78 Utiline Build

Been working on my 78 Utiline recently. Just want to get or running and driving so I can enjoy it. I've had it for about a year now. Got it for a song and they even trailered it to my house (1 hr drive one way!). Has a 225 w/ a 3 on the tree. Eventually I will build a 505 for it (78 440 is sitting in the corner of my garage waiting) that is about 600hp/600ftlb on pump gas (or I may consider E85) and an auto.

Found some old slots and lowered it this past weekend. I'm digging the stance! Here are some pics.

Engine seemed to have a miss. Checked compression and #3 was at about 30psi while the rest were 120. Pulled the head, looked fine, no burnt valves and gasket was good. The top thrust side of a few of the pistons were eroded a little on the edge (maybe had water in them at some point?). Pulled the pistons and all of the top rings were broken in half! #3 was in about 6 pieces and the second ring was busted. Ordered replacement pistons, rings and rod bearings and did a frame in "rebuild" just so I can drive it for a while. Back together and running better but one of the rocker adjusters was loose. I need to tighten it up before I start driving it regularly. May try a jam nut or peening the outside to tighten it back up. It does have a Super Six intake that someone installed at some point.

Here is the future engine holding the floor down right now.

Nice truck, looks great lowered. Getting close to setting my 505 in.

good lookin old truck

Sweet!

Sweet!
I'll eventually find another '72-'80 truck (in decent shape, I hope) when I have the time to work on it and room for it. A Utiline would be nice.
Here's an old pic of my '78 PW I bought new-

Nice! I've got an old 73 PW rock crawler I finished last year.

Nice job.



Tim

Couldn't wait. After working on my buddies 454 for last few weeks, I NEED to drop the 440 into the 78 Utiline! That slant 6 ain't cutting it for torque. Scored 3 items recently to get me there: Dana 60 FF that I'll cut down and convert to a SF, low miles 727 Trans with the torque converter, and an auto column.

Debating on going straight to ladder bars when I do the 60. I really would like to keep them on the outside of the frame and use the front spring mount for the bars. I'll have to build my own but any thoughts on this? The reason for wanting to do it this way is so I can keep my stock fuel tank.

Maybe I should just keep it simple and tune some leaf springs and Caltracs.

The leaf springs and Caltracs will work fine and save time AND money, cool build!

Thanks. That does seem to be the more sensible option.

Great looking truck! I'm glad to see more people building trucks.

I went with a '69 mustang gas tank - check out posts #1220272 and #1220292 on this link: https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbt...tml#Post1220262



I'm using stock leafs on mine. Leaf technology has come a long way over the years. People are going 1.10 60ft on them so a set of Caltracs or Assassins should do the trick.

Did you remove some leaves? I seem to recall mine having more.

Nice project keep the updates coming

Any other pics of your roll bar? Looks pretty tidy.

No. I actually added an extra main leaf.

Made some rooms for the BB. Sold the engine and Trans.



440 is on the stand ready to be cleaned up and regasketed.

Here is one for you.

Anyone have a rear sump big block oil pan set up they want to donate or sell?

Nice! Kit or custom?

Kit was from Jegs, cut to fit youself, hoop was very tight to get in.

Anyone successfully use A Body big block Fenderwell headers on their 2wd truck? I'm reading it should work, but no pics.

Not doing fender well headers after all. They make it tough to use a balance pipe.

The biggest truck header I can find is 1-3/4" primaries. Anyone know if there are affordable 1-7/8" that will fit? Some say the B&E headers will fit.

440 looked good so it is going back together with a set of stock closed chamber heads... For now.

Avoid the ladders for street use. I know its not your rock crawler but ladders do not allow for any articulation. Save those for big tire drag strip use only.

Love the build. Big block in a 78. ☺

Yeah, I'm leaning towards bagging the thing. Never had a street vehicle with bags and I understand they ride really well.

Engine is almost ready to go in.

It's in

Nice, looks good in there! I like the dual master cylinder set up too!

The dual master cylinder is a very rare option on these trucks.



Tim

Yeah, only the SCCA trucks had them

Well, it runs. Had to rebuild the carb.

