Looking at trailers - so many options and choices

Starting to think about buying a trailer.
Not in use storage is a major factor. So Im not sure an enclosed is a viable option for me.

Im weighing the options to go open , or enclosed

18 ft opens average little under $4000 for brand new 2023 models And these are brand new I can pick my color 7000 gvw Brakes on the rear axle only. Steel frame, wood deck spare included.

I found a seller in Phoenix that has 2023 Pace American new 8.5' x 22' enclosed cargo trailer at $14,800 and for bonus points ( to me anyway ) it has 5200 lb Drop Spring Axle w/ Superlube Hubs, Plus 12 in of Added Height - Vertical Post Height - 96 3/4 in which I think is good. BUT well aboce waht I really prefer to spend of at all possible. UNLESS, when I resell, next year will it retain its value enough to offset the purchase price difference, Meaning how much will it depreciate in my allotted time frame, or will it ?

Ive found a used 24 ft enclosed, Hallmark but its a 1995 model for $7000 it has a few small dents and dings, but nothing major and overall looks solid . Just old. . Plus Im sure it was a lower grade model when new


I like the 24 ft enclosed . But deep down I think it will require storing in one of the RV storage pay lots. And Ive not looked into how much that costs yet . Keeping it at my house is not an option. For more than a few days


My thought process is keep it a year,,,, maybe a little longer . To do what I want to do in the next 12-18 months . Then sell it. Ideally get all or most of my money back. Which is why Im thinking enclosed. But Ive not kept up on trailers and values in any way. Ive looked for a decent used and they are not much , if any less $$$ than the brand new one.


Pics attached of the used Pace and the new open

The new pace, But its only 22ft which Im sure will work just fine for me.

But deep down, I dont think I want to spend this kind of money for what I want to do. And keeping it long term is really not my intention.

That used enclosed is probably at the bottom of its depreciation, and better for storing stuff, even a car you want to keep indoors.
2 influencing factors might be your tow rig and cost of trailer storage - if you know someone with property, the storage might not be much money.
Seems to me - and I have a very nice open trailer - that enclosed trailers are more highly regarded and better ROI.
Heck, you could rent it out (carefully) and make money off it.
I rented an enclosed to pick up my '69 RR in SD 3 years ago for $100/day.

My truck is a 2102 Ram 1500 quad cab short bed, hemi auto. Pulling an enclosed should not be a problem. (Friend of mine has the same exact truck and 24ft enclosed combo and has zero issues pulling or stopping it all over the country )

Ive had opens behind it several times and it pulls and stops it just fine..


A friend of mine has offered I store it at his house, but he's at least 45 minutes, closer to an hour away. So thats a factor to consider. Although . its free


Keeping it beyond my initial time frame will be an issue more so with the enclosed than with the open.


Ive thought about the renting it option, But not sure Im ready to trust complete strangers to actually bring it back

FWIW, we pulled the 24' enclosed with a Ford Excursion Diesel, and it was no big deal.
Weirdest thing was the V-nose gave an aero effect of initially moving away then sucking toward the big rigs we passed; especially empty.
Same scenario with a flat nose hasn't done that.
What the rental guy does is charge a deposit & have the trailer insured, said he'd had no problems except occasional minor damage.
The trailer was pretty tired, had a lot of miles & years on it, and up here folks (and weather) can be pretty hard on stuff...YMMV, hopefully.

Thanks, MY gut tells me dollar for dollar the 24 ft enclosed is the better option.

BUT storage will be an issue more so than with the open


I also have seen an aluminum open for sale as well for $6500 but its only 16ft and think length wise that might be an issue for my use AND potential resale to keep its value . Which then makes me think for $500 more the enclosed is a better buy even if it is almost 20 years old


decisions decisions

16 feet is OK for an A-body - the rear will hang off of it - but pretty tight for a B-body.

Well from recent personal experience DO NOT buy a Quality Cargo enclosed trailer! I have had it about a year and the whole right side is falling off, cold welds on the gussets that hold the siding to the frame, in fact the fender on that side tilted at an angle and blew both tires out! I dropped it off at the manufacturer in Georgia (another place NOT to buy new trailers that were manufactured there) and they haven't even looked at it going on two weeks now. I have owned over a dozen enclosed, and 6 open trailers in the last 40 years and have NEVER had anything like this happen to me... My experience with axles is NOT to buy spring axles, go with torsion axles, they last a lot longer with little maintenance while the spring axles are weaker and I have actually had a spring break recently and the shackles don't last long anymore because they are all Chinese made. And one last thing, you definitely get what you pay for with a new trailer...

