Wood deck question

Years ago you guys help me when I was retiling my shower and I haven't had a problem in 9 years. So here's my next question. I'd like to build a wooden deck. It's close to the ground. Okay I'll fess up, I built the deck using pressure treated but not for ground contact and it all rotted out after 3 years. I'm in Florida and tons of humidity and rain.

So Home Depot has a wood designed for ground contact. And guarantees it. Or should I just bite the bullet and put down a concrete pad. I just happened to like the look of wood. So any advice gentlemen thank you.[img]https://quickshare.samsungcloud.com/igRkKPk4wd3p[/img]

[img]https://photos.app.goo.gl/SMrfFCiQCg9skdPP8[/img]

[img]https://photos.app.goo.gl/zgVTfRmUyPcT38cj6[/img]

So if one of the pictures has the wood Home Depot suitable for ground contact. The stuff I used was not suitable for ground contact and I had to tear it all out. Any advice is welcome. I really don't want to go to concrete but I might. Thanks guys

Big fan of concrete here. I HATE maintaining a wood deck...HATE. No more wood decks for me.

I'm a big fan of interlock brick (although not much of the stuff actually "interlocks" !!). The selection is vast, you can do it yourself and it will last a lifetime. Yes, it may "move" - so you pull a bit up and re-level it. Concrete cracks !!

Will patio stones work?

24"x24" at Home Depot is $8.14 a sq.ft some cheaper, some more depending.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Pavesto...-Pieces-56-sq-ft-Pallet-73700N/311989985

Does the deck have to be on the ground? If you put it on deck blocks you get some airspace under the deck so it's less apt to rot.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-7-i...x-10-375-in-Concrete-Deck-Block/50113084

Kevin

How close? Have you looked into any regulations on what you can put where at your location? That should be the first thing to do before figuring out what to build. If not you may have to remove it after it's built if it's not up to code.

No wood deck posts when I built mine. Everywhere a post would go I put in a concrete footing and used the cardboard round sleeve to have it above ground. Nothing in ground to rot. Used 8" by 4' sleeve but cut them into 1 foot pieces since it only takes a few inches above ground. I think I ended up with around 20 footings. There are under every joist under deck. The biggest pain is you have to take time to adjust them to the same level. The posts for railing are above ground and carriage bolted to the double 2' X 10' header, This deck is 25 years old.

https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...be/tu59018594/p-1444442810759-c-5653.htm

I read every post here and thank you. It has to be low to the ground and order for the door to open. I have considered the composite fake wood. Anyway I'll make a decision in a week. But thank you again for your answers. And the guy who posted the picture your deck is beautiful. Maybe I could use concrete Footers though.

If I do go concrete I will make it bigger like 20x15. I should get a few estimates. Thank you again guys and someday I'll have my old Mopar on the road.

John

A few other idea's for footings.
https://www.hgtv.com/outdoors/outdo...s-the-best-type-of-concrete-deck-blocks-

Composite done, no stain no sealer no slivers when barefoot, it is more expensive at the hit. Nobody makes a stain that will last more than 2 years and pressure treated lumber now days is junk. Doug

This right here is step one

Around here, last time I looked, if they find something built not to code or without a permit they fine you $100/day till it's torn down and lord help you if you need a permit for demolition first, lol.

That was a few years ago, I am sure the fine has gone up.

Agreed, I tried them all. I will say what really worked on my deck was a sawzall with an 6? tooth blade

At ground level I would do unit pavers instead of a poured slab. Prep & compact the area, put down a layer of gravel, compact it again, then place the paver units.

If you do want a slab, there is a process of stamping & coloring the concrete so it won't look like a gray floor in a shop.

You have a lot of good options thrown at you, but I'll add this: IF you go with wood, stay away from the box stores to get your lumber. Go to a dock/seawall materials supplier and get the lumber rated for saltwater contact for the structure of your deck. It'll last forever.
See if there's a "Docks and Decks" lumber yard near you.

