Posted By: 76dodgeboy
Truck D60?? - 01/28/13 10:19 PM
Im planning on turning my 76 D200 into a trailer to haul the 4wheeler. My question is can I remove the carrier and the rear end be good for use.
Truck D60??
Posted By: stumpy
Re: Truck D60?? - 01/28/13 10:38 PM
No because you need something to keep the axles from flopping around. No reason to take the rear apart just use it as is.
Posted By: 76dodgeboy
Re: Truck D60?? - 01/28/13 10:45 PM
Reason is its a track lock. Didn't want to want it object a trailer. I'll just toss a 9.25 under it. I have a D60 with 3.54s that I was planning to use the track lock in. That will ne going in my crewcab
Posted By: 76dodgeboy
Re: Truck D60?? - 01/28/13 10:48 PM
Can the axles just be removed?
Posted By: savoy64
Re: Truck D60?? - 01/28/13 11:00 PM
you can just cut the axles off the little flange that seals the end of hub---you will have to put sometype of plug into the pinion hole so you can keep the fluid up high enough to keep oil on the axle bearings....bob
Posted By: hp383
Re: Truck D60?? - 01/28/13 11:10 PM
Quote:
Can the axles just be removed?
I don't know why you couldn't remove the carrier, and axles. Since its a floating axle rear.
As long as you could seat the pinion hole, and install the rear cover to keep fluid in it it should be fine I would think.
You may even be able to remove the mentioned parts, and then use grease to pack the bearings. I know on semi trailers the axles can be ordered as an oil bath, or grease lubed bearing.
The bearing is the same, just the lube is different.
Posted By: scratchnfotraction
Re: Truck D60?? - 01/29/13 01:55 AM
thats what I have seen done. gut it. use bearing greese on the bearings.
done the same thing on 10 wheel trucks,ditch the rear axle chunk and make it a tag axle.
flat cover plate bolted where the drop out chunk goes,pack bearings with bearing greese,chop end of axle off for dust cap.
done the same thing on 10 wheel trucks,ditch the rear axle chunk and make it a tag axle.
flat cover plate bolted where the drop out chunk goes,pack bearings with bearing greese,chop end of axle off for dust cap.
Posted By: BulletBob
Re: Truck D60?? - 01/29/13 05:05 AM
Quote:
thats what I have seen done. gut it. use bearing greese on the bearings.
done the same thing on 10 wheel trucks,ditch the rear axle chunk and make it a tag axle.
flat cover plate bolted where the drop out chunk goes,pack bearings with bearing greese,chop end of axle off for dust cap.
Been there & done the same MikeYou cut a piece of sheetmetal in a circle the size of the pinion seal silicone it in & drive the seal in to hold it
Without the ring gear to toss the lube you have to pack the bearings
I did aluminum plates on the hubs
Posted By: Cooter
Re: Truck D60?? - 01/29/13 04:01 PM
If you have ever seen a cluster of 3 new Semi Tractors piggybacked, you will notice the back two have their axleshafts pulled and plywood covers are bolted to the hubs. The shafts can usually be seen strapped to the frame behind the cab.
(I wanted to do this with the front D60 on my M715, instead of Selectro hubs)
(I wanted to do this with the front D60 on my M715, instead of Selectro hubs)
Posted By: dhkennedy
Re: Truck D60?? - 01/29/13 05:03 PM
This is what I have done to a Dana 60 leaving axles intact but pulled the gears.Using a 6" piece of a 4x4 with 1 5/8 holes drilled about 2' holes drilled in each end. After pulled gears, reistalled axles, measured gap between them. Cut and drilled 4x4 and fill holes with grease then installed in axle as carrier, put cover back on. Then filled with gear oil, one quart more than required and installed the pinion plug.Pluged pinion hole with a plumers removable plug, the type that is used to water test rough plumbing.
Posted By: Cooter
Re: Truck D60?? - 01/29/13 07:00 PM
Easier to just pull the axles. They are just along for the ride anyway, and it is less work.
Posted By: 340SHORTY
Re: Truck D60?? - 01/29/13 09:12 PM
Quote:
No because you need something to keep the axles from flopping around. No reason to take the rear apart just use it as is.
With the axles bolted back on how are they going to flop around?
Posted By: Polarapete
Re: Truck D60?? - 01/29/13 11:27 PM
That is all you need to do, pull the axles and cap off the hubs. In a pinch, you can just use a rag. That is what we used to use when we had to tow a 3/4 ton and bigger truck with the rear axle on the ground a long distance. The center section won't turn without the axles driving it
Posted By: 76dodgeboy
Re: Truck D60?? - 01/30/13 08:17 AM
Wouldn't it have been easier to pull the drive shaft?
Posted By: cageman
Re: Truck D60?? - 01/30/13 08:49 PM
With the semi at an angle, the bearings wouldnt get lubed right and that is why you pull the axles.
I have done this to box trailers, I pulled the axles to use as spares, made a plate that bolted on to cover the end of the hub, I too pulled the sure grip and left the back cover off and the pinion out, gets people asking questions when they see it, or through it!
I have done this to box trailers, I pulled the axles to use as spares, made a plate that bolted on to cover the end of the hub, I too pulled the sure grip and left the back cover off and the pinion out, gets people asking questions when they see it, or through it!
