Lowering kit showed up any tips

Installing the 2wd Mcgaughys lowering in my 4x4 2005 rumble bee. The kit says it's only for 2wds but many have used it on 4x4s as we'll with little to no issues. The rear consist of sitting the rearend on the leafs and the front actually comes with new spindles. The spindles on the front is the only place where some have issues. Some times grinding is need for clearance. Most of the time with the 05 nothing is needed.

How much are you going to lower it? I'd really like to do this to my 07 2WD but I'm afraid it'd make it useless to pull a loaded trailer...

In my opinion a truck is useless as a truck once lowered. I have bought a few and hated it and either sold them or put them back to stock. My 99 RT dak is next on the list to go back stock, it has shorter coils on the front and beltech spring mounts on the rear.

I don't understand how lowering, affects the ability to tow. If you don't remove any of the rear spring it's just physically lower. Same capacity.

The rumble bee has factory ground effects on it and the trucks looks much better sitting like a 2 wd then a 4 wd. This kit is 4.5 in back and 2.5 front. It won't look slammed by any means and will still maintain the same ride. No different the the ground clearance of a durango or jeep Cherokee with 4 wheel drive or all wheel drive. This daytona has the same kit as mine will have.

When you lower it you move the axle closer to the bump stops that means less weight is needed to bottom them out so you should not tow/haul as much period.

I've towed all over the country with lowered trucks, so I call bs. Just my
sorry to the op for going off topic

The kit also provided lower bump stops as we'll. my dakota rt was done on the cheap prior to me buying it and I can see what your talking about. But with a quality kit and the correct parts as in shocks, spindles verses lowered springs and shorter bumps tops I'm thinking it will be fine.

All of the above is why I asked "how much" you were going to lower it. At a certain point you have to think about C-notches and what not. I certainly wasn't trying start a pissing match. Sorry if I derailed your thread.

If you're still using the same spring rate, towing shouldn't be affected. Unless you plan on exceeding the tow limits. A properly landed trailer, at or below the max rating of the truck, shouldn't come anywhere near bottoming out the suspension. Now, if you want to exceed the limits set by the manufacturer, then yes, you will bottom out on a lowered truck.

Yes the lawyers will tell you to never do that, but the factory ratings are always on the conservative side. Put 1000 lbs or 1/2 ton of cargo in the bed of a half ton truck, and you'll notice that the suspension isn't that compressed. I've hauled 1400 lbs of stone in the bed of a v6 Dakota before and wasn't bottomed out--but I only drove 5 miles like that, and it was through town at speeds of 35 mph or less.

I've seen lowered trucks using an auxiliary airbag system to help lift the back end up when towing heavy.

I just hauled & towed over 1200 miles & have done the same with lowered trucks for 20+ years
It's all in how you load your trailer

most people who exceed the factory load capacity of trucks ALWAYS overlook the brakes....If you're going to tow, make sure and upgrade the binders