A 22 foot enclosed trailer will really limit resale. Not many guys are looking for 22 foot trailers. I went from 24 to a 26 foot trailer when I ordered a new one in 2017 and love it.

I've use borrow doulble axle trailers with no brakes or suspension when we first started racing, never again after wrecking one (and totaling the race car) due to a dog running out in front of my 1960 1/2 ton Ford long bed pickup truck. I had a old 1955 Dodge D500 flatbed truck I had converted to haul cars and used that for several years, one of the guys at work offered me more for it to haul a small tractor on it than I could turn down so I sold it. I bought a 1973 Ford F350 crew cab 8 Ft. single rear wheel pick up and converted it int a car hauler by having the frame stretch 5 ft. and adding a twelve foot long flat bed with a 30 inch long adjustable dove tail onto the end of it along with going to dual rear wheels and tires.: up: That truck was a pleasure to use empty or loaded
I ended up selling it also and bought an old 1957 dodge 1-ton Roundy round race car hauler that needed a lot of work, STUPID
After that got fixed up and sold 3 yrs. later I bought my first enclosed race car trailer, it was a 24 ft. inside Braceo, It was really heavy, 6,000+ lbs. empty. Full of tools, spare tires and rims and the 3000 Lb. race car it was almost over the 10,000 Lb GVR
Next was a custom ordered and made 22 Ft Pace Shadow with a 7,000 Lb GVR that was way heavier new empty than the salesman had told me it would be, it weighed right at 4300 Lbs. empty at the factory in Hurricane Utah when I picked it up, the salesman had said it should weigh under 3000 Lbs. empty, wrong
Bottom line is I now have a 1999 24 ft. enclosed Pace Shadow 10,000 Lb. GVR car trailer that I have had since around 2003 that I like a lot and it will probably be my last race car trailer
Maybe not a 35 Ft gooseneck with a living and sleeping quatres would be nice for out of town races next year
I forgot to mention that I ended putting electric winches on all my car hauling trucks and enclosed trailer with a 30 Ft. long cord Makes loading them a breeze with no hassles straining your self driving them up or into or using a come a long to load them like we use to do years ago

I have a 15? year old Featherlite open alum tandem torsion axle trailer, it's seen a lot miles/use been t boned and had axles ripped off, can sell it today for nearly what i paid for it. Best trailer I have own, tows great.
Everyone says I never have to worry about them stealing the car on the trailer, the thief will be stealing the trailer.

I have a Featherlite 20' enclosed bought it right before COVID.It was used by a plumbing contractor.
Not everyone wants a 24' trailer guys with smaller race cars, motorcycles,utv .....etc want them. When I was looking I found some really good deals on smaller trailers.
I have hauled my e-body with mine.

I have a 32' LQ trailer with a 20' garage, it has been just find hauling my Darts and I even used to haul my 69 D200 long box in it along with my 69 Monaco 500 convertible. Sure it is tight tying them down, and anything else I need to bring along goes in the LQ area, but 20' is adequate for most vehicles just going to car shows.

Heard back from the seller of the used 24ft enclosed. It sold yesterday.

I would like to have an enclosed for the safety - security factor. But storing it will be a problem, / expense.

Im in no rush as I dont really need it until next spring anyway. So I can be patient / picky / choosey.


EDIT,,,, been 2 like new Aluma Trailers pop up near me. A 2023 and a 2022 model. But both are only16ft, flat deck no dovetail. And am giving thoughts to go take a look at them.

One thing to think about when going open instead of enclosed is ramps. Good ramps are HEAVY and mount under the low trailer. I use my open trailer at least monthly; in March I slid a ramp out and felt a twinge in my back that turned into a week of stiffness and moving slow. That was a great trailer that had been all over the country and was set up exactly the way I wanted, but I sold it off and bought a tilt in May. A tilt will probably cost 50-75% of an enclosed, but what you're doing with it will tell you what you should get.

