Painting wheels

Here's what I bought, please see pic.
I thought I would ask if anyone has used this brand before.

Here's how I hope to proceed:

Sandblast wheels and blow dry with air nozzle, shouldn't need to degrease.

Two coats 2K primer, second coat about 20 minutes after first coat. Then wait 20 minutes more for first color coat.

Then one or two color coats, this paint is 1K.

Now I want at least two coats of clear, but not sure how long I should wait, after shooting the color, to shoot the clear.

I had the color custom mixed F8 green, yes custom color in a spray can. I know it may not PERFECTLY match the car
when I paint it 100 years from now, but for this deal it will be fine.

Does my procedure look reasonable ? (I'm no painter !)

I used that brand of paint in a stock off the shelf black on an air cleaner. I liked it and it does spray well. The nozzle head is adjustable I think? Read something about that after I used the paint.

Best thing to do on steel wheels is to make sure the seam/joint between the center and the outer hoop is 100% rust free and spotless as this is where the rust will start. I take primer on a very small art store paint brush and put it down into the seam to get full coverage. Then I like to take a little of the paint to be used and also brush it down into the seam with the same tiny brush and let it dry before spraying the paint from the can over the wheel. You just want some primer and paint way back at the start of the seam to seal it off. Sandblasting media typically won't get all the way down into the seams so you may have to work the seams by hand with some rough grit paper to find clean bare steel.

Also depending on how smooth you want the wheels to be you can put the primer down and let it dry and then go back over it with some 600 and knock down any orange peel before painting. If you break thru you can always add a little more primer to cover any bare steel back up. The wheel surface may be textured from media blasting and the primer coat will be slightly orange peely straight out of the can so a little time spend working the primer down flat gives the paint layer a better chance of being smooth.

I would still use a "prep" to get rid of the fine dust/grit from the sand blasting and compressed air is not always free of contaminates from rust (condensation/humidity) or even oil in the compressor tank. If your compressor has a water separator or is set up properly to spray paint then that would take care of clean, dry air but still the dust and grit from sand blasting will still be there DAMHIK. I would prep them just the same way as if you were painting a body panel.......just me though.

I've painted enough to know and I think that most professional painters will tell you that prep is the most important part of the job. I'm probably wrong but when what I've painted turns out bad it always seems to be from poor prep.

Mike

Definitely clean them before you paint, Sand blasting will leave dust and small particles of sand. You are using 2K witch is a two part paint. Read the label of how long you should wait before coats.

The "glamour" clears are typically slower to dry & cure than an average clear, but give a smoother finish.
My question would be whether the 2K clear is compatible with a 1k color coat.
The manufacturer should know, might even tell you on the can.

The manufacturer of the 2K (for 2 komponent?) paints is in Germany, according to the label, even though Eastwood pretends they developed and make the paint. Same stuff is also sold by Eastwood through Amazon with less selections than Eastwood direct, and might be slightly cheaper from Amazon if buying only one can. I have used the 2K primers, top coats, and clear coats, and I had some difficulty getting recommendations for drying times and recoat times out of Eastwood, because they don't make it easy to get data sheets. Nevertheless, try Eastwood's web site for data sheets or maybe call them.

In 2018 I bought this same German 2K paint from another seller, automotivetouchup.com, but it appears that Eastwood might now be the exclusive USA distributor. Automotivetouchup.com recommended using the 2K clear coat over 1K color coat, and I did that with excellent results. I touched up a car's paint in order to sell it, so I can't say how well the paint ages.

Out of 10 cans from Eastwood, one 2K epoxy primer ran out of propellant while only 1/3 used, and Eastwood sent me another at no charge. Figure about $31 (2021) including shipping per can and "10 - 16 sq ft" per can. I used 5 cans or $155 on a K-frame and the same on an axle housing. The 5-can, 5-coat system was two 2K epoxy primer coats, one coat of 2K high-build urethane primer to fill pits, and two 2K top coats. Slightly less than 5 cans were needed for each part, so I did have a small steel shop table for the leftovers. See photos for disappeared rust pits through selectively sanding the high-build back down to epoxy primer.

You can use the Google Enhanced Search at the top of this page to find other posts on 2K paint. There is a You Tube video on painting a car frame with 2K.

Even though I have a 60" blast cabinet, rather than blasting my wheels (or K-frame or axle housing), I used Evapo-Rust and paint stripper, followed by cleaning with paint thinner, then brushed on phosphoric acid, followed again by cleaning with paint thinner. You can delay painting a long time if need be - no rust should show up later due to the thinned phosphoric acid coating, but if some does, simply hand scrub it off with a 3M Scotch-Brite pad dipped in phosphoric acid. Any rust will be totally removed, and the part is re-coated with phosphoric acid.

Thank you guys very much.
I bought this stuff from a local NAPA, the kid was friendly but not very knowledgable.
I think I'll make a few phone calls before I dive in.

My go to is Blast, wipe with Laqure Thinner. Then DX570 if small pits!
Once metal is ready, follow up clean with PPG DX330 Wax_Grease {acryi-clean} before the Epoxy.
If filling is needed Poly Based Sandable primer like Evercoat Slick Sand. Sand to #400. Then Paint / Clear.

Yes, the sanding the primer step is how they end up smooth and glossy.

I am going to buy steel wheels and paint to match the Challenger (EV2).
My question, were the inside (meeting the hub) of OEM wheel painted or left black?

From original painted steel wheels I have seen it looks like they painted the whole backside and the center of the hoop of the wheels black and then they painted the outside face with body color. Masking would have taken too much time so there should be body color overspray dusted on the inside hoop part that that tires cover up after they are mounted. Might be some overspray that falls thru the 4 slots in the face that ends up on the hoop inside where the brake drum or rotor sits too.

^^^ Exactly.

The questions are all answered in the technical data sheets for the products purchased.

Google search criteria "spraymax technical data sheet"

Example:

Scroll down and look for "technical information sheets"
https://www.spraymax.com/en-us/products/product/primer-primer-filler/2k-epoxy-primer-1/

Repeat same process for all products. Read and understand the material before jumping in.

They seem aware their products are geared towards non-professionals so the data sheets are better written and more complete than average.

Do not screw around with safety using any of the 2k products: Wear a real respirator approved for organic vapor, not just a dust mask.
Gloves are a good idea as well.

Your overall plan sounds good but as others state, sand tends to get lodged between the center and the rim. Might want to at least pick it out.

Not every one agrees but I spray nothing on bare metal without wax and grease remover. If solvent borne wait 1/2 hour or more for evap.
If Waterborne or something to like Sprayway glass cleaner, a few minutes after wipe off is usually adequate.
*lengthen the time for high humidity conditions

I'd also want a tack cloth........Always tack off before clear, at a bare minimum, to try to avoid visible chunks below the clear. Once something is buried under the clear, it's not going anywhere....
Not everyone would agree.....

Thank you!
Appreciate the responses.