Posted By: 76dodgeboy
Re: Truck D60?? - 01/30/13 08:59 PM
Quote:That was towards Polarapete
With the semi at an angle, the bearings wouldnt get lubed right and that is why you pull the axles.
I have done this to box trailers, I pulled the axles to use as spares, made a plate that bolted on to cover the end of the hub, I too pulled the sure grip and left the back cover off and the pinion out, gets people asking questions when they see it, or through it!
Posted By: Polarapete
Re: Truck D60?? - 01/31/13 09:36 AM
I worked weekends for a local towing company and we never had the equipment to tow a semi. I was speaking specifically about 3/4 ton and 1 ton pickups. We did not pull the drive shafts because (1) you had to crawl under the truck (2) chances of losing part of a u-joint (cap, roller, strap) were very good and then who would pay for it (3) maybe you could shift the loose drive shaft to the left or right under the truck and tie it up to the frame with rope after taping the u-joint together, but it would just as likely come loose on a rough tow and fall onto the road creating a hazard for anyone following (4) you could pull the shaft and then lose gear oil or atf on the road, which really PO's the state patrol (5) of course if it was a two-piece drive line then you could separate it at the carrier bearing. Of course it still makes a lot more sense to pull the axles from a standing position alongside the wheels, lay the axles in the bed of the tow truck, collect the bolts and washers in a bag and plug the hubs with rags.
Posted By: dhkennedy
Re: Truck D60?? - 01/31/13 02:51 PM
On 3/4 and 1 ton axles the wheel bearings are lubed with gear oil from the diff. Pulling the axles will let the oil run out of housing and not to the bearings. Shoving a rag in the end stops the leaking and lub getting to the bearings. The hub flanges must be capped as if the axles are still in to keep bearings lubed.
Posted By: Robbins
Re: Truck D60?? - 01/31/13 03:02 PM
You could do this.....just a suggesting.....Why not just take the brakes out or adjust them where there is no drag. I did this for 1/2 ton trailer seems to work fine. I realize we are talking two different rear ends, but...........
Posted By: hp383
Re: Truck D60?? - 02/01/13 02:10 AM
Quote:
On 3/4 and 1 ton axles the wheel bearings are lubed with gear oil from the diff. Pulling the axles will let the oil run out of housing and not to the bearings. Shoving a rag in the end stops the leaking and lub getting to the bearings. The hub flanges must be capped as if the axles are still in to keep bearings lubed.
OR as mentioned you can just grease the bearings and no longer have the need for the oil.
The bearings don't care if they are oiled, or greased, they just want to be happy and well lubed.
Posted By: hp383
Re: Truck D60?? - 02/01/13 02:12 AM
Quote:
You could do this.....just a suggesting.....Why not just take the brakes out or adjust them where there is no drag. I did this for 1/2 ton trailer seems to work fine. I realize we are talking two different rear ends, but...........
He wants to eliminate the trac-lok from the equation. Have you ever tried to hand move a trac-lok or sure grip rear differential? Much more difficult than an open rear, as you have to overcome the clutches.
Posted By: 76dodgeboy
Re: Truck D60?? - 02/01/13 02:18 AM
Im just going to toss a 8.25 or 9.25 under it
Posted By: Robbins
Re: Truck D60?? - 02/01/13 03:34 PM
Quote:Quote:
You could do this.....just a suggesting.....Why not just take the brakes out or adjust them where there is no drag. I did this for 1/2 ton trailer seems to work fine. I realize we are talking two different rear ends, but...........
He wants to eliminate the trac-lok from the equation. Have you ever tried to hand move a trac-lok or sure grip rear differential? Much more difficult than an open rear, as you have to overcome the clutches.
oh.........I see. Then why couldn't he just pull the track lock....leave the pinion and shove the axles back in and bolt them in and put the inspection cover back on and go? Just make sure there some lube in the hubs by sitting in a ditch for awhile on both sides right? Don't forget to back the brakes off.
Posted By: hp383
Re: Truck D60?? - 02/02/13 04:43 AM
Quote:Quote:Quote:
You could do this.....just a suggesting.....Why not just take the brakes out or adjust them where there is no drag. I did this for 1/2 ton trailer seems to work fine. I realize we are talking two different rear ends, but...........
He wants to eliminate the trac-lok from the equation. Have you ever tried to hand move a trac-lok or sure grip rear differential? Much more difficult than an open rear, as you have to overcome the clutches.
oh.........I see. Then why couldn't he just pull the track lock....leave the pinion and shove the axles back in and bolt them in and put the inspection cover back on and go? Just make sure there some lube in the hubs by sitting in a ditch for awhile on both sides right? Don't forget to back the brakes off.
That would also work. But then if you wanted to keep the matched ring/pinion set you wouldnt have that option. I also wonder if just bolting the axles in with no support in the center would cause them to wobble over time?
But it you remove all the "good" parts to save or sell, you can get a final result that has no drums, brakes, backing plates, etc. Just a hub on the end of the axle tube. Or leave the brake parts on and add a surge coupler to the front. Have working hyd brakes on the trailer