I bought a set of 7' aluminum ramps for my open trailer 15 years ago, some of the best money I have ever spent! I carry them in the back of my pickup when I am using the trailer, the original steel ramps are still under the trailer, I wonder if they will ever come out again?

New listings near me

Scored this one for $3,000

Mine $6500

With an enclosed if your hauling a car nothing smaller than a 24' that will give you a small area for storage up front, also get a 60" tongue, If an open 18' is the minimum.

Been thru 4 of them now. All junk except the last one. NEO Heavy Duty. Very decent quality, finally.

https://neotrailers.com/trailer_nhd.php

20' is the longest they make?

I can’t justify a new trailer to use once a year. I also can’t justify paying basically the new trailer cost for a used. Seems people pay that for used so that’s all I see them priced at. So I just borrow small trailers from family and don’t go to long distance shows. I used to buy cars all over the country and had a 20’ open. Awesome and I wouldn’t want an 18 if buying new.

You are right lots of options.. I have a 2000 Hallmark 20 ft. I bought new it has been a great trailer and the only problems in years of owning it were a frozen rear ramp door hinge and a slight electrical short. It tows great but looks terrible with badly faded paint. I would like to replace it with a new one but prices are high ( I paid $5200 back in 2000 the same trailer now is around $15,000 ) If I do replace it it will be with another Haulmark. I have looked at others (ProLine , Look etc ) but read bad reviews on them " you really do get what you pay for " One trailer dealer told me that the Look trailers were so bad he stopped selling them. Aluminum trailers are getting more popular but although my race car and stuff I carry isn't heavy I worry about the aluminum cracking over time.

I've decided an enclosed is out of the question.
Mainly due to not in use storage issues.

I'm considering an aluminum open deck trailer.

For the less overall load weight.
But have heard issues with them cracking ???

Any feedback ?

As a steel fabricator I wouldn't consider aluminum unless weight was the overriding factor.

Aluminum doesn't give or bend as much as steel, meaning it's more prone to breaking out right. It also doesn't absorb vibrations as well as steel, which is not good for trailers that are subject to constant dynamic loading going down the road.

Aluminum...a buddy of mine who was a transporter for many years - millions of miles - bought a Featherlight enclosed many years ago.
Cost has never been an object for him, and he was looking for the weight advantage.
He took really good care of his stuff, religious on maintenance and the like.
It cracked, IIRC, near the tongue. He went back to steel frames.
I know there are a lot of them out there, and they have their fans, but that was his experience

I've owned two open aluminum trailers. One a 17' Featherlite and the other a 16' that I could never determine what brand it was as it didn't have any labels or tags on it. The registration that came with it only identified it as unknown where the manufacturer line was. The Featherlite seemed well constructed and had no cracking and was over 20 years old. The other one however did have cracks in the welds where the bed was attached to the frame at the front of the trailer. I am currently looking for another open 17' and Featherlite is the brand I would prefer to get.

My Texas Rollback trailer has been rock solid since the day I bought it back in 2010. Too bad they went out of business.

This is all spot on, speaking as a Certified 3G alum welder for over 40 years. I own a open Featherlight I mentioned above. If you plan to use on a regular basis, IMO the first thing to look for on an Alum trailer is ANY structural weld. The less welding the better, the location is also critical, they all will eventually fail based on time of use, and loading. It's the nature of the beast. Seems to me the most problem prone area is where the A frame tongue gets welded to the rectangular flat car carrying platform. The less welding there the better. Don't forget all welding on alum only make the alum weaker, and the weld causes a stress concentration in all situations. Featherlite has been the best execution I have seen so far.
All this said, I would never own a steel one car carrier trailer.

This is what I design, fabricate, weld and install in Alum for over 4 decades.

Aluminum or steel?

When (not if) the aluminum cracks, its screwed. The material has reached its stress point, any repair increases the problem, it adds new stress points. Steel can at least be repaired.

Aluminum does not rust, but is does corrode, and that corrosion is amplified at any point the aluminum is against steel. Corrosion on aluminum has the same effect as a crack in aluminum, except welding on the corroded aluminum is a lost cause.

I find it interesting that the guy that doesn't want to buy a used trailer because the cost is close to the new price, is concerned about the value of a new trailer he wants to buy and sell in a year. Because the trailer is HIS, people are going to line up to buy his one year old trailer and near the cost of a brand new one?

