folks did not know of that grease fitting that accessed through brake rotor with the wheel removed.

Thank you, I prefer to leave it in there as I doubt it has been abused to bad since this old truck only has a little 318-2 but I haven't gotten to that part yet.

I have read that about the chain and plan on learning about it, thnaks.
I think it will be just fine for me. I have a 2003 44wd Ram 1500 that gets used when I actually need a pickup.

Wow, that is a nice looking truck, that helps to motivate me. Yours is the fancy one right, thus the four headlights? When I got mine I thought someone had put a 72 grille on it but read that the low eline custom had the two headlight grille. Right?

That is good information, thanks.



I sure didn't and will be checking that out soon, thank you very much. This thing has been sitting for at least 6 years so everything was dry as a bone.
Right now I am consumed with replacing the botched floor pan job and replacing the bed with a better one. Lots and lots of sheet metal work.

If the bearing retainers have never been off, then the fitting will be at either 3 or 9 oclock. Mine were any way. The fitting is between 2 of the 6 bolts that retains the bearing to knuckle. If they have been off, then the fitting could be at the 4 other positions of the clock. Think "6" bolts even spaced.

I think it will be just fine for me. I have a 2003 44wd Ram 1500 that gets used when I actually need a pickup.



Not a fancy Truck...just an oddly optioned dealer stock Truck. Custom trim level, rubber mat, vinyl seat, etc. but has air, auto, protection pkg, HD front springs, 318, limited slip, quad headlights AM radio, and the 4x4 Round Up pkg. which I think is a decal and the White Spoke wheels with 10-15 Goodyear Tracker AT's.

And another was apparently ordered just like it by the dealership according to the Warren Truck Build Order...I am still looking for it, as indicated in my sig below.

Thanks for the kind words.

I have driven 75-79 full time 4wd Dodges forever, and never had a single wheel bearing issue. The bearing setup is like an early version of the wheel bearing that almost every vehicle has been using for 25 years. In fact, having the grease fitting makes them better than the 94 and
newer trucks in my opinion.
If one was to install a part time transfer case, and leave the full time front axle, you would have almost the equivelant of the 94 and newer trucks and maybe gain a bit of fuel mileage.

I haven't even taken a wheel off this truck yet, working on the cab and bed, but that is one big nut on the end of the front axle! I stuck an 1 1/2 socket up there and it wasn't even big enough.

I am going to go through the brakes all at once, but was curious about that big nut.

Trust me on this one...get a service manual and a parts book for this project. It will save you more money than it will cost. They show up on e-bay and else where and you can watch for the best deal while working on the body. Many of the parts sold on e-bay and elsewhere are still stocked by the original part #s. As stated earlier, I have owned and maintained my Truck since 1978...then in 2013 this gotta do it restoration Truck comes along and I find out quickly how much I don't know. I did not do the major work on it, but did source 90% or so of the parts. Here's a link to that completed Truck:

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbt...tml#Post2469227

Thanks, that is good advice.
I have enjoyed finding a few things in common so far with some of my previous a/b body projects. Loved it that window cranks are the same as the left over 68 Barracuda ones that I still had and the door hinge bushings were the same too.
I get it though, when I get into that drive train, other than the 318, it is going to be all new to me.
Guys like you and the other posters in this thread make this site invaluable.

Geez that red '79 is BEAUTIFUL!!!!!

Here is a link to a pdf copy of the Dana service book for you to peruse. http://www.billavista.com/tech/pdf_index...e%20Spindle.pdf Also a good video on YouTube showing the procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kOQPQfKAuHU

Yeah, all the hard core guys like to bash the NP203.
But if most of your use is on the street, I'd strongly recommend you keep it.
Most other T-cases are never recommended for pavement or hard surfaces.
The NP203 is more like a modern AWD system, exactly what you'd like on wet,snowy, or icy pavement. Most new trucks aren't available with AWD, you've got to buy a Durango to get it.

Thank you so much!
I have been making pretty good progress with it. Fenders, doors, hood and bed are off. Floor pans are roughed in waiting for a couple more parts.

That is very encouraging information, thanks! I am going to be sure to check out the chain when that time comes. Not far now from yanking the drive train.

Getting so much closer to the fun part of this hobby. Can someone tell me if these front leafs need to be re-arched, or are they supposed to sit like that?

