Scored a 12-valve... UPDATE!

Usually these deals pop up and they're in another state or something. Yesterday I got an e-mail craigslist alert and it turned out the truck was only 18 miles away.

D250, Cummins, 5-speed, power windows and locks, cruise, cold A/C and EVERYTHING works! Brand new tires. I went there and drove it, drives great! It's got some bumps and bruises, but I found zero rust on it.

$4,000 is a really good price, so I was kind of joking with the guy when I stepped out of the truck from the test drive, and I said "If you'll take $3,000 for it, we'll just drive 3 blocks down to the bank and get the cash."

To my surprise he said: "Okay"!

It's a fixer-upper, but I FINALLY got a Cummins 5-speed!

Sweet, that is a good buy! I paid considerably more for mine, but it has a gear vendors overdrive...

...... AND it has twice as many doors!

That is sweet deal, congrats!

You didn't say what year is is though. The early 91's aren't intercooled and the 91.5's are kind of a red headed step child.

It’s a ‘92. 😁

Perfect.

Jealous.

I do have a couple of rougher 92's...

And a rolled one for good measure...

That’s quite a collection, Rhino - now I know who to call for parts! 😂

Just don't call him looking for a non blown up transmission for a Cummins.

Will the 1992 Cummins bolt into the frame of a 2500 1994-1995?

Can the Getrag be used in a 1994-1995 ?

Is the overall width and spring mounts of a 1992 axle that has the Dana 61 with 3.06 ratio transplantable into the rear of a 2500 1994-1995?

I had a 92 beater I paid $900 for several years ago. It was ugly, very ugly, had 350K on the odometer that didn't work most of the time. I don't know what it was about that truck but it was fun to drive. I kept it a few years then sold it just because I really didn't have the room, I wish I would have kept it.

I think the 12 valve engines will bolt to 94-98 chassis, I doubt anything else will after taking apart several of both generation trucks.

The engine will fit. The Getrag assembly is about 1.125 inches shorter to the cross member and the starter is different and is clocked to the adapter differently. There may be issues with frame clearance. The rear is also shorter but I don't remember by how much, .75 inch on each side if my memory serves me. The wheel studs are different size also. I know newer D80,s and AAM rears have been swapped into 1st gens so it could be done the other way too but not a bolt in. The biggest hurdle would be the starter to frame interference and the length of the Trans to crossmember.

However having said that you could use the adapter, starter and trans from the 2nd gen on the VE pumped engine.

Since every panel but the cab and hood are damaged on the '92 D250, I've been keeping an eye out for body parts.

Well.... as luck would have it, I was making a delivery last week and found this dead D150 in a guy's yard with 2015 plates on it.

The closer I looked at it, the more I realized that;aside from a dent on the hood ( I don't need that) and a small dent near the marker light on the driver's fender; it was absolutely straight and completely rust free, even the bottoms of the doors! So I inquired about it, and the guy told me to make an offer...

I bought the truck for $500!

Next step is to get it home and start transplanting the bed, doors and fenders to the gold truck. Messing with these old trucks is a BLAST!

for the first gen to a second gen frame----you need the second gen motor mounts-----everything else works with small adjustments-----over fill the getrag by one quart----the factory fill hole allows the main bearings to go dry-----do not ever speed shift the getrag because the shift rails are delicate---when you slam the gears one will break then you will be in 2 gears locked up and not knowing what might have happened----the tranny mount will be a little off--the driveshaft will have to be made---the floorboard shifter hole will shift forward---may have to bend the shifter to keep it out of the dash......

Another nice score. You are on a roll.

I sent you a pm.

The fenders are different around the headlight bucket area so if you want to keep the grille on the 92 you will have to do some surgery.

I know the core supports changed to accommodate different headlight locations, intercoolers, etc., but I thought the fenders were all the same?

LMC truck has the same L/R part numbers for 1981-93...

fenders are the same...I have an '85 and an '88 fender on my '91. The '91 grill will bolt right in place. My grill was busted, so I put a grill from my '88 on with some tweaks.
great score on both trucks.

That's not what the guy told me that sold me the crew cab dually above. It must be the core support then, I know they are different for a Cummins...

yes...the diesels have a different core support, but the rest of the sheet metal is the same.

Core supports on the 1989 to mid-1991 Cummins non-intercooled trucks are the same as gassers, the 91-1/2 and later intercooled trucks are different.

Core supports '81-'85 are the same, from '86-'93 the headlights are in a slightly different location.

That makes sense because my dually is an 85.

Love these things. My son acquired a '93 W250 extended cab last summer for $3500


During tear-down


Coming along...

That was a smokin' hot deal for a 4X4, and it looks great! in my opinion they look so much better without all that rubber trim!

that is beautiful, love the wheels and tires.

Got the parts truck home last weekend, I've got both beds unbolted, unwired, and ready to swap today...

A cherry picker seemed to work really well to pick up the bed, but it could use a slightly longer arm insert to increase the reach. Another 6-8 inches would've made the job go a lot faster...



I was happy with how easy it was to move, it actually rolled around much easier than when loaded with an engine.



People who buy welders should be subjected to an I.Q. test!

This was a previous owner's attempt to fabricate a ball hitch mount in the bed....



That mess took about 2 hours to remove without damaging the frame, brake lines, wiring, fuel tank, etc. - but I was able to remove everything except some leftover steel plate welded along the length of one of the crossmembers.



When you use a 1/2 ton bed on a 3/4 or 1-ton you need to remove these little spacers for clearance, there are 2 on each side. The heavier trucks have a slightly taller frame in these areas. A Sawzall made pretty quick work of them...




Bed swap is complete! Next come the doors and fenders!

might as well do the cab and have a nice black truck!

I'm considering doing that to match it up until it is all white, eventually.

Looking good.

Doors done....

Comin' together!

Stripped the power windows/locks stuff from my old doors today, removed the last of the body parts from the parts truck, and loaded it up to haul it off to a guy who will part out the rest of it in exchange for a good left fender, a DODGE RAM stamped tailgate, and some other goodies.

Gotta love Southern Living where you can peel a 34 year-old fender from a vehicle and find it is completely rust-free.

very nice!

That thing will be purty in no time.

So I traded the leftovers for some other parts I needed - a nice gauge bezel, a DODGE RAM stamped tailgate and a left fender.

When I saw the fender I asked where it came from, and it turns out it came from a truck that had belonged to an old guy I not only had known- but I bought a '66 Fury from him over 10 years ago! I was able to find a pic of the truck sitting at his house on Google Earth. It was also at this spot where I first met fellow Moparts member "mattsmopars", when he brought a friend there to look at possibly buying the engine from the 66 before I parted it out.

Small world...

It'll be kind of neat to use a piece of his truck in his memory.

It's earning it's keep, saved me a $400 tow bill on one of my work trucks yesterday!