The deal with trailers is, you buy the one you want now, then 5 years down the road, you can probably can get your money back out of it if its still in good shape. Not because your trailer is now so valuable, but because the new trailers are more expensive, so the one you have, priced at what you paid for it 5 years ago is now a bargain.

Rules for buying a trailer,
1) Don't buy the cheapest trailer you can find. Its the cheapest because someone cut corners someplace.
2) Choose the length of trailer carefully. Long trailers offer more space, but are harder to maneuver, and they take up a lot more space when they are not being used.
3) Aluminum or steel? The older the trailer gets, the more problems they have. An enclosed trailer you don't have much choice, but on an open trailer, if saving weight is not a high priority, steel may be better.
4) On an open trailer, pay attention to the fender height, and the ramp length. Will you be able to open the door on a car on the trailer? Longer ramps weigh more, but improve the loading angle.
5) Hinges on loading ramps. The hinges location on most trailer loading ramps are in bad locations and can deteriorate pretty fast. Those are usually the least lubricated things on trailers, and are usually a royal pain to replace.
6) If you want to get your money back out of a trailer, expect to keep it at least 5 years, and take really good care of it.

Im not against buying used at all.

But seems all the used ones I see are priced close to , same as or even more than some new ones. Thus why I am asking for options/ opinions.


My purpose here is I have a trip back east with the car next year I want to do. And all in Im looking at a 4000 - 4500 mile round trip. Alum will save me a little on overall weight and maybe a little off the fuel bill. But if resell is less desirable, then I will rule that out.

Renting a U haul will cost me almost $1500 by the time Im done. And I have Nothing to show for it. Thus why I started to look at just buying one and resell it when my trips were done. And Not loose 1500 if at all possible.


I missed a nice looking 2020 18ft flat deck trailer today for $3500 . Spare tire and winch were included. I saw it 3 or 4 hours after it was listed, and the guy said he had a guy enroute to ck it out.

He marked it sold shortly after
Ive decided at a minimum 16ft. and max of 18ft due to storage constraints getting it in and out of where i will store it

Mines a 16 foot open trailer.
Keep an eye out for a decent looking used one but watch for how much work it needs. Going new and only keeping for a year isn't enough time to get your money back based on new prices going up. But at the same time you might not loose as much on it as If you bought a used one that needs new tires and other work so you have to watch what you're getting.
Mine needed more work then I'd have liked to do to it but it's the style I wanted and was built better then a lot of them I looked at and I couldn't justify the cost of new for something I rarely use.

Why would you want a trailer that is 7.5 wide on the inside
All the early (pre mid 1980) enclosed car trailers I look at where 96.0 inches overall width on the outside, mid or late 1980s they started offering the 8.6 inch wide outside enclosed car trailer, much better than the early 8.0 ft wide car trailer
Maybe being old and big (6.0 at 260 lbs.) I need more space to put my B and E body race cars in them, especially the E body's

My first trailer was an open 16 ft Econo Trailer made in Pa. I paid around $1300 for it back in the 80s , it was a great trailer made of steel only thing I ever replaced was tires once , I towed all over the place with no problems including hauling a heavy 56 Power Wagon, a small front end loader , sod , full size pick up etc. I believe they still make them but the price went up. I would have kept it but had no where to keep it. Several racers I know still have them and use them all the time.

When Looking at used trailers make sure you closely inspect the tires or just assume they will need to be replaced. Check dates, sidewall cracks, weight ratings. Also be aware that a lot of used trailers wind up with car or truck tires on them which is very much against DOT regulations. Some years ago Pennsylvania DOT was actively pulling over car hauling trailers and handing out tickets for incorrect tire type and/or weight rating. Probably worse now.

I personally am very skeptical of the alleged real uniqueness of trailer rated tires, other than its a legal escape clause for manufacturer liability. Weight limits and size are of course another matter. Semi's often have all position tires used, steering, drive and trailer.

I can't remember how many 15 inch trailer rated tires I 've had explode or throw the tread off of them, way to many
I carry three spares now

Swiping car trailers, boats and campers from storage rental places is a real thing so where you put one is important. Lock it up as much as you can, and keep it near a light and in sight of any of the security cameras.

IIRC, the use of truck tires is OK, they are weight de-rated for use on a trailer.