Scrapped the header idea for now. Found a set of manifolds.

Couldn't find the correct shift and kick down linkages, so I got some from other vehicles and made it work.

Next will be to narrow the Dana 60. Then I can have the driveshaft shortened and then fill the trans with fluid.

Good to see.

Got me hyped about working on my '76.

Got the difficult part of the exhaust done tonight. Next the pipe to the muffler. 2 x 2.25" to 3".

Replaced the ammeter with a volt meter.

Exhaust is done. Put in a wideband O2 sensor for easier tuning.



Cleaned up the 60.

60 housing is cut down to length. Just need to burn it in.

Question: What size U-Joints are you guys running on your big blocks? 7290 or 7260? My drive shaft has a wallowed out end and I need a new one anyway. I can just replace it with another 7260 or I could upgrade to the larger 7290. Of course I'd need new yokes to match which doubles the cost.

I like your voltmeter gauge retrofit. What gauge did you use for your modification?

It's a SunPro. There is a write up on the interwebs. Some modification is involved.

I actually have a 1350 yoke for the 60 on the shelf from my rock crawler before I went to the 1410s. Maybe I'll just go that route. Would save me some of the cost of upgrading.

Talked myself into going the 1350 route. Good discussion with myself too! New slip yoke ordered.

Sometimes that's the best conversation!

Yeah, but people tend to look at me funny when I do.

I also find that it makes 'em leave me alone!

That is true. Win/win!

It's too late but next time your motor is out it would be a good idea to box the front frame. Mine is boxed and I also have a piece of 1 1/2" round tubing running across at the steering box to tie-in both sides.

I plan on doing the whole chassis (boxed and cross members) at a later date when I redo the whole truck. I just want to drive it now.

When you weld the ends on your Dana 60, do you need to gut the thing or can you weld with the gears in?

NO, but I did bolt a A-body 8 3/4 on top of the leafs with a rear shackle flip to tuck 12" rims with 29x15x15 M/Ts in the fenders of both my trucks.

the flip flop works well with the stock leafs only but set you up for a nice set of cal-tracs = they already build them for the trucks for axle over spring.

both my trucks have the flip flop with a-body 8 3/4. but I am swaping a E-body in the stepside now to tuck 10" rims in there with a mud tire. going fishing LOL!

a-body share same 43" perch centers and is a bolt in.

I even run the a-body SSM lift bars (looks old skool traction bar)

both run a stock front end with sway bar. just flip flop the rear and tub the bed.

Member Clutch runs flip flop with cal-tracs, hand built outside the frame BB headers. here he is in acton.

I would say this works good for stock leafs.

What backspace on your 15x12 wheels Scratchnfotraction??

Technically, you could. I'd put something in the tube to keep the weld crap out of the center section. I've got a fixing jig that requires the diff be removed at least. I went ahead and stripped it down (no crush sleeve ). The inside was filthy from the LS diff, so I needed to clean it anyway.

I'll just tack the ends with the jig in then remove it for the final welding. I really want to weld the new spring perches on first just in case there is some warping. But before all of that, I need to get the lowering shackles and new Ubolts. Going to go back to spring over. It was too low with them under.

I like this better. And look what I found in my scrap pile. Leftovers from when I built the rockcrawler. Should have what I need!

4.5 backspace.

1/2" at tire bulge and leaf spring on a body housing/large brakes

the e-body housing going in the 85 stepside will get a 10x15 with 4" backspace 275/60/15

Dana 60 is done. Narrowed about 5" more than the stock 8-1/4. Should be about B-Body width. 3:55 gears with a clutch LS diff. Wheels are 8-1/2" wide with 3.5" BS. Should be just about perfect when I go to 10" wide wheels with the same tires. I moved the axle back 1" to center it better in the wheel well.

Still need to run the brake lines and lift the bed so I can drill the last holes for shackle flip.

68dodge, how did you get the front that low without riding on the bump stops all the time?

Running. Waiting on the driveshaft. Need to figure out why the alternator isn't charging.

https://youtu.be/sXbtCUwc5LA

Well, the alternator wasn't charging because the voltage regulator was bad. Had an original on hand that fixed it.

