NEW 1992 D150 dies when put into gear. HELP.

Yes the brake switch will turn off lockup after it has locked up while cruising. It will not cause the converter to lockup when put in gear. 1st or reverse gear lockup is not possible unless there is something mechanically wrong with the transmission. And yes they did still make 3 speeds in 92.

Update: I am trying to do the simple stuff first.

Brake switch replaced: No change. ABS and E brake light still on.

Disconnected the throttle position sensor: Rough idle but does not die in gear now.

Replaced throttle position sensor with new one: Runs better, no more dying in gear. I can drive it around now.

Still has a miss. Rough idle but doesn't act like it wants to die.

Check engine light is on.

Can I read codes on a 92? I know its not OBDII, but can I figure out WHY the check engine light is on?

The guy I bought it from says the miss started on the longer drive home.

Thanks for the help so far guys! I am learning a lot. Any other ideas?

eightlitermopar

Take it to the local major parts store and have them read the codes for you. Most will do it for free.

OK, update again for anyone who is interested.

It is a pet peeve of mine when someone asks a question then doesn't follow up with what they did to solve the problem, so I am trying to not be that guy.

I was able to figure out how to read codes on the "Check engine light" by counting the flashes.

I did not disconnect the battery after changing the Throttle position sensor.

Here is what I have:
12, 45, 51, 27, 15, 24, 32, 55

According to what I can see online, this is what I have found.
12: Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles.

45: Governor pressure solenoid circuit. **
or
Overdrive solenoid circuit. **
or
Governer mid-pressure malfunction. **
or
Governor pressure sensor volts above rated volts. **
or
Governor pressure sensor volts below rated volts. **
or
Transmission relay circuit. **
or
3-4 shift malfunction. **
or
Governor low pressure malfunction. **
or
Governor pressure sensor. **
or
Overdrive switch low. **

51: A lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an abnormally rich correction factor.
Side note here** When the truck was running, I was attaching and disconnecting vacuum lines to see if it made any difference. I think this is why this code was thrown.

27: Fuel injector not responding.

15: No vehicle speed sensor signal detected during road load conditions. **
or
Low output speed sensor RPM, above 15MPH.

24: Throttle position sensor signal does not correlate to MAP sensor. **
or
Throttle position sensor input below the minimum acceptable voltage. **
or
Throttle position sensor input above the maximum acceptable voltage. **

32: An open or shorted condition detected in the EGR solenoid circuit.

or

A mechanical problem found in EGR system (vaccum line leak, defective EGR valve, plugged EGR tube, etc.).

55: Completion of fault code display on Check Engine Lamp. (end of codes)

I think the first culprit to investigate would be the injectors since the truck is having a miss. Anyone agree with this logic?

eightlitermopar

This is TBI or MPI? If it's TBI you can check the injectors with a timing light and see if they are firing, and whether they have a good spray pattern. Code 45 will always show up when equipped with a 3 speed auto, disregard this one. My Ramcharger had EGR problems as well, probably could have been cleaned but I replaced it. That will definitely cause some bad running issues. Start with the free things, EGR can be cleaned with carb cleaner.

This is an MPI fuel delivery system.

I forgot to mention that when the truck is in park and the engine is revved, it revs good and strong but on the deceleration of the RPM's, there is a "POP" like a backfire.

I'll check the injectors today and I can clean the EGR valve. Does anyone know the normal range of OHMS of these injectors? (I haven't got a manual yet).

I'll keep you guys posted. If you have any other ideas, let me know. The plan is to attack this starting with the cheap (or free) things like you said.

eightlitermopar

I think the pop/ backfire and lean condition point to lack of fuel, possible a dying fuel pump (or clogged fuel filter at the least). My 94 318 had a same issue that I chased for a while and a weak fuel pump was the culprit. For me on a cold start it would backfire on tip in. Performance got worse until I couldn't drive 45mph on the interstate.

The transmission often gets the blame when it dies going into gear but it's tuneup related 99.9% of the time.

Another update:

I am doing one thing at a time here.

I think I found a dead injector. I listened to all injectors with a mechanics stethoscope.

I could hear all of them "clicking" away, except the #2 injector is quiet.

Those little jokers cost 129 bucks each , so....is there anyway I can clean out/salvage this injector first?

thanks!

eightlitermopar

The ABS and BRAKE light staying on could be the sensor in the rear differential, or the wiring between the sensor, and the ABS solenoid located on the drivers rear frame rail just before the axle, or the ABS solenoid itself.

On several of my 91-93 trucks I have removed the ABS solenoid from the frame, and plumbed the brakes as they would have been on the pre-RWABS systems. Then simply unplug the ABS relay that is behind the glovebox on the firewall.

This ABS delete is a popular modification, and for myself and several others better braking, and a better non-spongy pedal feel is noticed.

$32 for a stock replacement at Rockauto...

I believe you can upgrade to the blue top Ford 24 lb/hr injectors with 4 holes for better fuel atomization. Those are in junkyards everywhere and also available online. I would replace them all.

$100 shipped to your door...and you get 2 spares! http://www.ebay.com/itm/24LB-FUEL-INJECT...721&vxp=mtr

pull one at the junkyard, if you can't afford rock auto.

I've got pics of the ford injectors when I switched, and the crud that came out of the old ones.
http://ramchargercentral.com/mopar-trucks/1999-w250-project/


BTW there was a set of 7 NOS Mopar injectors on ebay last night for 95 bucks

Thread on General board mentioning the Ford injector upgrade for later 5.2: https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...e=0#Post8330355

Any high impedance (12-15 ohm) 24 lb/hr injector with an EV1 connector will fit. Some have a thicker body, some are narrow. Length and connector are the main factors. Every o-ring end(s) I've ever seen is the same.

Awesome! I think I am going to remove them and clean them up for now.

However, a 4 hole injector upgrade in the future is on my list. I like that idea a lot.

Can an injector get dirty enough to cause it to bind the spring up inside? COULD a cleaning remedy this, potentially?


I am new to injection stuff, so I am learning as I go.

Thanks again guys. I want to get this miss figured out, then I am on to the brakes.

UPDATE:

I bit the bullet and bought new injectors.

I replaced the passenger side bank this morning (since that was the side with the suspected bum injector)

It runs ALOT better. I will replace the other bank in a few days as time allows, but this will at least allow me to drive it and get it on the road.

The check engine light is still on, so as I sort through the other codes I will start different threads.

As far as the stalling in gear, it did it once to me this morning. I disconnected the throttle position sensor and it quit dying in gear.

(I heard that converters can lock up and sometimes disconnecting this will disengage it. It must have worked and now it's hooked up again.)

Anyway, thanks for the help. I'll keep everyone posted as I go with this new project.

Eightlitermopar