Sorry I over simplified that. The manufacturer of the trailer can choose to use either ST or LT tires. The catch is that if the trailer was rated with ST tires then LT tires of the same size most likely don't have as high of weight rating as the ST tires that were rated for the trailer. If you use tires with a lower weight rating than what came on the trailer then that can cause problems with insurance, warranty, and yes DOT. So if your trailer came with LT tires then you certainly can use LTs and probably STs because they would have a higher rating but if it came with STs then LTs will probably have too low of weight rating.

So technically it's not the LT designation that can be a problem it is the lower weight rating of the LT.

I don’t know why you’d doubt an ST tire is a specific build. Sidewall flex is the issue and thise are stiffer. You don’t run them on a truck because they’d beat you to death.

Running an LT tire on a trailer reduces the load rating by 11%. Due to sidewall flex they run hotter and hence the derating. I dunno if you’d get a ticket for it or not, but I’ve seen them on trailers for years and years.

Well, it's not a problem with semi's. Any potential issues with sidewall flex will be on a multi axle trailer and at under 5 mph.

How’s this compare

The trailer I have is made by "Load Trail" that I bought new in 2003. It's been a good trailer & it tows great. It's a 16' with a 7000 pound capacity, double axle with brakes on both of them, built in ramp storage, front curb rail & a wood deck. I had a local shop add D rings in several areas to give me better anchoring points. I also needed to replace a lot of the deck boards 5 years ago because I have to park it outdoors. I scuffed up the paint, cleaned some scale off the frame & repainted it with rattle cans a few years ago.

an 18' trailer would be ideal but the 16' is adequate, even for a B-Body.

Not sure where you are located but I got it from Marshall's Machinery in the Scranton, PA area for $1750 back when used ones were going for $2000 to $2500.

Update, And giving some thoughts to look at an enclosed, most likely a clean used one.

Taking any potential resale values out of it,

Why not a 20 footer ? The car will fit just fine. And have no real interest in extra storage gains. And I can find several avail in that size

Any issues strapping a car down in this size trailer ?
Any brands to avoid put to the top of the list in regards to quality?

Seems all the ones Im seeing are 10,000 gvw so a 24' will haul less than a comparatively equipped 20'

Like I said, odds are pretty good I will only keep it maybe 2 years. And dont want to take a bath on one at resale time.


As an example
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1963259404041348/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A4a4e930d-47d5-4ee8-b031-7e082b2fb5a4

another one

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1716139145878442/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A4a4e930d-47d5-4ee8-b031-7e082b2fb5a4

priced right in line with whats avail in my area.

$3500 for the trailer PBR posted seems like a helluva deal to me.

I've loaded B-bodies (which are about 17' long) into 20' and 24' enclosed trailers:
They fit fine, but tying down the front in a 20' is tight and demands more agility, and is really tight for big guys.
The other deal is the 24' allows more positioning to center vehicle weight.
20' is lighter, requires less storage space, 24' is better @ resale.
Different people prioritize different things, so there's not really a right/wrong answer if the size hits one's targets.

My 20 ft ... its a little tight because I carry a lot of stuff.. scooter, generator, but I make it work . I recently added a winch which takes up even more room and its a challenge using it while the scooter is in the trailer but again I make it work. I recommend getting a winch it comes in so handy .. just this past weekend broke a u joint and hurt the driveshaft I sure was I glad had a winch as loading the car afterwards was very easy.

While 20ft trailers (enclosed) might not appeal to some car crowds, they are becoming more popular in the desert SW to haul/store side by sides, especially ones with added height. Smaller trailer easier to park at trailheads, motels etc.
storing a trailer outside in the desert….. count on buying new tires every two years. I actually remove the wheels from both of our trailers during the hot months. Our boat was stored in the garage and those tires were six years old when we sold it.

Tire enemies in descending order IMO:
1. Low/improper pressure
2. Overweight
3. High speed
4. Lack of regular use
5. Direct Sun exposure UV
6. High road temp
7. High Ambiant temps

Im starting to lean towards a used enclosed and can find A LOT of 20 footers reasonably priced ( under 10k)



Used 18 ft opens range in the $3500 to $4500 range depending on wood versus steel deck, manufacture, age etc

I can buy a brand new 18ft wood deck, which equals 16 ft deck and 2 ft is a dovetail. in my choice of white, red, tan or black with a spare tire for $3950 all in done ( shown ) and out the door. ive found a nice 2020 alum 18ft for $6500 all in, also with a spare

Had a 16ft open pop on marketplace this morning for $1900 and it was gone in under an hour

Also giving some thoughts to one of these.