Struggling to get those old stamped steel valve covers to seal. Any recommendations?? Done them twice now and no luck. Tried the regular cork and the thick high temp both with Ultra Gray sealer. They aren't slipping out.

Mopwer. Bump stops are removed. Truck now has tubular upper control arms. Truck also has spindle that are machined to fit. Setting the suspension up for street and drag racing. I should say more drag set up.

The old 70s big block steel valve covers with exhaust manifolds were a pita to seal. If you got the gasket to seal on the tin, the heat from the exhaust manifolds would cook the bottom edge of the gaskets. Often the area around the bolt holes would be pulled down towards the head, and the covers would leak between the bolts. Usually, every time you replaced the gaskets, you needed to flip the covers upside down, and set the area around the bolt holes on a flat surface, and tap the covers flat with a hammer. You need to flatten all 6 holes, but usually the two bottom corners were the worst. You want to look the covers over well, after several beatings (er, I mean flattenings), they tend to crack around the cover base where it flattens out for the gasket. Those cracks will drive you nuts thinking the gaskets are leaking, when its actually the cracks in the covers themselves. If you have installed a couple sets of gaskets, you need to flatten the area around the cover bolts, and you really need to look for cracks.

With the manifolds, there is a lot of heat retained across the bottom of the covers. If you do not use the high temp gaskets, you will be replacing the gaskets at least every year. If you can add manifold gaskets, or space the manifold away from the head, even 1/8", it will extend the valve cover gasket life a bunch. At any rate, you need to be sure nothing is building up between the manifold and the cover, if air isn't passing between them, the gaskets don't stand a chance. Gene

No cracks and the gaskets on it right now are the high temp. I also try to straighten the flange all the way around before putting it all back together. I ordered another set that has the steel insert. I guess I'll find out where they are leaking when I pull them off. I have heard of some folks using a contact adhesive to stick the gasket to the valve cover before installing them. That way it won't move when snugging them down.

I have some sheet metal that I will be fabricating some heat shields for the manifolds.

The 15x 10s are on.

Rear axle brake lines done.

Getting there.

The truck looks good and I love the wheels! Not sure if it's the 4x4 guy in me, but the tires seem a little small in the back? Maybe the fenders look so big! Good job on the D60. It looks perfect under the truck. Great job.

If the new rear tires are still as close to the inside box floor as the earlier picture shows, your going to have some serious tire rub. To assume a leaf spring axle doesn't move side to side a bit is a bad assumption. There needs to be at least 3/4" between the widest point on the side of the tire, and any body structure. At 3/4". some rub may occur, but less then 3/4" damage can happen. Years ago I had a couple sidewall damaged tires and a tore up inner fender to prove my point. Gene

Thanks. The rear tires are the 275s I had on the 8.5" wheels. After I melt those, I'll put on 295s

They had about 3/4" before. Now there is over 1.25" clearance. The extra width pulled the tire bulge away from the inner wheel well. I narrowed the rear width specifically for these wheel specs.

Lookin' good.
Only problem is you're making me want another one.



Tim

These should seal that pig up. Plus they are chrome so they are good for at least 25 HP!

I built some heat shields for the log manifolds.

Driveshaft showed up today. Installed that and started it up. Warmed it up but it wasn't idling very well. Then it started missing. Checked all the plug wires with the timing light. All good. Pulled the plugs and they all looked ok. Checked the compression and they were all 125-135psi EXCEPT for #1. 0 psi. Nothing... Pulled the drivers side valve cover and turned the engine over by hand. Rockers were opening and closing the valves. Used my borescope to check the combustion chamber and the piston. All looked ok from what I could tell and the piston was going up and down.

I just called it for tonight. Next will be a leak-down test to see where the compression is going. After thinking about it, it is probably excessive lifter preload. They did have .060-.080" but they were no where near bottoming out. I read that some folks just bolt them up without issues. I guess that they were just lucky.

So I either need custom pushrods or a set of adjustable rockers with the cup style pushrods. The pushrods would be less expensive, but I could go to 1.6 ratio rockers with the adjustable type if I have enough clearance.

