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Anyone out there have a set of reproduction hemi exhaust manifolds? I have read that there are a couple of companies making them. Who's are the best? Any fitment issues on E bodys? Any help appreciated.
a hole or 2... and there was a radius I had to cut down for a bolt/washer to seat flat. Also, at the outlets where the headpipes mount were not the smoothest surfaces. In fact, there were good sized ridges where it looked like the mold halves came together. Maybe YO sold me "seconds" or rejects. As far as fitting in the car, no issues.
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I had a little trouble with mine. Bought from YO a few years back. Had to elongate
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I was out at the charlotte autofair in may and one old boy had a set from YO, dirty, rusty, laying in the wet grass. 'Wanted $800 for them. 'Think I insulted him when I offered $500. I ended up buying a set new in the box for $550, plus $30 shipping from a guy on ebay. They're bare. No heat riser, but I didn't want one anyway. He did include a block off plate for the heat tube already installed which was good because I don't want to run heat tubes either. Haven't test fitted yet but they look good. Anybody see those off a 70 hemicuda that brought $5500 on ebay a few weeks ago? 'Wish I had a train car load of that stuff to SELL...
to buy them ... 
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Did you guys install the engine from the top or removing the k member?
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I had problems with a set from Year-One last year on a car. I couldn't get them to seal to the H-pipe. After pulling things apart and looking for the problem I discovered that the repro mainfolds have a much more tapered looking flange. An original manifold has a more rounded edge. The design is set-up to be a ball and socket seal so you don't have to use a gasket. Problem is that the repro manifold edge isn't cast enough to look like the socket it needs to be.... snip...
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Update... I was up at John Arruzza's shop on monday. 'Carried the new manifolds with me and we decided to check the fit on one of my heads. All the holes will need to be slotted .150-.200. Core shift or what? Who knows about the pipe flange. Also Arruzza had bought roller lifters for my engine months ago. He happened to figure out the tie bar on Crower lifters hits the lifter boss on the block before it even touches the lobes. Mopar keeps making that area bigger on the blocks and it's not a world block either. He finally found a set of Isky lifters that will work, but more $. The repro industry definitely needs to get on the ball here.... Whether it's engine blocks, exhaust manifolds, seat foams, or sheet metal there are too many high dollar parts being sold that DON'T fit.