Google stone patios and there are some awesome things you can do with that method.

There is also the protection you get by burning the wood method for those who have not seen it.

https://youtu.be/Ko18frvqV7I?si=ma29hJc59lj34q_g

https://youtu.be/jTBZSVh9qKs?si=AorttWFlsERMhJQK

I read every poster and you guys gave me lots of options. Thank you very much. I won't go with pavers because I'm not good at getting things level.

I'm just finishing up a paver project in my back yard. I saved a bunch of money by doing all the manual labor myself. I dug out the dirt and removed it. Leveled the hole, put down the fabric and then brought in the gravel. The pro showed up and leveled the gravel, compacted it with his machine and laid out the pavers. By doing the hard work myself and leaving the finish work for him I cut the cost in half.

Building is a regional business. What works best in one place, may not be best in a different area. So, I would definitely recommend talking with experts in your local area. I can make some general suggestions, but consulting with someone who knows your local area is highly recommended.

Personally, I like the look of wood decks. Unfortunately, having wood in contact with the ground is going to a problem sooner or later. I've been away from the construction business for many years. Back years ago, pressure treated wood that was rated for ground contact would typically last 20 -25 years. For a lot of people, that is long enough. (I do not know how the pressure treated wood available today compares to the wood 20+ years ago.) If you installed concrete piers, as was mentioned above, that would extend the lifespan of the posts. If the pressure treated wood is painted a year after it is installed, it will last even longer. Ultimately, wood will decay and rot.

If you like the look of wood and want to spend (considerably!) more money, there are other rot resistant woods available. These look different than pressure treated wood. Cedar, black locust, redwood, etc. are examples.

A properly installed concrete patio will generally last longer than a wood deck. I do not like the appearance of a plain concrete patio. There are many things that can be done to make concrete look better. In many cases, installing stone over the concrete produces the most attractive look. Some tile is rated for outdoor use, so that is another option to cover the concrete. Some people install bricks over a concrete base so they have a brick patio. Bricks can also be used as a border around the edge of a concrete patio. The area where the bricks will be installed is poured at a lower level. This makes the top of the brick even with the top of the concrete. In addition to covering concrete, there are several ways to color concrete. There are colors that can be mixed into the concrete before it is poured. The advantage of doing this is when the concrete is chipped, it will not affect the color. One of the issues with these is you only get one shot to get the desire color. Of course, there are various stains and paints that can be used as well. There are other various techniques to change the surface appearance of concrete to dress it up. If some of these options are chosen, concrete can be made quite attractive.

I like to mix some of these choices. For example, use a colored concrete with a brick border. Another option is to install a stone perimeter and then install a center section of wood decking. (Use the stone / concrete to support the wood to keep the wood off the ground.) If you select tile, various colors and sizes of tile can be used to create designs on the patio. A little creativity can go a long ways in creating a more attractive outdoor seating area!

Hopefully, some of these ideas will helpful. It is important to chose something that will look good with the rest of the home and that fits into the neighborhood. Another option to dress up a deck is to landscape around the deck. Flowers, shrubs, and other decorations can make the deck look more attractive as well.

Thank you guys again.

Leaning toward concrete, If I could get PT last 20-25 years, I would go with that.

No permits needed a few years ago, but,,,,things change in Manatee Fl.



I dd look at the composite, but a lot of reviews said it warped.

Concrete pad, with maybe a decorative border of wood or brick. Thanks for the ideas!

PS, I can always park a classic car on a concrete pad!

Wood does not go well up against bare concrete when moisture is added into the equation, fwiw.

Take some time to look at images online and borrow ideas from them. I think plain flat concrete is boring and then if it cracks it's an eyesore. I'd have it pattern stamped and colored out if you can afford it.

Plastic simulated wood materials can be slippery when wet from my experience with it.

My experience is that even though composite decks are better than treated wood they are not with out their own issues.