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Ladder bars, super simple and hooks in a car wash...4-links are a pain. Also, its likely a 4-link will have the coil overs protrude thru the bed...
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my vote is for ladder bars
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Ladder bars, super simple and hooks in a car wash...4-links are a pain. Also, its likely a 4-link will have the coil overs protrude thru the bed...
your truck is one of my favorite d series trucks ive seen. did you eliminate the leafs? id love to see some more pictures of your setup. what brand coil overs did you use? did you buy a ladder bar kit or did you make it yourself?
im wanting to eliminate the leafs due to them being junk. plus im planning to lower
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Also, its likely a 4-link will have the coil overs protrude thru the bed...
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A 4 bar system closely resembles a 4 link but is much more street friendly. Either way your going to have the replace the underbed gas tank with a fuel cell to make room unless you have a in cab tank.. .
http://artmorrison.com/rearsusp-kits.php
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A 4 bar system closely resembles a 4 link but is much more street friendly. Either way your going to have the replace the underbed gas tank with a fuel cell to make room unless you have a in cab tank.. .
http://artmorrison.com/rearsusp-kits.php
i plan on putting a fuel cell in it. so all that space is free. so is there any disadvantages to competition engineering parts? im debating between these
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cmb-15-0017/overview/
http://www.jegs.com/i/Competition+Engineering/247/2006/10002/-1
or the street kit from artmorrison which runs about $720
if i order the CE kits i will weld most of it together.
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The so called street kits have 60' times all over the board in something that leaves hard Urethane is not as stiff as a hiem joint
How fast do you want to go? & how much street driving are you going to do?
I can tell you from past experience if you ride hiems on the street & you don't grease them regular your next launch may be into the next lane
You can run 10's with leaf springs cheap & lower it till the frame sits on the ground
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A 4 bar system closely resembles a 4 link but is much more street friendly. Either way your going to have the replace the underbed gas tank with a fuel cell to make room unless you have a in cab tank.. .
http://artmorrison.com/rearsusp-kits.php
i plan on putting a fuel cell in it. so all that space is free. so is there any disadvantages to competition engineering parts? im debating between these
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cmb-15-0017/overview/
http://www.jegs.com/i/Competition+Engineering/247/2006/10002/-1
or the street kit from artmorrison which runs about $720
if i order the CE kits i will weld most of it together.
Yes you will need a fuel cell... stock tank will not fit...Quote:
The so called street kits have 60' times all over the board in something that leaves hard Urethane is not as stiff as a hiem joint
How fast do you want to go? & how much street driving are you going to do?
I can tell you from past experience if you ride hiems on the street & you don't grease them regular your next launch may be into the next lane
You can run 10's with leaf springs cheap & lower it till the frame sits on the ground
X2
And I agree with that...Mine are solid mounted Heims, not poly. Just WD40them once in a while and keep an eye out for excessive wear...
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I use Mopar Performance perches $12.00 or so a set
I relocate the E brake cables when I flip
When you flip you get at least 5 if not 5 1/2" of drop that bracket is the last thing in what I call the dragline zone
It also relieves stress on the cables
Here's a pic of that bracket relocated
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so cut off the old and weld on the new then?.
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with the work you need to do to get it on the road, its faster to do the ladder bars now.
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If it has a V6 the bolt pattern is 5x5.5" Same as Ford truck. 84 was last yr for 4.5" bp. You can swap it to 4.5 just by swapping to 80-84 Rotors and if your swapping out the rear for a car D60 its already 4.5. Might be cheaper to get a truck D60 and have the ends cut and the car ends installed and new axles. Car ones seem to ne $700+ when you can get a tuck one for as little as $150 than $300 for new axles with green bearings from Doctor Diff and maybe $150 for car ends to be installed
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You will never get 33s insyde the fenders without tubing and frame work..
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My Shortbed will wear 16X33X15 Goodyears when finished with this
