Compressor wiring

I have a 220v compressor in my garage. It is up off the floor and plugged into an outlet in the ceiling. I turn it on/off with the breaker but I want to wire in a switch going to the plug. Will someone draw out a diagram of how I would wire in the switch?

[align:right][/align]I’m not techy enough to draw it here, but you need a double pole switch as you are simultaneously turning both legs on and off, just like you are currently doing with the breakers.

Get a 240V non fused disconnect switch. Under $20 from Home Depot. It should show how to connect on it. Pretty much like this but imagine you're hooking up a compressor and not a water heater.

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-safety-switch.html

We really should know the compressor amperage here. One consideration, a compressor almost uniquely has huge start up current draws, meaning a typical rocker switch, will at some likely blow out is contacts after a number of starts under load. Better switches have a HP rating, but not sure if that takes into consideration a compressor type load. Stopping it with the switch when running also causes the contacts to arc slightly every time its turned off, again eroding the contacts. This is why "starters" are used in that the contact is quick, and forceful, and oversize. What you are doing will work, its not unsafe unless there are flammable vapors nearby, but will likely eventually fail.

A safety tip when doing the actual work, always "act" like every wire is always electrically hot, meaning if you touch it, don't simultaneous touch anything else ( were/how you stand is important) ie the bird safely sitting on the power line concept.

https://assets.gordonelectricsupply...VArSbvM813OeoUwHiIaTl0hdiuMaAn89EALw_wcB


I'd guess #7832 is close to what is best solution for you, based on what little we know so far.

Yes, you should be using a 120volt, regular switch that will turn on/off a contactor that controls the compressor . . . your compressor should have a starter on it (a contactor with an overload relay) that starts/protects the motor on the compressor. If you don't, then would suggest getting that, the "regular" 120 volt single phase switch controls the coil on the contactor/starter to the compressor . . . when in doubt, check with an electrician . .

https://www.google.com/search?clien...tarter#kpvalbx=_s97eXsLMHMPf-gTyso3oAQ28

I’ll be back with more information tomorrow. The compressor was a plug and play from Home Depot.

Magnetic starter or anything with 120V contact is overkill for a home depot compressor. Some people only use the plug to turn their compressor on and off. Yes the manual motor starter switch that JCC linked to is the best way to go and it essentially would look like a surface mounted switch and it would wire up the same way as the previous diagram.
Whats also important and what I should have asked before is how often is this compressor being turned off? I don't use mine regularely I've had it hooked up for years thru a non fused disconnect with no problem. I trust it more then the cheap switch compressors come with and circuit breakers aren't meant to be constantly turned on and off like that.

Motor is 15A single phase 240v.

15 amp, 240 volt single phase should be a piece of cake to wire up unless I'm missing something.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton...gle-Switch-White-R52-0CSB2-2WS/202027029

Electrically that should work fine, and cheap enough to replace yearly if and when it gives up. I could not make out a HP rating for the switch in the pic. I made a comment previously of the uniqueness of compressor start loads. To be clear, most "motors" do not start under full load. Some compressors have an unloading circuit on start up, that helps. Saws, fans, heaters, lights, etc do not have a huge start up current draw like a compressor does. Hard to believe this is same quality as a the Hubble stuff is, and of course it has to be made in China. And start up peak short term currents can easily be over double that of name plate ratings. So I'm slightly skeptical, but can't point to anything obviously wrong with this choice, based on what we know so far.

Looks lke it's 2HP-240V. Either way should be OK and if not it's cheap to replace and the rough-in is already there if you want to replace it with something better.

The one I posted was a 20 amp switch but Leviton has 30 amp and 30 amp HD wall switches so I suppose it is just up to the OP to decide which one to use. This one for $40 might be what I'd go with just because it looks beefy.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton...gle-Switch-Brown-200-01262-000/301447064

Thanks. I’m good with the switch.
Now the question is how do I go from the compressor simply being plugged in 12 feet from the floor and being controlled with the breaker to getting the the control in the switch at floor level. I know there are two hots going to the plug. What’s the best way to incorporate the switch? Do I ditch the plug and use the box as some type of junction box or do I use the switch to control the plug?
If this was 120V I could do it by running the neutral down to the switch then back up to the plug. But I’m thinking 240V is not that simple.
BTW I built and wired the entire garage (200A) and it passed a temporary inspection. That was several years ago and I’m trying to go back and finish up some things.

Seems to me it wouldn't be that expensive to have an electrician to correctly install your switch and remove the worry of an electrical fire.

That is an option, but during these “unprecedented days” I find myself with more time and less income.

My switch is wired between the plug and the motor.

I would suggest keeping the 6'(?) cord/plug on the compressor. You need to wire/conduit close to the compressor, install a box with the switch you choose, and then add a female outlet for the compressor's cord to plug into, I would add a pilot light of some fashion after the switch, it will have to be 240V wired between the two hot legs, or just use a single leg (120V), but that would require a neutral, do not be lulled into using the ground. Regardless, the compressor must have a proper ground. The post switch pilot light will help you not leaving the compressor on un attended. There are no stupid questions here, so ask, and safety first.

In my shop I have all the outlets wired to a disconnect. The disconnect is inconveniently high on the wall by the door, so that grand kids cannot easily access it. When I am done for the day the disconnect gets opened. This way little fingers can't fire up the machinery and hurt themselves. I don't generally leave my grand kids unattended, but kids are kids.

Didn't it come with a pressure switch with an side lever switch? like in pic. Better ones do.[color:#33FF33][/color]