applying AAR stripes ? how much soap to water??

All great points and like Alan said only a couple of drops of soap, I used dish soap. The AAR stripes I had were NOS, so I was pretty concerned about "stickage". The fatter stickers will stick but you have to watch the corners of each strobe as they get smaller to almost pinstripe width.

If your not careful you will pull or lift it. Instead of using a hard plastic squeegee (spelling)? I used a soft outside MACTAC squeegee that won't scratch the car. As you squeegee the water will run out the bottom. Let it dry a little, if your using Repops they will stick pretty fast... Peel the "premask" off on a 45 degree angle with the premask close to the body. Basically making a 180 angle from vinyl to premask. Slow and steady will help with bubble and wrinkles.

AAR - Start with Doors, around the handles, then rear quarter, then the most crucially important straight front fender. If this is not straight you will hate thos stickers forever. LOL.

Here's pics of mine in action.

Chris

If it has transfer paper on it you don't want to get it wet. It will make it very difficult to remove. Tape it at the top and then fold it back over, apply the water to the car, pull the backing paper off and squeegy from the top down. If you start at the middle when it's still taped to the car with the backing paper still attached your asking for wrinkles or an alignment issue.

For aar type stripes you can tape the whole thing to the car and then cut between the stripes and do it in sections to make it more managable.

First clean the paint with alcohol or DX330. Then postion the decals with masking tape and apply half at a time. Tape acts as a hinge. You can use the lub as a release agent that will allow the paper to come right off imediatly. Just spray it on top of the paper and it will release it.
I've applied many decals over the years and have always let the decal dry then removed the paper. I watched my painter apply these strips in about 10 mins, paper off rightaway at the show floor.No BS

thanks guys, well ididnt get to them today , got the dash installed and gauges, new gas tanks and some paint work. got to check on my son at boy scout camp tomorrow and see how he's doing..glad i waited some great tips thanks again!!phil

no i havent, but i'm going to learn!!put 2 motors together by myself and one ran 13:40 in the 1/4.ran that motor at 6200 to 6500 till some told me not to run a big block that high! LOL so i think if i lay it out, check my lay out, take my time i just learned something!!

Phil.... slow down. You need a plan. Some of the above advice is pure bovine excrement.
I have striped an AAR, and other mopars.
The soap and water works, but I have had better success with a weak solution of WINDEX (not Glass Plus) By weak I mean about 1 part windex to 2 parts water..in the spray bottle. You WANT it wet, it allows EXACT placement.
Make sure the paint surface is very clean. Any dust nibs in the paint sould have alread been removed. Obviously wax free.
The AAR stripe comes in three pieces per side. You begin with the door. BEFORE you peal off the adhesive backing center the handle opening over the door handle (shown very well by the excellent photos above!) and measure the drop at the front of the door. I am sorry but I don't have the spec but there IS a factory distance from the shoulder door line and the top of the stripe--if you can't get it , then figure out what pleases you and make a reference mark or better yet write the distance down so you can measure as you go. Obviously the front fender stripe BEGINS with your choice of placement here so take that into account. BUT, its possible and desireable to incorporate the door to fender gaps into the stripe so that the actual segment that spans the gap ends up being the same width! Understand that! You will be pleased with the result! The front fender begins where the door ends and proceeds to the front where again there is a factory spec but this distance is really up to personal preference IF you don't use the spec. I prefer the tip to be about equidistant from top fender line to the beltline--do what you like, or factory--I have seen a LOT of variance.
The rear Is the same as the front, again with a fatory spec for the rear of the top edge of the stripe to the rear quarter line, just know what you want BEFORE you peal off the backing and get things wet.
Once you know your desired placement, begin with the door, use a squegee, bondo spreaders work great. Get things wet, it will allow you to move things around a bit. Be gentle. Once satistied with position start squeegeeing out water from the center out (not real critical with an AAR cuz the area of each segment is small) be gentle till you're sure its not moving anymore and then using increasing firmness. The whole time you are doing this the cover/facing paper is still on the stipe of course. Again...door first...THEN the fenders.
When you are done, (you're not DONE of course) LET IT DRY overnight. I suppose it temps are high and you're on a schedule you could do it later the same day, but overnight is good. THEN carefully peal off the facing paper. There should be NO lifting. MAke sure edges at the door are wrapped nicely. Admire your work. Be proud. Looks freakin nice doesn't it?