Those look like stock/poss original springs, but the trucks I had sure had that bumper cushion under shock mount only about an inch from spring. Even when vehicle was new.

Excellent news, thank you!

I'm pretty sure mine have some arch, but not a lot. I'll look when I get home from work.

Very cool that you're bringing her back to life! Love this gen short bed especially!!

thanks Larry, I appreciate it.

Yeah, the SWB was the attraction all along. Picked up a better bed in a salvage a couple weeks ago but it still needs work.

I doubt this truck will be worth much but I just wanted to do it. Learning experience. This board has already been a lot of help as they have with several of my other Mopars in the past.

Did the first oil change today on the '79 Warlock II Powerwagon since the resto. and checked the spring to bump stop distance. First, I should back up and clarify what was done to this Truck. The springs were removed and checked and we were told the only thing needed was to disassemble and put in new bushings, pads, and clamps. The distance is now 1 7/16" (the width of the yardstick I was using). Keep in mind that these bumpstops are new and have not been utilized (mashed) in the first 600ish miles.

the front don't have much of an arch, how far is it from the bump stock? 1-1.5 inch is where the stock W100/150 were up till 81-82ish 1.5-2 inch till 89, 90-93 about 2.5

Perfect, thanks so much. I will measure today!

I am SO sorry I forgot all about looking at my front leaf springs on my '79 W150.

I looked today and they are definitely flat like yours, or even a bit of a negative arch. Of course, mine has engine installed so that may be why.

Thanks so much, that is exactly how mine look and the engine is still in as well. No apologies needed, heck with spring hitting (no pun in tended) I have been really busy with other stuff.
It is about time to pull the cab off now and get busy again.

Thanks for everyone's help on this project!

I agree with keeping fulltime 4wd. I have had several of these trucks on the farm (and still have my Dad's original, bought brand new, 1976 Power Wagon W100 318 truck, fulltime 4wd, all stock). Many, many of these on the farm and my Dad wouldn't use any other type of truck or t-case (all had to have the NP203). I have the Electronic "Shift on Demand" t-case in my 2011 Ram, and it's ok, but on wet pavement, snow, ice, the Power Wagon is much better (excellent traction on all surfaces, all the time).

Good luck!

JS

Thanks AdventurerSport, very cool story.

My Dad actually had one as well, a 75 D200 Power Wagon with a 440 and 4 speed. I rebuilt the 440 in it for him about 30 years ago but never really paid a lot of attention to the truck. It was sure stout!

My daily truck now is a black 2003 1500 single cab,swb, 4wd, 5 speed 4.7 and I love it. Have no idea what transfer case it is though.

On this 79 I have pretty much gone full circle and decided to put it back stock, 318 etc with the input from this board. The wiring harness is going to be a challenge and may just go with a different ignition set up.

I wish I lived closer. Would love to be able to invite myself by to see the progress and even help if I could with an extra set of hands! Great to see it being saved. I bet that was a cool truck your Dad had.

That is very nice of you Larry, thanks!

I think I will get my rear in gear and take the cab off today. It is a beautiful day and so tempting to goof off instead.

I would be perfectly fine if the mods want to move this thread to the members projects area, as it has turned into that.


got the cab off today, and spent about 5 hours power washing the frame and drive train.

One of the biggest goals in any build I have ever done has been to get to the point you are no longer working with dirty parts and crap. I am finally to that point almost.

The fun is about to begin.

Alright! Major progress, and like you wrote, the fun begins. Now you can really get to things and start making satisfying improvements.

I have been logging my hours daily as I work on this truck, went over a 100 this week.

I spent 24 of them fixing the frame where it had rusted through around the drivers side front spring mount.

Had to take out 8 of those factory rivets and after replacing the metal, went back with 1/2 grade 8 bolts. It should be as strong as it was when it was new.

Excellent. Love hearing about the progress.

Coming along nicely! If it does get moved to the project section I'll be following. Lots of useful info in this thread.

Thanks, it has gotten hot here in Missouri so I haven't been working on it much since the big shop is not cooled. I open the 16 ft doors on each end and turn on the fan it is still hot!

I have the frame repair done and replacing the brake lines and complete brake job is next. I am saving pulling the engine and rebuilding it as that is my favorite part, kind of like desert.

Have had some fun sticking the original 18s from my Challenger on the truck, I like the look.

I have been spending more time in the A/c woodworking shop. Hopefully we will get a cool down soon or there may not be much progress until fall.