My fear is the steel decks get slick when wet! So, I wonder if the car will move around in transport,,,,OR make it difficult to load / unload in wet conditions

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/253765690782008/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A0afd0f9f-5ab5-453f-8a0c-d25d24e40233

What are you even talking about? You didn’t know what the deal was with an ST tire. I gave you the facts.

I always thought those looked cool. The step would be useful, but I also always considered the extra weight to drag around. If you can live with your car being exposed, an open is a breeze to deal with(no pun intended.). If you go enclosed, get one with a winch or plan to add one. All the enclosed ones I was involved with made life better by winching in. The ones without were super unfun.

For the money and used ones needing tires and/or brakes, plus the high resale on used trillers, I’d seriously consider buying a new one.

https://cincinnati.craigslist.org/trb/d/lebanon-2023-blazer-82x20ft-7000-car/7653536905.html

This is similar to what I had, except I went with a steel deck. I know nothing of this brand, just that it has the same look to the construction. Seems a pretty universal package. You could save some on an 18, I’d go with the 20 based on how mine pulled. A board member still owns it as far as I know.

A big ole stone shield would be nice. That’s something I’d cough up for next time.

[I personally am very skeptical of the alleged real uniqueness of trailer rated tires, other than its a legal escape clause for manufacturer liability. Weight limits and size are of course another matter. Semi's often have all position tires used, steering, drive and trailer.


I don’t know why you’d doubt an ST tire is a specific build. Sidewall flex is the issue and thise are stiffer. You don’t run them on a truck because they’d beat you to death.

Running an LT tire on a trailer reduces the load rating by 11%. Due to sidewall flex they run hotter and hence the derating. I dunno if you’d get a ticket for it or not, but I’ve seen them on trailers for years and years.



quote=SomeCarGuy]

What are you even talking about? You didn’t know what the deal was with an ST tire. I gave you the facts. [/quote]
I don't see any need to repeat myself.
Maybe if you were more specific in expressing your confusion, I might be able to clarify.
Tell me, what is the deal with an ST tire with facts rather than claims. Are you saying with the same size tire with same load rating category a LT is rated significantly different than a ST? Even if so, the marked load rating chosen should match or exceed the application, period.
BTW, tire sidewall flex on a trailer tire is only extreme when doing tight turns on tandem+ axle trailers which is usually at the low speeds speaking of "facts".
Normal sidewall flex is of no greater concern on a trailer vs any other vehicles under normal driving conditions that I haven't already noted above and requiring no special consideration for sidewall stiffness., but if you got facts to prove otherwise, I'm all ears.
I believe I debunked your stiffness concern by noting semis's have and use often all position tires and your noted stiffness seems to be of little concern it appears with all position rated tires..

Once again jcc pollutes the board with his engineering degree, rock star music ability, and Ivy League tv lawyer Superman skills. It was bliss not having him on the board for awhile, too bad he’s back.

All because jcc doesn’t know squat about trailer tires. Good luck proving what you are alleging. I posted the deal with ST because you showed up here not knowing what they are and what they are for. That’s not a me problem, it’s a jcc problem. Deal with it.

If Im reading this right. Trailer is 8.5' wide and 22' long ?????

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1716139145878442/

Worth the difference ?


https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2550842968403928

Told a friend about a nice trailer local the other day.

I would buy that today. But the 2500 miles between us would be a deal breaker .

Still never met anyone who said "man I wish my garage was smaller or my trailer was shorter." I own three trailers an 18' open, a 28' enclosed and a 34' enclosed. More space is never a bad thing unless its a storage issue I suppose.

I have had steel deck trailers for decades, yes the get slick when wet, but my ramps had anti-skid coating on them and once the rear tires actually got on the trailer and off the ramp there were no issues. Of course you can always winch the car on if it is slick, and ALL trailers should have a winch on them...

This. I never had an issue with a car moving around during a transport.

