72 Challenger Saga

I have been trying to work around the bent frame in my 72 Challenger and determined to bite the bullet and replace it myself. I have been building a frame jig to replace the bent frame member with a new AMD front frame part. I got to the point of setting the posts when the NEW!!!! laser level I bought took a crap on me. Good news is that Amazon is refunding me the money and I am buying a different one with a good warranty. So hopefully it will last. Here are some pictures of the jig being fabricated and set up.

Maybe a dumb question. I have seen a couple of these jigs and wondered how do you get the car up on to them?
CAMRacing on Youtube has a similar one for the Charger he is building, but he had pretty much just a partial shell. No idea how he will get it off when he is done.

My son has a lift in his shop next door.

I need to do the same for a Challenger I have. What are the specs on your jig? Also I see you said you are going to put it on the jig via a lift next door. How are you going to move it back to your shop?

nice work on the frame jig !
i made a similar setup when i designed and built the chassis for my '33 dodge "humpback" delivery.
to make the jig moveable, i used a set of 7" casters with solid tires i had laying around.
if a person is considering moving something like this around on a lumpy shop floor, or outside [like to put on a truck or trailer], the bigger the casters are, the better.

I built one from scratch for my volare. The car's still hanging from it

There's a company called 521 Restorations that has a blog on how to build these frame tables. They used a B-Body in the article, but perhaps one can get some tips on how to build this...
https://521restorations.com/blog/6670-b-body-frame-jig/

It's 16'-6" long x 40" wide. The square tubing is 2"x2" with 2-1/2" for the cross over mounts and uprights with a slot to allow the 2"x2" to fit inside. Heat was the main problem so I would suggest you use 1/4" wall tubing to reduce its affect as I used 1/8" wall tubing. I used a laser level to align everything with a few shims. I haven't put the wheels on it yet that are 6" rubber covered steel wheel casters that I will use to wheel it around. The corners and middle have levelling 3/4" all thread that can be screwed with a wrench to level. I made it to sell it when I am done with it because I only needed it to replace a bent front frame member. It is adjustable up and down and the cross supports will slide back and forth which can be set by tapping holes to be screwed into the main frame rails.

Is a '72 Challenger 318 K Frame the same for a 340? I may have a bent one that I used to swap a 440 into the car and I have a 318 one available to use.

Each engine size family has it 's own k-frame and motor mounts is generally the way the cars came so whatever k-frame fits a 318 should also fit a 340 or 360 as well.

Thanks. That's what I thought. I have the Schumacher swap to 440 mounts so I should be okay.

V8 K frame is a V8 K frame in an E body......318 to 440. Hemi had its own K frame.

Thanks! I was able to determine my K frame is good. I had a spare from a parts car that had a 318 in it was why I was asking.

Finally after fabricating the jig, I am able to get back on the car to remove the bent frame member, inner fender and shock tower. I had installed a USCT frame strengthening kit to the bent member which I now have to adjust for the straight member going in.

All the measuring paid off. It fit on the jig perfectly.

good job on the jig fabrication !

Starting to install new metal. I had to remove the old USCT inner fender brace to install the sheet metal. I have the newer version of it to fit next.

Installing the new USCT inner fender strengthening kit.