Nope. Couldn't be that easy. There is some other reason the exhaust valve isn't sealing. Brought the piston up to TDC on the compression stroke and put air pressure in the cyl. It was coming out the tailpipe. Going to pull the exhaust manifold and see what I can see. Heads were built with new valves and components.

Pulled the exhaust manifold off and the rocker assembly. Put air pressure in the cylinder and it's definitely coming out the exhaust valve. I can see that it is open using my bore scope. The guide is either too tight or the valve is bent somehow. Either way, the heads have to come off.

Sorry to hear. That sucks when you have to do things twice. I would think a tight guide, as everything looked OK when you looked with your borescope. I guess you'll see soon enough...

Love your truck...

Tearing the top end down again. Looks like the valve is straight just stuck in the guide.

Thanks, man. Wish I could drive the damn thing...

You'll get there.
A lot quicker than I will.

At least your piston didn't try to close your open valve for you!

Took the heads back to the shop and they took the offending valve out. It wasn't a tight guide. Somehow something melted to the valve shank when it was open and it jammed into the guide. You could drop the valve in the guide upside down and it was free until it hit the bad spot on the valve. No idea what it was.

He offered to get another valve and install it but I just had him file down the spot since it was only about 1/4" from the end of the guide when closed, polish it, resurface the valve, ream the guide and reinstall.

Since I was in the neighborhood, I dropped them off at my machinist to machine the valve cover sealing surface. It was pretty rough and I can't get them to seal. Should fix that problem. Should be done next week.

Got the heads back yesterday. He machined the cast sealing area for the valve covers. It was pretty porous and uneven. This should fix the leaking problem. Just need to blow them apart and clean them really well.

I was taking the heads apart to clean them and found 2 more tight exhaust valves with the same galling. I talked to my engine builder buddy and he thinks that the cheap valves I bought for it weren't hardened properly. So, now I'm looking for a set of SS valves. He also talked me into porting the bowls while they are apart. They will be getting 2.08 intakes but the bigger 1.74 exhaust valves.

While I'm waiting for the new valves, I decided to do some pocket porting on the exhaust. Opening the bowls should help quite a bit. Was able to conservatively open them up 0.100". Also the exhaust manifold ports were way off on the outer cylinders so I fixed that too.

New valves arrived. Unfortunately when I tried lapping the exhaust valves they didn't seat correctly. The China valves I bought befor this had a wide seat margin where these are about half. Turns out the head shop didn't cut new seats for the larger exhaust valves. Looks like they are going to need to be machined so the new ones fit. I'll take them to another shop that is closer.

When the shop rebuilt the heads they put .029" spacers under all of the springs. When I measure the installed spring height (without the spacer), I'm getting 1.86" with calipers. From what I've read, this is the bottom of spec.

I put a dial indicator on the cam to check lift and got .288". With the rocker ratio being 1.5:1, that should give me .432" max lift.

I put one of my springs in a vice and compressed it until it was almost bound up. That measurement was 1.325".

If you take the installed spring height 1.86" and subtract the max lift .432" that gives you a compressed spring height of 1.428". If you subtract the spacer they had in there you get a new compressed spring height of 1.399". Is that enough extra room to keep from messing something up? It's only about .074"? Do I need to have a spacer on the spring seat at all?

Man, you are really having some bad luck with those heads. I think. 060" is minimum coil bind clearance. So without your shims you'll be OK, but with them in you'll be too tight. Keep in mind... your 1.5 ratio might not be a true 1.5.

Damn if it isn't one thing it is another. As 440 Offroader pointed out, if you are using stock rocker arms it is unlikely you have a true 1.5 ratio. That still does not excuse the slop work that has been done. I learned the hard way on a set of small block "x" heads that you have to be very careful with choosing a machine shop. Problem that most of us will learn the hard way unfortunately because we don't build engines every day.

Since the exhaust seats needed to be cut to the larger size I went ahead and opened the pockets up to the larger size. About 1.5 more hours of work should pay off! Also touched up the intake pocket to smooth out the transition of the inside seat cut.