We sprayed bedliner - the real stuff - on my steel deck open trailer, and did the flat tops of the fenders as well; haven't slipped since.
BTW, putting Clearbra on the forward-facing areas of the fenders has kept them nice.

Sold my enclosed last year and have been in the market for an open. They are wanting crazy prices for trailers. I may have to hold off and wait for the economy to get better.

I plan to have a winch on it / in it regardless of type of trailer so thats not a problem. My concern was it moving around if get caught in the rain, A friend of mine has a steel deck open trailer and he told me it gets real slick in the rain. And loading it under its own power is out of the question, Thus a winch is mandatory.

Im open to steel deck, wood deck, steel frame or even an aluminum frame if price is right. Hell im not against an enclosed if price is right.

My concerns with an enclosed is GVW , seems most of the enclosed under 22 ft or less are only 7000 gvw . Where as most ( but not all ) 24 and up are at least 10,000 gvw

There is a dealer in Glendale I've been talking to that has brand new 20ft opens ( that are 18ft with additional 2 ft dovetail ) for $4000 and for the moment is my 1st choice . Steel frame, wood deck. 2 ft steel dovetail. 5 ft ramps ( shown )

I dont actually need it until next spring. So Im in no rush.


And yes, storing it is a concern.

I was interested in a 2018 20ft box that had the 3 ft Vnose on it for $9500 , Thats at the top of my budget but it sold before I could make up my mind if I wanted to go that route

it seems anything enclosed of similar length and condition under $10k sells fairly easy/quickly.


One of my concerns with an enclosed, is weight on the truck. Its a 2012 ram 1500 quad cab 2wd. I dont want to overload it by any means.
Going longer only to get additional indoor storage is of zero concern. This is to transport the car with maybe a jack and spare tires and nothing more.
My car is about 17ft end to end. So that rules out an 18ft enclosed so Im looking 20ft , prefer a 22ft if I can find one, 24 ft is maximum (primarily thinking about GVW issues going that long )

A friend of mine has offered me his 20ft enclosed for a heck of a deal, problem is,,,its 2200 miles away.

Your truck can haul any trailer up to 28' with ease. I hauled a 29' v-nose with a 2000 Ram quad cab 4x4 5.9 gas for years, no issues going over the mountains in PA to CO. I towed a 34' LQ trailer with my 2015 Ram that weighed around 10K lbs and it was definitely at it's limits but would still do it without much complaint...

Mr Mendoza’s prices were decent enough for me to burn some fuel to go visit him when we were shopping for a 14’ trailer for our RZR. The wiring needed a little help as the metal tabs they used to route the wiring through were razor sharp and we lost our running lights on our first trip to Utah. Spent a little time with a dremel and some wiring protector to remedy that. I’d also suggest that on a “new” trailer purchase to check the wheel bearings. We had one axle that the hub temps were a bit higher and I noted pulling the bearing caps that the grease was notably darker. Loosened the nut a flat and they’ve been great since. Between Utah trips and SoDak we’ve probably put 8k miles on it and tire wear is spot on so the build quality seems to be a-ok. On the wheel bearing deal I’m betting about any manufacturer simply gets the axles ready to run and build, install, ship.

Thanks for the feedback,

Im between this new open and a used enclosed.
Open is 2 hrs away.
enclosed is 2200 miles away. But I am seriously giving thought on how to get it to AZ

I have been shopping for a 20' enclosed, but not seriously yet. When I look at the price at used vs. new I don't think I'll consider used unless one falls in my lap. Everything new and a warranty vs. spending roughly the same money for used just makes no sense.

On the other hand I am also shopping for a used diesel pusher as new is completely out of the question, financially. The problem is that many, if not most, of the vintage I am looking at (early 2000s) have 4-5k tow capacity. Some are 10k. On top of that, our credit union will loan on that age, BUT they use NADA/JDPower for value and it really appears that they are trying to set the market, not report on it. Some values are in line with the market while some are VERY low and condition has no bearing. So, the search continues. Prices and available units get better when the weather gets cold.

I have an 18' open and a 28' enclosed. Even my open has both axles with trailer brakes, a 4500 lb. Winch, extra lighting due to people almost merging behind me at night due to the trailer being black. Still use it for quick hauls or misc stuff. The 28' is great for winter storage and big enough for the golf cart, equipment and car during race season.