Those wheels look real good. All great projects take some time. You'll get it

Thanks, I appreciate that and have figured out I am just not happy unless I have a Mopar under construction.

I am not a fan of the lifted / monster tire look even though some of the pictures provided of these trucks are beautiful.

My neighbor wanted me to paint it satin black with the big wheels and tires all jacked up and he said he would buy it.

But at my age, I am not sure how many more of these projects I can do so I am going to make it the way I want and give it to one of my grandsons.

It was originally a blue truck with blue interior so I am thinking B5 or B7 which is pretty close to it's original color, and taking the lift blocks out.

It has about 5 inch lift blocks in the back, but sat pretty level. I wonder if those are original? I don't see any simple way of dropping the front end and I don't want it sitting low in the back and high in the front.

Stock rear lift blocks are 3 1/2".

Thank you

Well I had to take 90 days off due to the heat, but the cool down has been awesome. Put 29 hours in on it since Sunday. What a blast. Going back with new/clean parts is the fun part of this for me. Pretty much done with the dirtiest parts.

Right now I am putting on a complete new brake system, everything. Pretty sure I have found what made the owner finally park it. UJoint in front drive shaft was about ready to explode and had to be noisy as heck. Left rear brake had parts cutting a huge grove in the drum, also had to be noisy.

Great news that you had some time to work on it! Frame is looking great!

Thank you Larry. about done with brakes, now. All lines, cables etc are one, fun times. Emergency brake has been a blast. it was all junk.

Well it has been a while, had some health issue delays but the body is back on the frame and I finally fired my 318 yesterday after almost a year of having rebuilt it. It is bone stock and idles sweet.

I put a GM Hei distributor and have ordered a GM one wire alternator for this 79 power wagon as the previous owners have done some serious cobbling with the wiring. Per the advise in this thread I did buy the manuals for the truck off of ebay and they have been a big help.

Has anyone got a link to a schematic modified for those two changes or do I just need to figure it out?


Thanks again for all of the help so far, it is coming along nicely.

Cab is back on after welding in new floor boards, cab corners and replacing drivers door with a better one.

The ignition wire that would normally go to the + side of the coil on your Dodge now needs to go to the + terminal on your GM electronic ignition. If you have a tach, there should be a connection place on the GM dist to connect your tach lead that normally would have connected to the + coil wire on the Dodge stuff.

Can't help you on that GM 1 wire alt. They call it a 1 wire, but most I've seen have 2 wires, so I'm confused. LOL! Gene

Looks good so far.

Poorboy is close on the distributor. The HEI system needs full voltage not the lower coil voltage of the Mopar system. Take the power from the keyed side of the ballast resistor.

As for the alternator, iirc the second small wire is for a warning light. Not needed for the alternator to function. But you do have to bring the rpms up to activate the internal regulator. Honestly id keep the stock charging system because of the tricks you can do in case of roadside failure of the regulator or wiring.

There was a recent thread on water leaks into cabs, and welding seems around firewall to sure up rigidity and stop leaks. Good time to really tighten up your truck and keep it sealed up nicely.

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthread...85-d150-water-leak-body.html#Post2747191

Thank you very much, yeah I understand that. Just wanted to see if anyone has actually modified a schematic to include both mods.

There will be a lot of crap and wires eliminated. I just may do it, as I was taught to use and read schematics.

Thanks, it runs great and starts up instantly now after spending a little time on the tune today. i have a new question though. I put it up in the air running and put it in gear.

Oddly, the front wheels turn and were running but the back ones were not. I messed around a little bit with the four wheel drive lever but it will only start in the one position that it is in.

Anyone have any ideas? thanks in advance. Edit, I got my answer. the transfer case is acting like an open diff and the new back brakes a very tight.

Thank you, I ended up spending a couple days on the wiring with the manual. It is all working perfectly now, lights etc. I found out leaving the vacuum advance disconnected is the best way to go so far on the HEI. I had already decided to go with the one wire gm alternator and it is charging well by just using the 10 ga wire that was the feed from the dual field alternator. I had to switch locations with the connection on the bulkhead connector as like many mopars, the heat generated through that wire melts away the retention on the connector so you get a bad connection which creates more heat.

I have eliminated a milk crate full of old wiring and parts.

Making progress! Yeah, the 203 case actually has spider gears that let front and rear work like right and left wheels on a rear diff.