Fired right up!
https://youtu.be/Z1DJrGoju5w

Engine is back together. Bench bled the master cyl and installed it. Tried to bleed the brakes but the rear line is clogged somewhere. Pulled the bed off so I can finish drilling the the rear shackle mounts and fix the fuel sending unit wire (chewed by rodents). The inside frame rail was packed with dirt so I dropped the tank to clean it out and fix the wire and brake line.

These trucks look awesome with a Dana under them.
just picked up a SRT 10 Dana, for my 03 Project.
Have a Dana under the 75 D100 and the Lil Red 440 swap .

Clog was the brake cylinders. Replaced those. Also rerouted the brakeline to the rear. Someone replaced it at some point and ran it outside the rail. Dirt packed in between the frame rail and the tank corroded the original. Cleaned all of that out as well as the gas tank.

Fixed the fuel sending unit wire and the gauge still isn't working. I'll have to track that down. Could be the gauge. Sending unit was working.

Drove it on the street yesterday. It's idling a little high and cuts out at higher RPM. Not sure the secondaries are opening. I'll check that today. Also looks like it's running lean at cruising speed. May have to adjust the metering rod tree or change the jets/metering rods.

Got a jet kit and increased the primary jets 6 sizes and it's running a lot better but still cutting out when the rpms get up around maybe 4000 or so. No tach, only guessing. Not sure what is causing it. Tried adjusting the timing and no change. Swapped to a small Edelbrock carb, no change.

Any ideas? Thinking maybe a sloppy timing set or plugs. I reused the double roller timing set. Didn't think it was very loose but I don't know. Plugs are auto lite 85 gapped to stock spec.

Possibility of valve float?
Fuel delivery?

Swapped carbs with no change. I would think that valve float would just cause it to nose over not miss.

Running out of fuel(causing leaning out also possible cause of miss fire),week pump,in tank pickup restricted,fuel flow to the carb?Fuel pressure gauge to verify?
Coil heating up,pickup coil,but would also heat up over time.

That's what I thought which is why I tried another carb. I also have a wide band O2 sensor that still shows rich (12:1).

I'm using an aftermarket coil (Acel Super Stock). I do still have the original that I can try. Anyway to test the dizzy? It still has the electronic ignition that was on the original /6 if that makes any difference.

Try setting your timing at 12-14 degrees with no vacuum advance. Run it with no vacuum advance and see how it acts.

So... I suspected the ignition system. Found a billet ready to run ProComp distributor (I can hear the grumbles now) on Craigslist for cheap. Removed the Mopar electronic ignition, distributor, coil and wiring. Reconfigured it for the ready to run with their recommended coil and it will actually run out the back door now! It still doesn't have the power it should.

I did some horse trading for a Mopar M1 single plane and it runs harder in the upper rpms than it did with the cast intake. I also found a Weiand tunnel ram with 2 Edelbrock 1407 carbs for a good price. I'm rebuilding the carbs now. I know. Both bad matches for the engine. I do have a plan.

The cam sounds like it has some lifters that won't stay pumped up. When you start it cold, it sounds like it is missing. Rev it a little end it goes away and doesn't come back. I now have a Hughes Performance Whiplash cam, lifters and valve springs ready to replace the stock set. This cam is made for low compression engines and it is installed advanced to build dynamic cyl compression. Sounds great at idle too!

Once I get my buddies FJ60 out of the garage (installed efi on it), I'll get started on the cam swap. Near future plan will be FItech dual fuel bodies (good for 1200hp naturally aspirated) on the tunnel ram also controlling the timing. The $ I make from the FJ work will almost get me the EFI for my truck. I wish it would fit under the stock hood, but not with air cleaners installed. I'll try it with the hood off for a while then I'm probably going to a lift off fiberglass hood with a 6 pack scoop or I'll just cut a hole in the hood.

I'm also going to be parting out my rock crawler and using some parts for this truck including the efi fuel tank from a 98 Grand Cherokee. It will go behind the rear axle like I used to have it in the Powerwagon before it was converted.

I wasn't using the vac advance and had the heavy advance spring removed.